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[MAGS1]

Good info. I have a 22 M1 with 780 miles. Is this something I should worry about? So the best fix is to shorten the pipe or do Tony's method? At what mileage does this typically happen at? I obsoletely love the active exhaust I don't want it to be disabled lol

I don’t know if it’s an issue on unmodified exhausts or if it’s mainly with resonator deletes. I don’t plan to mess with mine unless there’s an issue or if I end up doing a resonator delete. I was all set to do an h pipe but the stock AE sounds so good I’m hesitant to mess with it now

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[WD Pro]

Good info. I have a 22 M1 with 780 miles. Is this something I should worry about? So the best fix is to shorten the pipe or do Tony's method? At what mileage does this typically happen at? I obsoletely love the active exhaust I don't want it to be disabled lol

Standard cars straight from the factory can do it too.

Mine had loads of clearance when cold, but it obviously expanded / moved around enough to show that small witness on my photo that we found when the standard exhaust came off.

Some standard cars have completely trashed their wiring - warranty claim.

Some cars with X or H pipes have had the wiring damaged inadvertently during install (more likely on the install method where you don't fully drop the exhaust) - good luck with a warranty claim.

Any slight increase in length either from inaccurate cuts and / or re fitment errors will also exaggerate the problem - again, good luck with a warranty claim.

WD

 

[traxiii]

Mine is still working but a couple of the wires are cut, flush at the connector and were sliced by the pinch weld after X-pipe install.

Does anyone know the part number for the cable? I plan on shortening the X pipe at least 1/2" and replacing the cable.

 

[WD Pro]

Mine is still working but a couple of the wires are cut, flush at the connector and were sliced by the pinch weld after X-pipe install.

Does anyone know the part number for the cable? I plan on shortening the X pipe at least 1/2" and replacing the cable.

Literally, it was only last Thursday I stripped the part number decal off my second loom and returned everything to Ford for refitment …

I defo think it’s the right move to shorten the pipe just a little

WD

 

[WD Pro]

For those who find this when they are messing around with their exhaust (resonator delete etc), you have a few options :

A) Shorten the cut line.

B) Shorten the end of the H / X pipe where it mates to the original system.

C) Ensure everything is pushed fully home on reassembly.

Mine had loads of clearance when cold, but it must expand and move around a lot when hot and under torque.

Mine had just started to rub the heat tape :

Repaired with a bit of sacrificial protection :

Rough cut in the right place, then a bit of a reduction and a neatening :

H pipe reduction

That should give approximately 15mm of extra clearance at the back end

WD

Here it is after those two mods - not the easiest of things to capture on a photo … lol

I believe this to be a much better option than the other method of relieving (i.e. cutting away or hammering out of the way) the frame in that area

Loads of clearance now and the wiring in that photo is very relaxed, it could easily be encouraged to be a little more forward if required.

Tailpipe fit is in my option is perfect. I know it’s a GT so different than your Mach’s, but the cut angles fit with the flow of the rear valance perfectly :

i.e. I don’t think shortening the cut point and h pipe compromised the rear fit - and maybe even improved it …

WD

 

[traxiii]

Here it is after those two mods - not the easiest of things to capture on a photo … lol

I believe this to be a much better option than the other method of relieving (i.e. cutting away or hammering out of the way) the frame in that area

Loads of clearance now and the wiring in that photo is very relaxed, it could easily be encouraged to be a little more forward if required.

Tailpipe fit is in my option is perfect. I know it’s a GT so different than your Mach’s, but the cut angles fit with the flow of the rear valance perfectly :

i.e. I don’t think shortening the cut point and h pipe compromised the rear fit - and maybe even improved it …

WD

We cut 3/4" off mine and it looks nice and tucked in, just like yours, with lots of room for the connector.
FYI: The replacement cable is part # JU2Z-14S411-ACA and it's called a pigtail on the Snap-on drawings or cable assembly on the invoice. I haven't got it yet, but the pictures look like it might be a repair kit, with new ends that you splice on to the existing cable.

 

[WD Pro]

We cut 3/4" off mine and it looks nice and tucked in, just like yours, with lots of room for the connector.
FYI: The replacement cable is part # JU2Z-14S411-ACA and it's called a pigtail on the Snap-on drawings or cable assembly on the invoice. I haven't got it yet, but the pictures look like it might be a repair kit, with new ends that you splice on to the existing cable.

I managed to find two photos taken from the same angle as a comparison of pre and post mod :

WD

 

[NGOT8R]

I managed to find two photos taken from the same angle as a comparison of pre and post mod :

WD

Looks better in the pic on the left.

 

[WD Pro]

Yeah I prefer the left picture / shorter pipe - which is lucky as I can't go back now ...

I've never particularly liked long / protruding tail trims, but I appreciate we are all different

The GT's don't exactly have the best looking tale pipes for showing off anyway, so a good fit flowing with the lines of the diffuser at least does them a few favours !

WD

 

[SheepDog]

I realize this thread is dead, but didn't want to start a new one regarding the same issue. After having the same problem, I realized that the true problem here is that my catback section was installed too far back. Those of you that have this issue and have damage to the wiring harness, get under your car and loosen the butt clamps at the resonator (or resonator delete) and then get a prybar in between the mufflers and the sway bar. Push the exhaust as far towards the front of the car as possible, and re-tighten the clamps.

You can easily check first if you have the room for this, by looking at the hangers for the mufflers. Mine were all the way up against the bent section of the hanger, so I was able to move my catback a good 1.5" forward, which provided plenty of room for the wiring harness not to hit the body of the car.

 

[spankybranch]

I’ve had this happen 3 times on my stock 22, I’ve had the dealer “fix” it twice, I’ll have to have the place that does my alignments see if they can scoot it forward at all. Thanks.

 

[adeuel]

I've noticed the "unavailable" warning, but only at the track if I forget to change to track mode before going out on track, and then change it on track.
It seems to blow the fuse everytime I forget.

I just replace the fuse, and no problems until next time. Lol.

Now I just remind myself to pull the fuse before going to the track.

 

[cosmo73]

I just superglued a piece of rubber to the metal frame so the harness isn’t rubbing against bare metal when it moves around.

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