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Front camber

905Shooter

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Im noticing the front wheels look like they have a bit of camber. I recently put 1 inch hub centric spacers in the front and rear which I do think made a difference but i’m still wondering if there’s any way to eliminate that camber or just have the wheels sit more flush with the fenders. Is there any way to adjust that on the factory pp suspension?
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NightmareMoon

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No, you’d need camber plates or maybe crash bolts or wider spacers.

most of us run more aggressive aftermarket wheels.

removing all the camber is bad for handling. Stock camber spec is 1.5, and I wouldn’t go less than that… so more aggressive wheels would be my recommendation.
 

TundraOnKings

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The car handles so much better going more negative camber. I definitely would not do anything less than -1.5 if you care about handling, which is what you should be at stock.
S550 is RWD front heavy V8 car that loves neg camber. I’m -2.7 and want more.
 

boB

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D9E5FAEE-0E2B-42F8-8476-B07AB0CE0AB5.jpeg

Im noticing the front wheels look like they have a bit of camber. I recently put 1 inch hub centric spacers in the front and rear which I do think made a difference but i’m still wondering if there’s any way to eliminate that camber or just have the wheels sit more flush with the fenders. Is there any way to adjust that on the factory pp suspension?
Yes, the service manual shows how to (lightly) modify the struts to adjust camber as well as install "service" bolts to give more adjustment. I did this on one of my cars (not a Mustang but similar front suspension) and it provided about 0.75 degrees more adjustment.
 

Jordan @ Lethal

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From the pics, it looks like your camber is still more or less at its desired stock setting. If your camber was too negative you'd want to go ahead and get yourself adjustable front camber bolts from BMR, Maximum Motorsports etc. Anything beyond the added adjustability of the bolts would require the front camber plates.
 

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boB

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From the pics, it looks like your camber is still more or less at its desired stock setting. If your camber was too negative you'd want to go ahead and get yourself adjustable front camber bolts from BMR, Maximum Motorsports etc. Anything beyond the added adjustability of the bolts would require the front camber plates.
The BMR bolts look like a nice easy way to adjust camber but I am concerned about their strength: the BMR bolts are tightened to 125 lb*ft while the OEM bolts are 184.
 

Jordan @ Lethal

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That's because the BMR bolt's tolerance is a bit less than the stock one which is just a consequence of it being a cam bolt; the bolt is slightly skinnier than the lobe. That being said, I've not heard of someone breaking them. The other option is of course the plates (CB001) which is more quite beefy.
 

boB

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That's because the BMR bolt's tolerance is a bit less than the stock one which is just a consequence of it being a cam bolt; the bolt is slightly skinnier than the lobe. That being said, I've not heard of someone breaking them. The other option is of course the plates (CB001) which is more quite beefy.
I would not be concerned about the bolt breaking (as long as it was not tightened beyond the spec), I would be concerned about the 30% lower clamping force between the strut and knuckle.
 

Jordan @ Lethal

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I would not be concerned about the bolt breaking (as long as it was not tightened beyond the spec), I would be concerned about the 30% lower clamping force between the strut and knuckle.
So far, I've never heard of any issues with anything separating/shifting at all.
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