Free front swaybar mod

[dontlifttoshift]

In regards to this

So I've been thinking about that... I'm not sure if it's really allowed since it's changing the mounting point and it's obviously not in the service manual.

And this

Here's what the rule book says for the street category. I'm not sure if it's breaking the rules or not. I'm guessing if it doesn't say it can be done then it's not allowed. Thoughts...

13.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS
[FONT=Cambria,Cambria][FONT=Cambria,Cambria]A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted. The use of any bushing material is permitted. A bushing may be implemented as a bearing.
B. Substitution, addition, or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Cambria,Cambria][FONT=Cambria,Cambria]C. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accommo[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Cambria,Cambria][FONT=Cambria,Cambria]date anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.
[/FONT][/FONT]

You are only allowed to modify one bar. So if you mod the front bar, you can not do anything to the rear.

Loop holes are just this, if it does not say you cant do it then it is allowed. :shrug:
Stock bar, stock mounts, no change other then pivot point.

That is actually backwards. If it doesn't say you _can_ make a modification then you _can not_ make a modification. Even though the bar is in the factory location with factory mounts, it is no longer a stock bar. That is perfectly legal if you run a factory, unaltered rear bar. If you mod the rear bar as well, one of them is illegal.

I would like to drill the hole and run it on the stiffer setting for other, non-SCCA events with an uber adjustable rear bar but I think even with the end links in the factory location, one could throw paper on the modded front bar.

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[Dspec_S550]

are the parts on the ecoboost the same?

 

[Niz55]

Just tried to do this and I could not rotate the damn sway bar at all. End links were out on both side and sway bar bracket was loosend. I could not rotate it at all.

So I just cleaned my calipers.lol

 

[stang9779]

Just tried to do this and I could not rotate the damn sway bar at all. End links were out on both side and sway bar bracket was loosend. I could not rotate it at all.

So I just cleaned my calipers.lol

Rotate? I thought all you had to do was drill a whole and move the end link.

 

[Niz55]

Rotate? I thought all you had to do was drill a whole and move the end link.

You have to,rotate it in order to have room to drill it. You can't drill because the brake caliper,,rotors and other suspension parts are front of the sway bar.

 

[Kcode]

Just remove the bar first.

Ecoboost Prem PP convertible.

Finished up this mod recently by removing bar completely and then drilling holes with drill press. No way I could rotate sway bar into position to enable drill to fit. Removed sway bar brackets from above with a couple of extensions on ratchet.

Removed passenger side wheel to remove bar once all disconnected (came out real easy just have to fiddle a bit). Scribed line with vernier caliper 1 1/2 inches from edge of stock hole to place center line of new hole 1 3/4 inches from old position. Reassembled everything, relocating end links and replacing the bar bushings with Energy suspension bushings part # 9.5166G 32mm greasable pieces (purchased from Amazon for 22 dollars delivered, tax in).

I had previously installed the Eibach rear 25 mm rear sway bar with end links set in middle position.

I will be adding BMR bits in near future but so far overall balance is very good, understeer has been tamed and powering out of corners feels a lot more planted.

Good, basically free mod and it works. My ride is making me smile more and larger every day.

PS I've also have Ford Racing tower bar and Steeds K brace installed already.

 

[Dspec_S550]

Thanks Kcode, for this writeup.

I have a base ecoboost, I hope my front bar is the same!

 

[Kcode]

All 550's have 32mm front antisway bars

I believe all models have 32mm front bars stock. The rears change based on model and engine. Even though I have a Turbo Prem PP because I have the convertible the rear bar is tiny at 20mm.

You probably have a similiar rear bar. I wouldn't do the front bar mod without doing the rear or planning the rear upgrade. The car steering might feel a little more direct at sane speeds but will push more then stock if driven hard.

I'm very satisfied with the combo and saved some money. Now, wheres UPS with my BMR vertical links, rear toe links, adjustable anti swaybar links and Viking shocks. Mmmmmm suspension mods.

 

[Dspec_S550]

I am doing exactly that, BMR rear, and the drill the front then..

I do not enjoy understeer... ;)

 

[Kcode]

Understeer bad, oversteer good!

To a degree at least.

I come from the land of front wheel drive. Daily drivers, Autocross weapons. Time attack competitions, door to door road racing and ice racing - mostly in Hondas and Nissans. It's neat to go back to my rear wheel drive roots.

You will love your car even more with the suspension buttoned down. Assuming you have reasonable summer rubber 1 g is well with in range and dynamics will feel good doing it.

Good luck with your mods. Post me when you get it done I would like to hear your result.

 

[IvanCRF]

I just finished drilling both 1/2'' holes in my front swaybar like the OP. I used a center punch for making the pilot hole and the little drill bits I had went through like butter and then got progressively harder. This is the hardest metal I have ever drilled and I thought AK trunnions were hard. The swaybar is very thick too. I used lots of WD40. I went through one old set of titanium drill bits and then had to go to the store to get another set to finish the passenger side. I got halfway through the driver's side and my Dewalt titanium bits got dull again so I had to get another set of Dewalt bits to barely finish the job. I don't think I'll get Dewalt titanium bits again. Somehow it took me 10 hours to drill two holes. I watched the CJ video of the CJ dude installing a brand new front swaybar in a matter of moments... After drilling, I had to file down a lot of burrs and because of this, I put down some Rustoleum to help prevent rusting. I also painted the previous mounting points. I put the top of both links into their new position easily and am waiting for the paint to dry to get the bottom bolted up. I noticed the top link is much closer to the speed sensor line so I'll re-evaluate it when everything is bolted up. I feel worn out and my drill got hot as hell too. I look forward to posting my noob impressions.

For the poster that said you could not rotate the swaybar, you probably have one of the links still bolted because you can rotate it with a pinky when it is unbolted at the links. You need to unbolt both links from the swaybar for it to rotate to where you can drill it.

Thank you, OP!

 

[Niz55]

I just finished drilling both 1/2'' holes in my front swaybar like the OP. I used a center punch for making the pilot hole and the little drill bits I had went through like butter and then got progressively harder. This is the hardest metal I have ever drilled and I thought AK trunnions were hard. The swaybar is very thick too. I used lots of WD40. I went through one old set of titanium drill bits and then had to go to the store to get another set to finish the passenger side. I got halfway through the driver's side and my Dewalt titanium bits got dull again so I had to get another set of Dewalt bits to barely finish the job. I don't think I'll get Dewalt titanium bits again. Somehow it took me 10 hours to drill two holes. I watched the CJ video of the CJ dude installing a brand new front swaybar in a matter of moments... After drilling, I had to file down a lot of burrs and because of this, I put down some Rustoleum to help prevent rusting. I also painted the previous mounting points. I put the top of both links into their new position easily and am waiting for the paint to dry to get the bottom bolted up. I noticed the top link is much closer to the steeing line so I'll re-evaluate it when everything is bolted up. I feel worn out and my drill got hot as hell too. I look forward to posting my noob impressions.

For the poster that said you could not rotate the swaybar, you probably have one of the links still bolted because you can rotate it with a pinky when it is unbolted at the links. You need to unbolt both links from the swaybar for it to rotate to where you can drill it.

Thank you, OP!

Should of bought brand new Steeda bars with all that money you spent on the drill bits.:lol:

Do not re mount the sway bar position on the strut closer to the front. No point of this mod If you are going to go in the same position.

 

[IvanCRF]

Should of bought brand new Steeda bars with all that money you spent on the drill bits.:lol:

Do not re mount the sway bar position on the strut closer to the front. No point of this mod If you are going to go in the same position.

I moved the top of the link to the mount which is closer to the front of the car. I hope I am doing this correctly. Slapping in a Steeda one would have saved me about 9 hours of my life and lots of frustration of drilling with crappy bits.
Pics of drillbit hell:

 

[Ryan1112]

I moved the top of the link to the mount which is closer to the front of the car. I hope I am doing this correctly. Slapping in a Steeda one would have saved me about 9 hours of my life and lots of frustration of drilling with crappy bits.

You did the right thing moving the link to the other hole on the strut. So after all that hell was it worth it?

 

[Niz55]

Like I said, no point of this mod if you are moving the endkink closer to the sway bar.

But is your car do what you like

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