Engine Exploded need short block~~~right now!

[Juben]

And this is why I'm always broke.......

Tis the life of a racekor driver, bro.

Sponsored

 

[Dominant1]

Wow seems like alot of these 4 bangers are blowing up...what gives?

 

[Busser48]

Wow seems like alot of these 4 bangers are blowing up...what gives?

Read some of the threads on here. Like 99% early build engines, if u have a 2016 chances are your going to be just fine

 

[Busser48]

Wow seems like alot of these 4 bangers are blowing up...what gives?

And in case your post was trolling, don't be mad that these 4's keep up with GT! ;) lol

 

[Weather Man]

Step-1 The intercooler upgrade without a tune is likely going to hinder performance because you will experience less boost at the intake manifold without a tune designed to compensate for this condition. At least I did as a result of the CP-E install.

CP-e intercooler on stock car picks up significant power with no tune. Dyno results posted in their intercooler thread.

 

[perfweld]

Wow seems like alot of these 4 bangers are blowing up...what gives?

I was under the impression that the stock rods and pistons were the weak link till I got my OEM stuff in a box the other day. Im running mid 11s at 120 mph at 3785 lbs on the stock engine that is a so called weak early build. After analyzing the OEM Rods / Pistons, im not agreeing on that in any shape or form, been around this stuff for over 30 years. You'd have to detonate the F$%^ out of these to break it.

 

[Dominant1]

No not trolling just wondering why....I've been seeing alot of threads with these motors blowing up after mods are added! So Ford fixed this for 16/17?

 

[doulos4jc]

I was under the impression that the stock rods and pistons were the weak link till I got my OEM stuff in a box the other day. Im running mid 11s at 120 mph at 3785 lbs on the stock engine that is a so called weak early build. After analyzing the OEM Rods / Pistons, im not agreeing on that in any shape or form, been around this stuff for over 30 years. You'd have to detonate the F$%^ out of these to break it.

My mechanic says these motors are pretty robust and it took a lot more than the mods I did to blow it up. All I know is something or somethings made it blow. I'd love to do some forensic science and find out the cause.

 

[perfweld]

My mechanic says these motors are pretty robust and it took a lot more than the mods I did to blow it up. All I know is something or somethings made it blow. I'd love to do some forensic science and find out the cause.

He is right, till you get these parts in your hands you dont realize that they are very robust. I could get all techie on the pros and cons in different areas of the parts, but that's pointless. Point is if you keep your knock under control, they will live up to quite a bit of power.

 

[TunaFish15]

Point is if you keep your knock under control, they will live up to quite a bit of power.

Any suggestions? I heard running a higher octane, than the car is tuned for, helps? I'd have to drive out to Fremont for 94 octane if that's the case.

 

[jbailer]

Any suggestions? I heard running a higher octane, than the car is tuned for, helps? I'd have to drive out to Fremont for 94 octane if that's the case.

The same thing is accomplished by having your car custom tuned. From your signature, I see Adam tuned your car so you're all set. The reference to running higher octane than tuned for is if you're running a canned tune. Adam gets the logs of how your car is actually running with your specific mods and environment and tunes from there in a safe manner.

 

[TunaFish15]

From your signature, I see Adam tuned your car so you're all set.

Indeed. Cheers mate!

 

[Slow89]

He is right, till you get these parts in your hands you dont realize that they are very robust. I could get all techie on the pros and cons in different areas of the parts, but that's pointless. Point is if you keep your knock under control, they will live up to quite a bit of power.

Exactly.... And after talking to Jon from Lund. In my honest opinion I think people need to chill out on their pump gas and e30 tunes. Does e30 help? Fuck yes it does but it's NOT RACE FUEL or straight e85. So you don't have the safety net those two provide. I'm starting to see a trend of pump and e30 cars blowing.

 

[chadhtx40]

Early builds, huge negative ignition corrections, Shitty spark plugs, JMS boost chips, stock intercooler, wastegates not adjusted correctly. That's what I've read on here for a lot of the issues. I've been running e30 all summer long and my ignition corrections are on point and I mix correctly. I'll run 93 though in the winter as my experience with these cars was that they can run lean on mixing in the cold weather.

 

[TheLion]

I was under the impression that the stock rods and pistons were the weak link till I got my OEM stuff in a box the other day. Im running mid 11s at 120 mph at 3785 lbs on the stock engine that is a so called weak early build. After analyzing the OEM Rods / Pistons, im not agreeing on that in any shape or form, been around this stuff for over 30 years. You'd have to detonate the F$%^ out of these to break it.

The stock rods and crank are not the weakest link. It's the pistons, they are cast, not forged. Both the Rods and Crank are forged. While there are certainly more robust and higher quality forged rods for built engines, the factory parts are quite robust and as you state will get you into the low 12's / high 11's without sacrificing reliability. I don't consider a car that lasts 10k miles and then throws a rod to be a reliable performance car, I would expect at least 150k miles for a performance DD assuming proper maintenance. If your not racing it 24/7, I don't see why you couldn't get up to 200k on some. I've seen a few Fox Body V8's with 250k and they were modded but with stock internals. Yes the EB's are running under high boost compared to a NA V8, however the rings, rods and crank are specked to match that and most modern engines have a minimum expected service life of 150k under the most severe operating conditions, many times actual service life well exceeds that.

It would seem a much better idea to buy a built short block for dedicated racing and pushing more than 425 ft-lbs wtq.MAP, LMS and others provide built short blocks capable of supporting up to 600 to 700 whp! BTW, according to LMS and their in-housing test cars, the 2.3L's tend to give out around 425 ft-lbs wtq and roughly 350 whp on average. A 10~15% margin under that should still provide a good service life. So pushing past 380 wtq and 315 whp and you start to increase risk quite a bit of those kinds of failures early on.

Rods will fail form too high power levels (I have yet to see the crank give, so it's probably the most stout component on the bottom end) where as the pistons, wrist pin, bearings or head gasket will typically give out from too aggressive timing (knock or super knock aka LSPI) which seems to be by far the most common failure. Note that many people have bent or broken rods along with the piston failures, however that is a result of the piston failing first.

Sponsored