FINALLY DID IT!

[BallisticBurrito]

I have a JLT catch can. It is not a scam. It caught an ounce of oil in the first 1000 miles I used it.

I second the JLT catch can. Installation could not be easier. They took a OEM Ford PCV hose, cut it in half and shoved their can on it. Easiest mod to install ever.

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[paul123]

@Enzo

I made a posting here asking about proper 5.0 break-in. Ford is rather vague on the topic. The responses were all over the map but the one I liked best was keeping RPM < 3000 until oil temp climbs to "Normal", and then RPM < 4000 for first 1000 miles. It's rough because the 5.0 wakes up at 3000.

Your recommendations?

 

[GT Pony]

A 150 dollar plastic cup is a fucking scam

Spending other people's money? :doh:

Oil catch-cans do work. I'd rather have the oil they catch in the can vs. inside my intake manifold and coking on the intake valves. I've wasted $150 ~ $200 on other stuff that had less value than a catch-can.

 

[paul123]

Oil catch-cans do work. I'd rather have the oil they catch in the can vs. inside my intake manifold and coking on the intake valves. I've wasted $150 ~ $200 on other stuff that had less value than a catch-can.

without a catch can, does any oil that gets back into the intake manifold always foul intake valves or can it get vaporized? Do the long high drives burn off any carbon build up?

 

[GT Pony]

without a catch can, does any oil that gets back into the intake manifold always foul intake valves or can it get vaporized? Do the long high drives burn off any carbon build up?

Any oil that gets into the intake manifold through the PVC system will coat the inside of the manifold, and if heavy enough some will get sucked down through the intake valves and burned up.

I just don't like burning oil that's been ingested into the intake manifold. Ideally, the inside of the intake should be dry and not coated with motor oil.

 

[BBB]

without a catch can, does any oil that gets back into the intake manifold always foul intake valves or can it get vaporized? Do the long high drives burn off any carbon build up?

It burns off and that's why these things are a scam

 

[Enzo]

@Enzo

I made a posting here asking about proper 5.0 break-in. Ford is rather vague on the topic. The responses were all over the map but the one I liked best was keeping RPM < 3000 until oil temp climbs to "Normal", and then RPM < 4000 for first 1000 miles. It's rough because the 5.0 wakes up at 3000.

Your recommendations?

That sounds about right. Also from my experience I change all oils at 1500 miles. All metal shavings get built up in there and it makes it really sludgy. Especially the differential. When I poured out my challenger differential fluid it was all sludgy.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Here are some more pics I took today. I washed the car, clay barred it, waxed it (twice), and did minor details. Always love a new clean ride. Funny thing is I had a lot of new challenger owners breaking their necks starring at it and a porsche lol.

Awesome, looks great!

I agree the Challenger RT needs more power especially for the size of car it is and how much it weighs. That engine I felt like was very handicapped, It had some extremely restrictive headers. They say with headers, exhaust and intake it makes about 440 to the crank, thats funny to think about when the coyote makes 435hp with .7 liters less. The coyote to me felt faster then the new SRT8 Challenger.

The 5.0 Coyote is a super fun and interesting engine. It has decent power across the RPM range, though not as TQ-y as some of the larger CI motors in the SRT cars, or LT1 in the new Vette/Camaro, but it's also got a fairly high rev range and just keeps pulling strong up top.

Does your car have the black Premier Interior?

 

[GT Pony]

It burns off and that's why these things are a scam

It can also coke onto your intake valves, and can carbon up the heads and plugs.

 

[RobD]

Beautiful car and pics, congrats!! I don't have a catch can so I can't recommend one but ignore the people voicing negative opinions. They work and help the engine on several points, some already mentioned. Oil in the intake charge lowers octane which is a bad thing if performance is a priority. If you have plans for boost the catch can is even more important. The PCV system is only there because of the EPA, race engines just vent the crankcase gases to the atmosphere. Old school cars had open breathers on the valve covers. Point is, nothing good about sucking oil fumes into the intake charge.

 

[Ultrakla$$ic]

If you go with a catch can, go with the UPR.

Nice car!

 

[combustor]

It can also coke onto your intake valves, and can carbon up the heads and plugs.

Also lowers the anti-knock properties of the fuel/air and generally causes problems. There's a reason light aircraft don't re-breathe the crankcase vapors (it's just vented overboard)

 

[Rogues Gambit]

Congratulations, beautiful car man!

 

[Anthony 05 GT]

Especially on a forced induction engine a catch can is a must. My Whipple blower inlet elbow would gather a pool of oil which will end up coating the valves and cause detonation too. I bought a nice aluminum anodized can off of ebay for about $70 shipped that came with baffling material and fittings.

I will say that oil separators suck and gather hardly any oil...now that's a scam for $60-$70

 

[Enzo]

thank you guys i appreciate all the cheers! I had a oil catch can on my challenger and it did collect a lot of oil on there so I know for sure that they work. Mine used to collect a lot of oil. I want to prevent as much oil from going into the intake as possible.

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