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Ford Racing ProCal Tune

Chef jpd

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You realize tuners tell you to go WOT in order to data log right? I didn't say the tune caused my engine to blow. But it can't be ruled out and making part of the deal WOT runs can lead lead to issues.

I've done datalog tunes with 5 different tuners on 2 different cars.
Your rationale is stupid at the least and absurd at best.
You are a saying that WOT can cause engine failure.
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marjen

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Yes I am. Look, you have no interest in this tune so not sure why you are even in this thread.
 

Chef jpd

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Yes I am. Look, you have no interest in this tune so not sure why you are even in this thread.
WOT datalogging causes engine failure........ I'm out, This is perhaps the most absurd statement ever on this forum.
 
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TheLion

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Does anyone have even the slightest inkling of how thoroughly an engine is tested during development?

Take a look at this (this isn't even R&D development, it was more or less a PR stunt to show how rugged the Ecboost V6 is): http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2011/01/what-the-inside-of-a-torture-tested-ecoboost-v-6-looks-like.html

During development Livernois dynoed their cars in 5th gear from just 2100 rpm on average. They have done 5th gear pulls from as low as just 1500 RPM!

It's not hard to understand that the Throttle Plate, Boost, Fueling, Temperature, Valve timing and ignition timing are ALL controlled by the PCM. Doesn't matter if you push the pedal down to the floor, the ECU should not allow any unsafe conditions despite the "throttle demand" from the driver. This is not like the 90's where throttle plates were still physically controlled by the driver via cable, so the driver could open the throttle plate all the way.

The Ecoboost F-150's can tow over 10,000 lbs, at 65 on the highway they are at just 2,000 rpm. The truck itself weights over 6,000 lbs. Ford developed the Ecboost V6, the Ecoboost 1.6L, 2.0L, 2.3L and 2.7L engines. While each is a little different I'd imagine they all undergo some fairly thorough testing. Any production engine is designed to be able to function reliably at wide open throttle, that's a normal part of engine operation, especially in performance cars...

The big issue I take with "shop tunes" is that they are not thoroughly tested. They do not test over temperature and having the user make some runs and then adjusting is playing with fire.

Shop tunes are best suited for actual track cars that don't need to operate over a variety of altitudes, extreme temperatures, fuel quality variations, full passenger loads etc. For that you need to rely on the extensive R&D of Ford, Ford Performance, Livernois and Roush etc. otherwise your adding a significant amount of risk which we've seen bite quite a few people now. There are simply too many variables which can change with these dynamic conditions and cause unforeseen issues...and issue they do cause!

Getting back to the point of this entire thread, which I started mind you, is the Ford Performance tune. If your not interested in using it, then don't F***ing post on this thread! Not sure why that's so hard for some to get through their thick skulls and into their infinitesimally small brains...:frusty:. Seriously, your killin' me Smalls!
 

Chef jpd

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WOW, we have managed to get the Lion to step out of his analytical bubble.
End of Days people. Run to your bomb shelters and prepare for the apocalypse

JK lion, you are appreciated.
 

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TheLion

TheLion

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WOW, we have managed to get the Lion to step out of his analytical bubble.
End of Days people. Run to our bomb shelters and prepare for the apocalypse

JK lion, you are appreciated.
I am known to have emotions from time to time...;).
 

tittermary

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Does anyone have even the slightest inkling of how thoroughly an engine is tested during development?

Take a look at this (this isn't even R&D development, it was more or less a PR stunt to show how rugged the Ecboost V6 is): http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2011/01/what-the-inside-of-a-torture-tested-ecoboost-v-6-looks-like.html

During development Livernois dynoed their cars in 5th gear from just 2100 rpm on average. They have done 5th gear pulls from as low as just 1500 RPM!

It's not hard to understand that the Throttle Plate, Boost, Fueling, Temperature, Valve timing and ignition timing are ALL controlled by the PCM. Doesn't matter if you push the pedal down to the floor, the ECU should not allow any unsafe conditions despite the "throttle demand" from the driver. This is not like the 90's where throttle plates were still physically controlled by the driver via cable, so the driver could open the throttle plate all the way.

The Ecoboost F-150's can tow over 10,000 lbs, at 65 on the highway they are at just 2,000 rpm. The truck itself weights over 6,000 lbs. Ford developed the Ecboost V6, the Ecoboost 1.6L, 2.0L, 2.3L and 2.7L engines. While each is a little different I'd imagine they all undergo some fairly thorough testing. Any production engine is designed to be able to function reliably at wide open throttle, that's a normal part of engine operation, especially in performance cars...

The big issue I take with "shop tunes" is that they are not thoroughly tested. They do not test over temperature and having the user make some runs and then adjusting is playing with fire.

Shop tunes are best suited for actual track cars that don't need to operate over a variety of altitudes, extreme temperatures, fuel quality variations, full passenger loads etc. For that you need to rely on the extensive R&D of Ford, Ford Performance, Livernois and Roush etc. otherwise your adding a significant amount of risk which we've seen bit quite a few people now.

Getting back to the point of this entire thread, which I started mind you, is the Ford Performance tune. If your not interested in using it, then don't F***ing post on this thread! Not sure why that's so hard for some to get through their thick skulls and into their infinitesimally small brains...:frusty:. Seriously, your killin' me Smalls!

very familiar do this type of testing all the time, funny how with all this testing they missed the pcv (oil seprater issue) or the burnt valve issue with the 6.7 or the spark plug issue with the 5.4 ( both versions) or... i can go on and on my point is the factory oems are not as perfect as you seem to think. At the end of the day whether the oem or cobb its just people trying to do a good job, no one is perfect and mistakes and things happen.

or for the conspiracy theory people maybe some of these engineering defects were discovered but allowed to make it into production because the financial impact to fix was more then the warranty liability.. -:) gm 4l60 sunshell issue for example ..... or the phaser issue on the ford vvt engines compounded by the aluminum backing plate on the oil pump

and ill save the craziest one for last the F-150 condensate issue in the IC. I mean how the hell could you miss that if your testing was up to snuff.....

don't even get me started on the Chrysler's lol
 
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Chef jpd

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Errrrrr.......
Microsoft........
 

jtmat

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Im just interested in how this tune performs.all the trolling can stop please.lets hear from the ones who have the tune.so we can make a informed decision.This is probably not the most powerful tune,but most likely the safest.im not trying to get in the 12s.,so this tune maybe something im intrested in
[MENTION=20117]4bangin[/MENTION]

I've posted a couple of pages back on my experiences (in fair detail).... more than likely will move all of them to my build thread to get them out of this mess....

I'm taking another trip next week and will document that as well...

I'd say it is fairly simple....

FP is not the tune for you if you plan to tune heavily in the future and are out of warranty.

If you do want to tune heavily in the future, but want to keep your remaining warranty, this is a nice option.

If you have an auto, it is great, if not awesome. I love the way my auto drives. I can drive in "d" now.

I think the city mpg is still my only concern (although unfounded... I've just not tested it a lot in the city). My hwy mpg is a bit higher since I can drive in d.

Oh, you do get more of the "turbo" sound... I did not like it at first... but it sounds cool to me now.

The sound symposium is turned off by default when you get this tune.

Oddly, it takes a couple of miles for the tune to truly kick in... (reports range from 30 to 200 miles -- I did not buy the 200 mile report, but if that was an experience, so be it)

Last I looked levittownford has the cheapest cost around $530 shipped.... could be cheaper someplace else by now, dunno.... or maybe someone got one off ebay, can't remember. Installs at dealers seem to be going from 150 to 300 dollars. Mine was 220.

There are reports of ASE doing it... not sure if anyone actually went that route... some even suggested an ase simply signing off on the work you did to save money. If you can make that work, go for it. Personally I'm trying to build a relationship with my dealer since I'm new to Ford.

I learned real quick that dealerships have a lot of say in what they take on... had one not do work on my car because I put on mufflers and after market rear speakers. I'm like yea but my interior dash is rattling... it was crazy. Next dealer did not have an issue.

Warranty is still 3/36 and you keep the 5/60 unless tune related...

My 0-60 went from 6.1 to 5.6... not too bad for a vert. I could get it lower by working on my launch (and new tires)... but I figure why? 5.6 is good enough for me.

Think that is a summery of where we are right now.

Bottom line is that people seem to like it after driving for at least 30 miles. It is a much better driving car now.... very predictable power... very smooth.
 
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"The sound symposium is turned off by default when you get this tune"

um,why did they do that?I don't want my little engine base turned off.
 

GJarrett

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I asked FP this very question and was told that the new air inlet that is part of the CAI "does not have the provision for it". So evidently the stock air inlet provides the input for the sound symposer; once it is removed and replaced with the CAI the sound symposer won't work.
 

GJarrett

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Okay I'm a tune newbie and need some information. I just received my tune. Per suggesions on this thread and also from FP, I intend to save time at the dealership that will be installing it on my Mustang by installing it on my own laptop beforehand (so that I can keep it in case it is needed for the future), and then taking it to the dealer next week for the ASE tech to install it on the Mustang.

Last night I followed the very limited instructions included with the kit, registered at FP with my authorization code, and downloaded the file onto my laptop. However it looks to me like what was downloaded was an "empty" ProCal program with no files or tune or whatever makes it complete (see attached photo).

My question: is this all that I need to do - or do I still need to connect the port module included in the kit and install the tune from that onto the ProCal software that is now on my laptop to get it ready for the tech. If I need to do more, please walk me through how to do that.

Thanks :)
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jtmat

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Okay I'm a tune newbie and need some information. I just received my tune. Per suggesions on this thread and also from FP, I intend to save time at the dealership that will be installing it on my Mustang by installing it on my own laptop beforehand (so that I can keep it in case it is needed for the future), and then taking it to the dealer next week for the ASE tech to install it on the Mustang.

Last night I followed the very limited instructions included with the kit, registered at FP with my authorization code, and downloaded the file onto my laptop. However it looks to me like what was downloaded was an "empty" ProCal program with no files or tune or whatever makes it complete (see attached photo).

My question: is this all that I need to do - or do I still need to connect the port module included in the kit and install the tune from that onto the ProCal software that is now on my laptop to get it ready for the tech. If I need to do more, please walk me through how to do that.

Thanks :)
I recommended at least creating the FP account and providing the username and password to the dealer (change the password later). That is about the only thing that could have helped in my particular situation.

Far as downloading it, not sure who recommended that... I'd probably ask the dealer on that one. Not saying the recommendation is right or wrong...
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