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Agent_S550

Agent_S550

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Yes, this has been a big issue. I brought this up with my car back in early 2015. Mine was really bad and very noticeable when compared to the 3rd brake light. I believe I have a picture floating around here somewhere. Mine was an early 2015 (GT Premium) purchased in Feb 2015. I can't believe this issue is still happening with 2017 models (if that's the case). Hell, I can't believe it was an issue on 2016 models.



I was 'this' close to taking mine to a dealer last year to get it fixed. Luckily, I got rear ended instead! It was relatively minor but turned into a big, expensive repair (I have a thread on this too). Long story short, as part of the normal painting/blending process, they actually pulled the fastback glass and reset it. Looks great now.

So to answer your question, yes, the glass can be reused. The body shop owner (kind of a friend of mine) was explaining how new cars are using this method for glass installation. It's some kind of new sealant/caulk. That's why the front windshield and fastback glass both have that "floating" effect. There's no weather-stripping around them so once the glass is removed, they just have to remove the old sealant and than put new stuff down the right away (i.e. - the EXACT opposite way that some Ford employee has been doing it for going on 3 years!)
This man is right on the money. It takes lifting the old glass out after cutting the sealant out, cleaning and prepping, then re-gluing the glass back in. Not for the faint of heart. Most dealerships won't do it themselves. They contract out to glass shops that are certified in Ford warranty work (if its a warranty repair).

If you're at all familiar with 3m weatherstrip adhesive, you know exactly what they use at Ford when the build the cars. I've used a tube on a few project cars of mine. Lets just say it's incredibly sticky and works almost too well. I bet they put the ever so smallest bead around the perimeter before they set the glass in and it thins as it comes around to the lower side.
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I wish my service adviser was half as helpful/knowledgeable. I think we all can appreciate your time.
 

Moi16gt

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Ever since i got my car i sometimes feel a small grind when going into 3rd gear at slow speeds. Is this normal?
 

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Any heavy hitters regarding known 5.0 clutch problems, friction plate material, and clutch failures?
 

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The 15's (which it appears is your year) are plagued with dash rattles. Had quite a few run through my shop. It was the standard general procedure that we used. I can get you fords SSM if you if you'd like but it's not mustang specific. I'd be curious to see if your panels were warped from installation at the factory
What is the "SSM"? Any help on chasing down the rattles in the 15 and how best to silence them would be greatly appreciated. A few that I can think of are;

one right at the small speaker at the front of the driver's side door panel. It's a high pitch, if I press right around the speaker it stops.

One right about where the microphone is in the headliner rear center in my ecoboost.

One in the lower center dash.
 

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Agent_S550

Agent_S550

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I had the same feel of mine coming from an 07 gt.

I now have a gt premium, pp, 3.73 torsen, manual. At 1k miles it didnt feel too fast. At 1.8k it seems to be openining up but still not the quickest. Do i have big drivetrain loss or is it the power is put down much smoother than the old cars the "butt dyno" cant calibrate right?

Also ive been having an issue with my backup camera lines missing. The rear decklid was replaced and they are missing, tried disconnecting the battery then driving around but no luck. I think at this point i have to bring it into the dealer to get recalibrated but if there is anything i can try before that i would be immensely grateful.
Send me your VIN and I can check to see whether you have the latest update on your APIM. Ford is really great about updating parts and then not telling you that you need to perform a software/firmware update to the APIM to make it work right :headbonk:

The car puts power down smoother, easier, and more efficiently. Comparing the speed of these cars to your older modular motor is difficult. Even comparing it to a 14 and back isn't really fair considering how much has changed with the S550 chassis.
 
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Agent_S550

Agent_S550

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I wish my service adviser was half as helpful/knowledgeable. I think we all can appreciate your time.
Thanks! I'm very fortunate to no longer be an adviser but I certainly still like to help people. It's arguably a terrible job while also having the ability to make great money. I just got tired of being a stump for people to kick. :D It's why most of the good ones have moved on to greener pastures
 
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Agent_S550

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Ever since i got my car i sometimes feel a small grind when going into 3rd gear at slow speeds. Is this normal?
Possible issue with your slave cylinder or master cylinder. Or you could have air in the line. It wouldn't be unheard of to have one of these cars hydraulics not properly bled at the factory. The Clutch isn't disengaging fully for whatever reason.

Also, the transmission's on these cars are clunky and wound up like a rubber band. A small grind, clunk, whine, etc. is inherently part of these cars.
 
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Agent_S550

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Any heavy hitters regarding known 5.0 clutch problems, friction plate material, and clutch failures?
Saw 3 cars come through for issues with the clutch plate failing. Springs gave out. These were early 15's. Newer ones are pretty stout. I also saw a few V6 cars have issues that we had to replace the clutch on.
 
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Agent_S550

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What is the "SSM"? Any help on chasing down the rattles in the 15 and how best to silence them would be greatly appreciated. A few that I can think of are;

one right at the small speaker at the front of the driver's side door panel. It's a high pitch, if I press right around the speaker it stops.

One right about where the microphone is in the headliner rear center in my ecoboost.

One in the lower center dash.
"Standard Service Message"

Basically a generic bulletin for every Ford of a certain range. The best thing to do is pick up the foam tape from a craft store. It's the super tech high fancy thing that Ford tells you to use. Works like a champion. Also, wrap the push clips in two layers of electrical tape. It'll tighten them up.

Sounds to me like the speaker may be lose or not seated properly.

Microphone is definitely lash between the plastic and the base of it. Loosen the screws, shift it around and see if it can seat better on its base.

Never had a car with a lower center dash rattle. Is it the center stack trim thats making noise?
 

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jbailer

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"Standard Service Message"

Basically a generic bulletin for every Ford of a certain range. The best thing to do is pick up the foam tape from a craft store. It's the super tech high fancy thing that Ford tells you to use. Works like a champion. Also, wrap the push clips in two layers of electrical tape. It'll tighten them up.

Sounds to me like the speaker may be lose or not seated properly.

Microphone is definitely lash between the plastic and the base of it. Loosen the screws, shift it around and see if it can seat better on its base.

Never had a car with a lower center dash rattle. Is it the center stack trim thats making noise?
I think so but not sure. This one I haven't been able to narrow down the spot and can't find a specific area to press to stop the buzz. It sounds like it is down near the usb port and power plug.
 
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Agent_S550

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I think so but not sure. This one I haven't been able to narrow down the spot and can't find a specific area to press to stop the buzz. It sounds like it is down near the usb port and power plug.
pull up the pocket rubber insert and loosen the screws. Check to see if where the plastic meets the console isn't cocked. I've had a bunch of these cars come in with rattles and have the time you unbolt something you see the part shift and hear a pop the minute it gets tension off it. Retighten and boom, all good.
 

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vibration at 25-30mph

Hello all,
Picked up my '16 GT PP in March, and have put about 9k miles on it since.
I have a drive train vibration between 25-30mph. It does not matter if I am in gear or in neutral. It does not matter which gear I am in. Vibration stops when I slow down below 25mph or speed up beyond 30mph. Any ideas of what could be causing this? It shakes the whole car and the all the plastic pieces around the transmission tunnel and center console. I'm guessing it's a transmission mount or drive shaft issue? Has anyone else experiencing a similar problem? I've also got some misaligned body panels, but cosmetic issues are not as important to me as the mechanical. I'll be taking it in to the dealership soon for my first oil change and to have some other issues addressed.

List of what I've noticed on my car:
1) Hood is misaligned.
2) Trunk is misaligned.
3) Hood shakes a little when I'm on highway speed.
4) Driver side pony projection puddle light does not look like a pony anymore.
5) Vibration between 25-30mph
 

tamadrummer1120

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Hey Agent,

Quick question. I just got a 2017 GT Premium with PP last month. It has 2k miles on it. It seems everytime it is hot outside (meaning hot inside as well), and I begin to leave work and crank the a/c on, within the first few minutes I hear a really loud cracking noise one time. It never does it again after that. Sounds exactly like as if a rock was hitting a windshield. Not sure if this is some sort of expanding and contracting deal because of the heat and then turning on the a/c or what.

Thanks man!
-Chris
 
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Agent_S550

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Hello all,
Picked up my '16 GT PP in March, and have put about 9k miles on it since.
I have a drive train vibration between 25-30mph. It does not matter if I am in gear or in neutral. It does not matter which gear I am in. Vibration stops when I slow down below 25mph or speed up beyond 30mph. Any ideas of what could be causing this? It shakes the whole car and the all the plastic pieces around the transmission tunnel and center console. I'm guessing it's a transmission mount or drive shaft issue? Has anyone else experiencing a similar problem? I've also got some misaligned body panels, but cosmetic issues are not as important to me as the mechanical. I'll be taking it in to the dealership soon for my first oil change and to have some other issues addressed.

List of what I've noticed on my car:
1) Hood is misaligned.
2) Trunk is misaligned.
3) Hood shakes a little when I'm on highway speed.
4) Driver side pony projection puddle light does not look like a pony anymore.
5) Vibration between 25-30mph
Sounds eerily like a driveshaft problem. Or possibly a subframe alignment issue.

Side note for you, 9k is wayyyyy to long to go on an oil change. Especially on a Coyote.
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