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That's the way to go, but I do like the A pillar mounting. If it were similar priced I would've bought pp1 trim and put them there.:clap:
Yours may actually be better due to being somewhat at eye level and in your vision while doing a pull. It was never exactly easy to look at the center dash doing a WOT scary pull.
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vaeevictiss

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Does this mean getting forscan and adding the option for ecoboost motors boost gauge is a somewhat accurate reading? Ive heard we can do that but it calculates boost somehow instead of actually reading it
I have a PP1 and installed the ecoboost gauge pack and on the 115 pulley it was reading around 10 PSI, went on the dyno and took boost rite off the BOV line and it was 7.5 PSI.
I then installed a boost gauge in the car from the BOV line and then had a friend video a pull so i could see both gauges the Ecoboost gauge read 10 and the boost gauge from BOV read 7.5
, the factory gauge is infered not actual boost
 

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so if i did this and wanted to add back in an oil pressure sensor, is there an additional port you can plug their sending unit into? Im assuming removing the existing one and putting in the one that comes with the gauge will throw a low oil pressure code and CEL.
You can add any gauge you want boost, fuel , oil, afr etc etc. You would just need the proper senders depending on what you choose. For oil you would probably have to get one of those plates that screws on to where the oil filter is. I honestly havenā€™t researched it for an oil pressure gauge thou I was only concerned with boost and fuel pressure.
 

vaeevictiss

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You can add any gauge you want boost, fuel , oil, afr etc etc. You would just need the proper senders depending on what you choose. For oil you would probably have to get one of those plates that screws on to where the oil filter is. I honestly havenā€™t researched it for an oil pressure gauge thou I was only concerned with boost and fuel pressure.
Can probably just add the gauge in the display anyway i bet. Can't remember which ones you can show
 

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did you just flip or trim the tube? Mine wasn't so bad until I installed the pp1 rad.
Is upgraded rad worth it? My temps are kind of high in the summer temps so far, but its also only when im idling so i doubt a rad would help much
 

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Is upgraded rad worth it? My temps are kind of high in the summer temps so far, but its also only when im idling so i doubt a rad would help much
Yes and no. It wonā€™t work miracles, but it does seem to keep temps going as high as quickly and recovers a little better than a base model 1ā€ rad. No it doesnā€™t do a bunch idling, but Iā€™m in TX and itā€™s damn hot. I like the peace of mind. I will say for the most part on the hwy I would sometimes see temps float around 212-216 with the A/C on blast now it stays around 202-208 so there is to me a noticeable difference. I did also go in with a little more of a diluted mix of antifreeze and water so that couldā€™ve helped aswell.
Edit: also keep in mind I have the 170 degree thermostat
 

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For those that added a boost gauge, what "pods" are you using? Seems the only options are the ac grille ones that look dumb, IMO, and I have the PP so I only have 2 there to begin with. And the Autometer A pillar one that is supposedly really cheap flimsy plastic, doesn't attach well, and in some peoples opinion, would be unsafe in an airbag deployment.
Although the Autometer one doesnt have the plastic push tabs to hold it in place, it does still have a metal tab with a hole in it for the plastic retention strap. Kind of hard to explain unless you've taking off one of your A-Pillars, but there is a small plastic strap/cord with plastic barbs on it that keeps the A-Pillar from chopping your head off in an airbag deployment. Just like OEM
 

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Although the Autometer one doesnt have the plastic push tabs to hold it in place, it does still have a metal tab with a hole in it for the plastic retention strap. Kind of hard to explain unless you've taking off one of your A-Pillars, but there is a small plastic strap/cord with plastic barbs on it that keeps the A-Pillar from chopping your head off in an airbag deployment. Just like OEM
I left that unclipped it pissed me off. I'll take the pillar to the face.
 

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Yes and no. It wonā€™t work miracles, but it does seem to keep temps going as high as quickly and recovers a little better than a base model 1ā€ rad. No it doesnā€™t do a bunch idling, but Iā€™m in TX and itā€™s damn hot. I like the peace of mind. I will say for the most part on the hwy I would sometimes see temps float around 212-216 with the A/C on blast now it stays around 202-208 so there is to me a noticeable difference. I did also go in with a little more of a diluted mix of antifreeze and water so that couldā€™ve helped aswell.
Edit: also keep in mind I have the 170 degree thermostat
I have the 170 deg but i was debating if upgrading the rad was worth it.
 

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I have the 170 deg but i was debating if upgrading the rad was worth it.
The radiator will make a much bigger difference compaired to the 170 degree thermostat. Having the 170 degree T-Stat only allows for the thermostat to open at a cooler temp, but once the radiator reaches thermal capacity it doesn't matter what T-Stat you have. You could remove the T-Stat completely and once the cooling system is exceeding its thermal capacity, you will still get overheating situations. A bigger/more efficient radiator, more air flow through it, or chemical cooling (Like water meth injection and/or a Co2 fogger) are the only way to control excessive coolant temps.
 

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Definitely gonna do a radiator upgrade at some point. Seems like the concesus is to do the Performance Pack Radiator
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