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Finally installing parts, what about alignment?

Dave TBG

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Looks like Monday is it, the parts I've accumulated are going in. The only thing I can't find is consistent information on alignment specs. The specs I've seen, in the posts I was able to find, show more variation than I had expected.
To be clear, I'm going with the M-18000-F kit (FRPP dampers, PP strut mounts), GT350R springs, Steeda front control arms (roll center correction) BMR CB010 and Steeda rear subframe alignment kit. The car is my DD, it's purpose is "fun commuter" and it will probably never see an autox, DE, or any sort of track event.
I'm thinking I may be best staying close to stock GTPP alignment (?) but this is my first time around with this platform. It looks like there isn't a whole lot of adjustment available without adding adjustment points (camber plates, etc) which I am not doing at this time. Should I expect any problem due to lack of adjustability? Being as that there are many of you with more experience, I'd appreciate any suggestions.
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Toe will be your main focus. 0.00 to 0.06 toe-in (+) on each front wheel, 0.12 toe-in for each rear wheel.

Your camber shouldn’t increase too much with the R springs, but like you’ve said you can’t adjust the front anyhow—which is no big deal for a dd with those springs. For the rear, you’ll be fine where it sits after the install, but many like to dial the camber to just a bit lower than the front numbers.

Lastly, you want your setup as symmetrical as possible between the left and right wheels. 0 thrust angle. Enjoy your new setup :beer:
 

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I would do camber plates at the same time. Save you the labor of having to pull everything off to install them later if you actually need to make alignment changes. I wish I did when I bought my springs (BMR Min Drop so 0.875" compared to your "0.625). Would like to dial back the camber slightly and get it exactly the same side to side. OEM alignment specs are a huge range, here's BMR's recommendations
Street Handling - BMR - Kelly (800x529).jpg
 

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Yeah all you can adjust is rear camber and toe on all 4 corners. Front toe is going to be whack aftet the parts install because of the control arm change, so don’t drive it much without the alignment.

the other thing is to make sure to “clock the bushings” at the new ride height with the weight of the car on it’s tires. That part is critical to getting the expected drop from the springs and generally keeping things working as intended. Clocking is probably best done on an alignment rack.
 

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Yeah all you can adjust is rear camber and toe on all 4 corners. Front toe is going to be whack aftet the parts install because of the control arm change, so don’t drive it much without the alignment.
I just did the control arm change and Yes, the front toe was whack. Driving it was a little scary. I drove it around the block and then adjusted the toe myself to make the car more safe to drive to the alignment shop.
The control arms were a worthwhile mod !!
 

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Dave TBG

Dave TBG

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I would do camber plates at the same time. Save you the labor of having to pull everything off to install them later if you actually need to make alignment changes. I wish I did when I bought my springs (BMR Min Drop so 0.875" compared to your "0.625). Would like to dial back the camber slightly and get it exactly the same side to side. OEM alignment specs are a huge range, here's BMR's recommendations
Street Handling - BMR - Kelly (800x529).jpg
Thanks for the input. While it would be nice to include camber plates now, that and a hand full of other parts will be part of the second wave of improvements. I want to get a feel for this group of parts and then use that info to guide my next purchases. There will be another alignment at that point. I figure it's probably a year out.
Yeah all you can adjust is rear camber and toe on all 4 corners. Front toe is going to be whack aftet the parts install because of the control arm change, so don’t drive it much without the alignment.

the other thing is to make sure to “clock the bushings” at the new ride height with the weight of the car on it’s tires. That part is critical to getting the expected drop from the springs and generally keeping things working as intended. Clocking is probably best done on an alignment rack.
Thanks, I plan to take a copy of the graphic that shows which bushings and their torque specs when I take the car in. (As soon as I find it)
I just did the control arm change and Yes, the front toe was whack. Driving it was a little scary. I drove it around the block and then adjusted the toe myself to make the car more safe to drive to the alignment shop.
The control arms were a worthwhile mod !!
Between the arms and the rear subframe alignment, I'm sure the alignment will be way out of whack. I'm not doing the install though, a shop is, and they can take care of the alignment too. I started gathering parts almost a year ago with the plan of installing the shocks/struts/springs myself before boating season started. Weather and work kept that from happening and it didn't get done in the fall either. The control arms were supposed to be part of the second wave, then came black Friday, but that lead me to a realization.
I don't have a garage that would allow me to work indoors over the winter and I don't know if this spring will be any better than the last one. Life is too short to be tripping over boxed of parts, I'm having my parts installed and start enjoying them. The next wave will come when the planet's are properly aligned .
I should sign off now, I think I'm just babbling now. 12 hour day at work plus an hour and a half of commuting and, well, I'm a huge Rush fan so it's been a rough day. The local station is playing 2112 at 21:12 as a tribute so I'm preoccupied on top of it all.
Thanks for all the help, this platform is very different from what I'm used to and I have e a lot to learn here.
 
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Dave TBG

Dave TBG

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Just 1 flaw, as I loaded everything into the car I realized that the nut is missing from from one of the control arms. Can the original one be reused? Is it the same size on the factory arm and the Steeda version? Is it a one-time-use fastener?
 
 




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