Knockdown
Well-Known Member
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The effort today was focused on removing the 3 set screws from the HP adjustable camber plates and adding about -1 degree of camber.
After leveling the car with floor tiles and fitting my hub stands on the front, I measured -1.3 degree of camber and 1/4” total toe in. I marked the factory setting on the strut tower.
Then it was on to remove the 3 set screws from each side. Disconnect the upper sway bar link and the lower control arm (LCA) position sensor. Drop the strut enough to move it around to access the 5/32 Allen screws, get the strut top back in the tower, add some negative camber, re- attach the sway bar and LCA sensor.
Ended up at about -2.4 degree camber and that changed the total toe to 0”. I’ll see how that does on our first track day.
After leveling the car with floor tiles and fitting my hub stands on the front, I measured -1.3 degree of camber and 1/4” total toe in. I marked the factory setting on the strut tower.
Then it was on to remove the 3 set screws from each side. Disconnect the upper sway bar link and the lower control arm (LCA) position sensor. Drop the strut enough to move it around to access the 5/32 Allen screws, get the strut top back in the tower, add some negative camber, re- attach the sway bar and LCA sensor.
Ended up at about -2.4 degree camber and that changed the total toe to 0”. I’ll see how that does on our first track day.
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