Ford Oasis Reports

[Agent_S550]

Hey Agent,

Quick question. I just got a 2017 GT Premium with PP last month. It has 2k miles on it. It seems everytime it is hot outside (meaning hot inside as well), and I begin to leave work and crank the a/c on, within the first few minutes I hear a really loud cracking noise one time. It never does it again after that. Sounds exactly like as if a rock was hitting a windshield. Not sure if this is some sort of expanding and contracting deal because of the heat and then turning on the a/c or what.

Thanks man!
-Chris

Unfortunately that is a dash rattle/pop. Mine will crack every once in a while with temperature change. Really the only way to fix this is to loosen up the dash, let the plastic relax and then tighten it back down in sequence. It was probably installed in a bind and thus reacts to temperature without space to do so.

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[Hashbrownn]

Sounds eerily like a driveshaft problem. Or possibly a subframe alignment issue.

Side note for you, 9k is wayyyyy to long to go on an oil change. Especially on a Coyote.

I was told every 10k for oil change by our service manager.
How often should I get the oil changed on the 5.0?
My oil life meter/gauge says I'm still OK. Should I not go by that?

 

[tamadrummer1120]

Unfortunately that is a dash rattle/pop. Mine will crack every once in a while with temperature change. Really the only way to fix this is to loosen up the dash, let the plastic relax and then tighten it back down in sequence. It was probably installed in a bind and thus reacts to temperature without space to do so.

And based off of my previous experiences with dashes, I assume it is not easy at all to loosen all of the bolts.

 

[Agent_S550]

I was told every 10k for oil change by our service manager.
How often should I get the oil changed on the 5.0?
My oil life meter/gauge says I'm still OK. Should I not go by that?

My rule of thumb for most of my customers was 5k on a car you really love, 7k on a car you just drive and maintain. Approaching 10k ends up putting the car in the spot where the oil begins to break down, gets dirty, and then the motor stays dirty for the rest of its life.

My Focus ST ran the same time frame for oil changes. It was a dark amber/brown all the time. At the time I only did 7-10k mile oil changes. Started doing 5k after that. Helped the motor stay cleaner. Being that you're obviously an enthusiast, stick with 5k just to keep her cleaner longer

 

[tamadrummer1120]

My rule of thumb for most of my customers was 5k on a car you really love, 7k on a car you just drive and maintain. Approaching 10k ends up putting the car in the spot where the oil begins to break down, gets dirty, and then the motor stays dirty for the rest of its life.

My Focus ST ran the same time frame for oil changes. It was a dark amber/brown all the time. At the time I only did 7-10k mile oil changes. Started doing 5k after that. Helped the motor stay cleaner. Being that you're obviously an enthusiast, stick with 5k just to keep her cleaner longer

Unless you are on a extended oil life synthetic but maintain the proper filter replacement timeframe.

For example on my last vehicle, 07 Honda S2000, I ran Amsoil signature series from 40K miles when I bought it until 115K when I sold it. I routinely performed valve adjustments on that vehicle and the cylinder head components (cams, rockers, etc) were always extremely clean and did not even begin to have a brown tint to them. I did 20-25k miles, as specified by amsoil, but changed the filter every 7-8k as the car called out on its oil change system. I probably won't go that long on the 5.0, but this discussion entirely depends on the oil being used. Amsoil is at the top of the game, which is why I became a dealer for them. :cheers:

 

[Agent_S550]

Unless you are on a extended oil life synthetic but maintain the proper filter replacement timeframe.

For example on my last vehicle, 07 Honda S2000, I ran Amsoil signature series from 40K miles when I bought it until 115K when I sold it. I routinely performed valve adjustments on that vehicle and the cylinder head components (cams, rockers, etc) were always extremely clean and did not even begin to have a brown tint to them. I did 20-25k miles, as specified by amsoil, but changed the filter every 7-8k as the car called out on its oil change system. I probably won't go that long on the 5.0, but this discussion entirely depends on the oil being used. Amsoil is at the top of the game, which is why I became a dealer for them. :cheers:

Thats a very specific circumstance with a very ungeneric oil lol. Amsoil makes some very good products. Not many companies have that kind of quality. I would agree on the filter change if you ran an oil like that.

Also, Tama I overlooked that one post on accident. I apologize. These dashes aren't particularly easy to mess with. However they are like all other modular dashes where they get installed in assembly. It may behoove you to loosen the perimeter bolts up by the dash and the two larger 1/2" head ones on the inside of the door jam, wiggle the dash a bunch and then tighten it down slowly moving from the middle bolts outward. Beyond that I would be marching it down to the dealership and tell them they need to do it. Just don't expect a rattle/squeak/pop diagnostic to go swiftly. It was always a pain when I dealt with them.

 

[tamadrummer1120]

Thats a very specific circumstance with a very ungeneric oil lol. Amsoil makes some very good products. Not many companies have that kind of quality. I would agree on the filter change if you ran an oil like that.

Also, Tama I overlooked that one post on accident. I apologize. These dashes aren't particularly easy to mess with. However they are like all other modular dashes where they get installed in assembly. It may behoove you to loosen the perimeter bolts up by the dash and the two larger 1/2" head ones on the inside of the door jam, wiggle the dash a bunch and then tighten it down slowly moving from the middle bolts outward. Beyond that I would be marching it down to the dealership and tell them they need to do it. Just don't expect a rattle/squeak/pop diagnostic to go swiftly. It was always a pain when I dealt with them.

Ugh. I used to be a ase certified tech at Honda, so you'd think I would be okay with them doing this.....but im not. I hate anyone else touching my vehicle so much that I always take the wheels off my cars and drive them to a tire shop to get new tires put on so they don't improperly torque the lugnuts.

 

[Agent_S550]

Ugh. I used to be a ase certified tech at Honda, so you'd think I would be okay with them doing this.....but im not. I hate anyone else touching my vehicle so much that I always take the wheels off my cars and drive them to a tire shop to get new tires put on so they don't improperly torque the lugnuts.

Haha we are two birds of the same feather. I'm no different. The biggest issue is once interior is touched its almost impossible to get it back 100% like it was. If it was my car, I'd go through the pain of doing it myself. I even have very good friends at Ford. But I want it done right and patiently so I do everything myself.

 

[tamadrummer1120]

Haha we are two birds of the same feather. I'm no different. The biggest issue is once interior is touched its almost impossible to get it back 100% like it was. If it was my car, I'd go through the pain of doing it myself. I even have very good friends at Ford. But I want it done right and patiently so I do everything myself.

Based on alldata this looks to be like a total PITA. Awesome.
:frusty:

 

[Fenix]

Any notes about a rattle in the driver door panel? I suspect something is not properly installed inside. It sounds like a captured washer on a bolt that wasn't tightened all the way.

What about wrinkles in leather seat covers? My passenger side bolster has about a 1/4" gap between the cushion and cover. It looks pretty bad.

Headlight misalignment? The back edge on the drivers side is proud of the bumper and fender. Passenger side is below flush about 1/8".

 

[Agent_S550]

Based on alldata this looks to be like a total PITA. Awesome.
:frusty:

Shoot me a PM with your email. I'll send you the Ford Workshop manual procedure.

 

[Agent_S550]

Any notes about a rattle in the driver door panel? I suspect something is not properly installed inside. It sounds like a captured washer on a bolt that wasn't tightened all the way.

What about wrinkles in leather seat covers? My passenger side bolster has about a 1/4" gap between the cushion and cover. It looks pretty bad.

Headlight misalignment? The back edge on the drivers side is proud of the bumper and fender. Passenger side is below flush about 1/8".

The door pockets on the door panels are extremely deep. 9/10 times metallic rattle is something wayyyy in the end at the back jingling. But ultimately if its not, I would gamble on it being the tweeter. Seems to be a recurring issue that whoever installed those didn't tighten them down.

Seat cover is covered under bumper to bumper. I'd get them to replace it. I've replaced tons of covers under warranty for improper fitment. They will have to take pictures and fire them off to Ford. Not a big deal.

Headlight misalignment is a sore subject because Ford does not have a relevant procedure to cure this that is achievable by any dealer. In that same mindset, I don't even remember seeing a warranty labor operation that would let a dealer bill that to Ford. If they can't bill ford, they will bill you. So be prepared. Really it's not hard to adjust. Use your garage door. Drink a beer. Take your time. It's only a few screws that adjust it all

 

[Fenix]

The door pockets on the door panels are extremely deep. 9/10 times metallic rattle is something wayyyy in the end at the back jingling. But ultimately if its not, I would gamble on it being the tweeter. Seems to be a recurring issue that whoever installed those didn't tighten them down.

Seat cover is covered under bumper to bumper. I'd get them to replace it. I've replaced tons of covers under warranty for improper fitment. They will have to take pictures and fire them off to Ford. Not a big deal.

Headlight misalignment is a sore subject because Ford does not have a relevant procedure to cure this that is achievable by any dealer. In that same mindset, I don't even remember seeing a warranty labor operation that would let a dealer bill that to Ford. If they can't bill ford, they will bill you. So be prepared. Really it's not hard to adjust. Use your garage door. Drink a beer. Take your time. It's only a few screws that adjust it all

Thanks for the info!

Is the headlight assembly able to be loosened and adjusted without removing the bumper? The lighting pattern is fine, the driver side headlight is just so far to the outside side the whole assembly sticks out farther than the fender does.

 

[Wally]

Agent, thanks for helping us out. My question is about the ventilated/ cooled seats not working on the seat back area. The butt cushions work fine. I'm aware of a TSB for it but not sure if it can actually be fixed by dealers based on forum posts. Thanks again.

 

[vintage1]

Agent S550, thanks for all this great information....

On the rear window misalignment issue, glass is off by about 1/8" - not too bad. Some are 1/4". Levelling the glass is one thing but the 3rd brake light is also not completely level with the sheet metal. Both would have to be adjusted really to make it right or to get it close to level the 3rd brake light could be adjusted only by bringing it up marginally on the passenger side. Is this an easy adjustment? Other options are a rear window spoiler to hide everything or just leave it! Am I opening up a can of worms here...some things are better left untouched - if left too it's original out of the factory!

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