Engine shake/vibration after clutch and trans install

[Racereds550]

Hi, I'm new to the forum. I just had my trans rebuilt and installed a McLeod rst twin disc with a McLeod lightened aluminum flywheel, I had a terrible shake any time that rpm's we're increased above idle. I contacted McLeod and was informed that they do not balance their flywheels and pressure plates as assemblies but individually. So I had my stock flywheel cut and reinstalled a factory clutch hoping the shake would go away. Unfortunately that did not fix my issue. The shake/vibration is directly related to engine speed and not vehicle speed. Before I go throwing parts at this thing or dropping the trans again I'm asking on here to see if anyone has more insight on these cars and has seen issues with cam sensors or crank sensors being damaged during clutch installs. I have done multiple crankshaft relearns with several different scanners. The big issue is trying to figure out if it's engine related or clutch/transmission related. If there are any simple tests or ways to eliminate one or the other. The car feels like it has normal power, the shake feels like a misfire but no cel has come on nor any codes stored. My next thought before dropping the trans again was going to be to test the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor's resistance to see if it is one of them. I'm just wondering if I'm over thinking it and should just drop the trans again and take a look at everything again.
Thanks in advance for any input.

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[Cobra Jet]

Usually the flywheel must match the balance of the rotating assembly - easier said, matched to harmonic balancer. So for instance, IF the harmonic balancer was a 50oz balance, the flywheel MUST be matched and be a 50oz as well.

If the rotating assembly is no longer matched, it would create vibes and could be detrimental to the engine internals. Worse case scenario, you could snap the front of the crank snout off.... aside from wiping bearings from prolonged out of balance use due to an imbalance.

Do you know the weight of the flywheel used?

Did you check all of your bolt torque specs when installing everything (flywheel, pressure plate, etc)?

Does the vibe subside when you press in the clutch (or let out), or is it present regardless if clutch is even used?

 

[Racereds550]

Usually the flywheel must match the balance of the rotating assembly - easier said, matched to harmonic balancer. So for instance, IF the harmonic balancer was a 50oz balance, the flywheel MUST be matched and be a 50oz as well.

If the rotating assembly is no longer matched, it would create vibes and could be detrimental to the engine internals. Worse case scenario, you could snap the front of the crank snout off.... aside from wiping bearings from prolonged out of balance use due to an imbalance.

Do you know the weight of the flywheel used?

Did you check all of your bolt torque specs when installing everything (flywheel, pressure plate, etc)?

Does the vibe subside when you press in the clutch (or let out), or is it present regardless if clutch is even used?

This is the first time I've done a clutch in a coyote. Are these engines that sensitive to imbalances? I've done quite a few clutches in the past from LS cars to older modular mustang's and never had a vibrational issue.
Would you suggest a new flywheel and clutch that are balanced? I'm also uncertain about how to find out about the weight either flywheel or harmonic balancer. I just assumed everything is neutral balanced.
As far as torque specs I used a very accurate torque wrench. I'm beginning to to l really despise this mt82. Especially when I get to watch my friend with a camaro do performance upgrades and not have driveline headaches like I'm having lol.

 

[ice445]

Sounds like installation error if it keeps happening with multiple different clutches. The twin disc clutches usually require some marks to be lined up for balance reasons but otherwise there's nothing special about this engine that I'm aware of. Maybe your torque wrench is out of calibration or you're using the wrong spec for the flywheel and it's distorting.

I'm not saying this to be condescending either, you obviously have experience with this type of job. But instead of blaming parts, start at the simplest possibility and work backwards from that.

 

[V8_MOTOR]

My friend did the mcleod fly wheel and rst clutch upgrade to his car. Although he didn't have any engine vibration issues specifically, he had clutch chatter and the car vibrations and juddering when changing gears and feeding the clutch in.

Mcleod were less than helpful on the issue. He ended up putting Mantis parts in and his problems were resolved immediately.

This is not a friend of a friend of a friend. Lol I sat in the car when he took me out for a spin and it was bad. He put atleast a few hundred miles on the car to try and bed the clutch in etc.

He has a supercharger, ati balancer, MMR chain guides, tensioner etc. These engines aren't super sensitive. He just had junk parts.

When this happens. There is only one way to go and that's to either reinstall stock parts and see where you stand. Or spend more money.

I would recommend go back to fully stock. If the vibrations go away, buy mantis. If they don't then you have likely missed something very simple.

 

[Racereds550]

Thank you for your responses. I believe I am going to buy a new fly wheel from Ford and look into an aftermarket single disc and have them balanced together to ensure it won't be a clutch problem. This is my daily driver and tbh I'm almost happy I didn't have to suffer with the rst twin disc, imo McLeod is overrated. A friend of mine had a slew of issues with his rxt. Just so I'm not going crazy the flywheel only lines up one way on the crank? I will also have a friend go through all the torque procedures with me and help me put this one in (hopefully for the last time).

 

[NoVaGT]

I'd be wondering if the twin-disc clutch and fly-wheel from a 2018+ car would work?

They do lower the pedal effort, cut it in half, so there's a real benefit there.

 

[Racereds550]

I'd be wondering if the twin-disc clutch and fly-wheel from a 2018+ car would work?

They do lower the pedal effort, cut it in half, so there's a real benefit there.

They aren't factory twin disc's now, are they?

 

[V8_MOTOR]

Thank you for your responses. I believe I am going to buy a new fly wheel from Ford and look into an aftermarket single disc and have them balanced together to ensure it won't be a clutch problem. This is my daily driver and tbh I'm almost happy I didn't have to suffer with the rst twin disc, imo McLeod is overrated. A friend of mine had a slew of issues with his rxt. Just so I'm not going crazy the flywheel only lines up one way on the crank? I will also have a friend go through all the torque procedures with me and help me put this one in (hopefully for the last time).

If you ever do decide to upgrade your clutch. Mantis is the way to go. They are dollar but very very good.

For the fly wheel, keep it OEM. Ford Performance. You will never have an issue with them.

 

[shogun32]

They aren't factory twin disc's now, are they?

18+ are, yes. If a vendor is only going to balance individually they need to mark the light spots and weights so you have any hope of getting them aligned to mostly cancel each other out. Sounds like a lazy-ass vendor.

 

[Racereds550]

I'm definitely going to look into running an 18+ factory clutch. I am also going to ask the dealer if they balance the flywheel and pressure plates when installing them. I don't see why I wouldn't be able to run the 18+ setup. The McLeod setup came with marks to line up, I followed the installation to a T.

 

[NoVaGT]

They aren't factory twin disc's now, are they?

Yes, they are. It's why I bought my '19.

Cuts the pedal effort in half.

I think the 18+ fly-wheel is also.......somehow different. Dual mass?

But will it work in your MT82? Will you also need to replace the hydraulics in the trans? Dunno.

 

[Racereds550]

Yes, they are. It's why I bought my '19.

Cuts the pedal effort in half.

I think the 18+ fly-wheel is also.......somehow different. Dual mass?

But will it work in your MT82? Will you also need to replace the hydraulics in the trans? Dunno.

It won't work, the input shaft is longer and there are differences with the bell housing. At least that's what I was told.

 

[Stang55]

Factory clutch is the way to go, although the RST is an organic material which based on my experience does not have the long term damage effects on the transmission like a ceramic based flywheel. I think the reason why its doing that is because you have an aluminum flywheel, which is too light. Maybe steel flywheel would be the way to go. SMFW are daily drivable if you have it installed correctly and go for a organic/steel combo. Although I haven't had any slip with mine even the FI guys are all running stock clutches they are pretty strong despite being DMFW. But like the others said I think the problem is installation issue. You should go for steel flywheel for smoother drivability.

 

[Kong76]

I second the aluminum flywheel possibly being the problem. Mcleod makes a lightened steel flywheel. As far as the factory clutch.... It's a single disc made in Turkey. I am on my second and after 22k it's slipping. I also tried to get the 18+ dual disc but dealer said nope.

Mantic clutches are $$$. I would rather use that money toward a Magnum XL.

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