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brandonsmash

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Do you happen to have any information on C-pillar squeaks and rattles or panel misalignment? I've mostly cured the C-pillar issues but it's been a long and tedious process, and the panel alignment just sucks.

Thank you!
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thet33

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Are there large variations in amount of drivetrain loss? I have a base GT and even with 3.55s, my car feels a lot slower than I would expect. My first Mustang so I don't have much of a sample size but I test drove a Premium recently and it felt a lot more responsive. I don't know if it was in my head but that wasn't even the reason I was looking at the premium but still noticed it.
 
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Agent_S550

Agent_S550

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Ford has quality issues, my Ford F150 door alignment, My Ford Edge transmission had
hard downshifts, Ford Mustang interior pillar misalignment and interior noises
while driving.
Unfortunately so. I wish it wasn't the case. They've stepped their game up in 16' but even more so in 17'. The late 16's I think benefited the most from the 15's errors.
 
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Agent_S550

Agent_S550

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Any info on the convertible tops having problems? My back window brace keeps coming un-done, there is a trim piece that keeps snapping off every time I put the top down, and the headliner is tearing.
Shoot me your vin. Some service bulletins appear from being in a select vin pool. Might be able to find something on your car specifically.
 
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Agent_S550

Agent_S550

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Do you happen to have any information on C-pillar squeaks and rattles or panel misalignment? I've mostly cured the C-pillar issues but it's been a long and tedious process, and the panel alignment just sucks.

Thank you!
The 15's (which it appears is your year) are plagued with dash rattles. Had quite a few run through my shop. It was the standard general procedure that we used. I can get you fords SSM if you if you'd like but it's not mustang specific. I'd be curious to see if your panels were warped from installation at the factory
 

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Agent_S550

Agent_S550

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Are there large variations in amount of drivetrain loss? I have a base GT and even with 3.55s, my car feels a lot slower than I would expect. My first Mustang so I don't have much of a sample size but I test drove a Premium recently and it felt a lot more responsive. I don't know if it was in my head but that wasn't even the reason I was looking at the premium but still noticed it.
Yes there are. I'll have to find it as it was kind of buried, but I did see a drivetrain loss calculator based on the options, motor, and gears of a car the way it was ordered. Is your car automatic or manual? Also how many miles are on it? Surprisingly the break in (whats actually in the PCM) is over 1500 miles. It's not 500 miles like people think. The 5.0 PCM is a very tightly wound rubber band when brand new.
 

thet33

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Yes there are. I'll have to find it as it was kind of buried, but I did see a drivetrain loss calculator based on the options, motor, and gears of a car the way it was ordered. Is your car automatic or manual? Also how many miles are on it? Surprisingly the break in (whats actually in the PCM) is over 1500 miles. It's not 500 miles like people think. The 5.0 PCM is a very tightly wound rubber band when brand new.
I have a base GT in manual with 3.55 gears. I am at about 17k miles currently.
 
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Agent_S550

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I have a base GT in manual with 3.55 gears. I am at about 17k miles currently.
Most likely you're feeling what is a high drivetrain load with 3.55's. I can tell you with my car when I bought it brand new I felt it was kind of slow. It broke in and became quicker, but now it feels slow again. I attribute it to a well worn butt dyno. I'd like to see dyno/track results of your car to see how it actually fairs

-Steven
 

thet33

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Most likely you're feeling what is a high drivetrain load with 3.55's. I can tell you with my car when I bought it brand new I felt it was kind of slow. It broke in and became quicker, but now it feels slow again. I attribute it to a well worn butt dyno. I'd like to see dyno/track results of your car to see how it actually fairs

-Steven

Thanks. I've actually been thinking about getting a dyno done but have been putting it off. I think I'll pull the trigger and post the results so that you guys that actually know what to look for can help me out. I know there's not much you can do w/o additional info.
I appreciate the response.
 

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any thing on rear windshield leak. Causes and solution?
 

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Thanks Agent!!! :thumbsup:
 

Gigantor

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Most likely you're feeling what is a high drivetrain load with 3.55's. I can tell you with my car when I bought it brand new I felt it was kind of slow. It broke in and became quicker, but now it feels slow again. I attribute it to a well worn butt dyno. I'd like to see dyno/track results of your car to see how it actually fairs

-Steven

Steven,

What is the drivetrain load for 2016 prem. GT 3.15, automatic?
 

MSMStannyl

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Hi,
What's the real reason(s) for the misaligned rear window to third brake light issue that tilts the glass to the drivers side (warped glass, uneven sheet metal, not enough glue, etc?) on many of these cars. Lots of past discussion on this. Prevalent in the 15's through 17's (now I am hearing). I've heard of some success with resetting new glass with more glue on the drivers side to level it.

Thanks
Yes, this has been a big issue. I brought this up with my car back in early 2015. Mine was really bad and very noticeable when compared to the 3rd brake light. I believe I have a picture floating around here somewhere. Mine was an early 2015 (GT Premium) purchased in Feb 2015. I can't believe this issue is still happening with 2017 models (if that's the case). Hell, I can't believe it was an issue on 2016 models.

Thanks. First I have heard this. To fix then is it just a matter of resetting the old glass or new glass? Once pulled, not sure if it can be reused.
I was 'this' close to taking mine to a dealer last year to get it fixed. Luckily, I got rear ended instead! It was relatively minor but turned into a big, expensive repair (I have a thread on this too). Long story short, as part of the normal painting/blending process, they actually pulled the fastback glass and reset it. Looks great now.

So to answer your question, yes, the glass can be reused. The body shop owner (kind of a friend of mine) was explaining how new cars are using this method for glass installation. It's some kind of new sealant/caulk. That's why the front windshield and fastback glass both have that "floating" effect. There's no weather-stripping around them so once the glass is removed, they just have to remove the old sealant and than put new stuff down the right away (i.e. - the EXACT opposite way that some Ford employee has been doing it for going on 3 years!)
 
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Agent_S550

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Thanks. I've actually been thinking about getting a dyno done but have been putting it off. I think I'll pull the trigger and post the results so that you guys that actually know what to look for can help me out. I know there's not much you can do w/o additional info.
I appreciate the response.
You're welcome. Keep me posted. Always happy to help!

Gigantor said:
Steven,

What is the drivetrain load for 2016 prem. GT 3.15, automatic?
As soon as I can find the drivetrain loss spreadsheet I had I'll be happy to post it. It's been a while and I sort of stumbled across it.
 

Souldriver

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Yes there are. I'll have to find it as it was kind of buried, but I did see a drivetrain loss calculator based on the options, motor, and gears of a car the way it was ordered. Is your car automatic or manual? Also how many miles are on it? Surprisingly the break in (whats actually in the PCM) is over 1500 miles. It's not 500 miles like people think. The 5.0 PCM is a very tightly wound rubber band when brand new.
I had the same feel of mine coming from an 07 gt.

I now have a gt premium, pp, 3.73 torsen, manual. At 1k miles it didnt feel too fast. At 1.8k it seems to be openining up but still not the quickest. Do i have big drivetrain loss or is it the power is put down much smoother than the old cars the "butt dyno" cant calibrate right?

Also ive been having an issue with my backup camera lines missing. The rear decklid was replaced and they are missing, tried disconnecting the battery then driving around but no luck. I think at this point i have to bring it into the dealer to get recalibrated but if there is anything i can try before that i would be immensely grateful.
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