Engine breakin protocol

[radelow]

Deleted. Wrong thread

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[Lucky7s]

Break in period for High RPM Engine

On a FPC 2.2L Honda motor from the factory, do not exceed 4000RPM for the first 3000 Miles. Once past 3000 Miles, change oil (mine to full synthetic), and then enjoy to hearts content to 8200 RPM's.

Only thing I can think of that is a FPC motor to compare to fords engine really that I know what the factory wanted at the time btw.

I would recommend as several have stated before breaking in with varying loads but not taking the motor to the stratosphere til you have a couple of thousand of miles on the motor for best longevity.

 

[Grimace427]

My car won't even make it home from the dealer before pegging the rev limiter.

 

[Spa2k]

You're making me grimace! :lol:

 

[Strokerswild]

Once up to temp (key), drive it like you normally would. Too many people baby new engines, IMO. Engines broken in briskly make more power and are generally better off in the long run (less blow-by, etc).

My GT got bounced off the limiter the first time around the 50 mile mark.

 

[Trackaholic]

On a FPC 2.2L Honda motor from the factory, do not exceed 4000RPM for the first 3000 Miles. Once past 3000 Miles, change oil (mine to full synthetic), and then enjoy to hearts content to 8200 RPM's.

Only thing I can think of that is a FPC motor to compare to fords engine really that I know what the factory wanted at the time btw.

I would recommend as several have stated before breaking in with varying loads but not taking the motor to the stratosphere til you have a couple of thousand of miles on the motor for best longevity.

My friend has an S2000 with the 2.0, 9000 RPM engine, and the break-in was similar to what you describe. I don't remember the exact RPM and mileage limits, but I think the goal was to avoid engaging the VTEC cam until the engine had seen several heat and oiling cycles.

Since the Ford engine doesn't use VTEC, I don't know if the same limits would apply. I plan to follow what the owner's manual recommends (within reason), since I figure those recommendations are there to make an engine last as long as possible and minimize and warranty claims.

-T

 

[Spa2k]

I plan to follow what the owner's manual recommends (within reason), since I figure those recommendations are there to make an engine last as long as possible and minimize and warranty claims.

:amen:

 

[Hack]

I think you completely misunderstood what I said.

Varying engine speed and load, IS A GIVEN... It is also better to induce such loads on the engine and components when the engine is heated up.

Maybe I did.

Avoid idling the engine for long periods, especially during the first 1,000 miles. That will tend to glaze the cylinders because the rings aren't being loaded.

I agree loads are better when the engine is warm in theory, but the best way to warm the engine up quickly is to load the engine.

High RPM during the first 1,000 miles is better to avoid as well. I'm not saying you will destroy the engine revving it. Of course you won't. But if you want it to make the most power and last a long time you will do best by waiting until you are past 1,000 miles for that.

 

[krt22]

On a FPC 2.2L Honda motor from the factory, do not exceed 4000RPM for the first 3000 Miles. Once past 3000 Miles, change oil (mine to full synthetic), and then enjoy to hearts content to 8200 RPM's.

Only thing I can think of that is a FPC motor to compare to fords engine really that I know what the factory wanted at the time btw.

I would recommend as several have stated before breaking in with varying loads but not taking the motor to the stratosphere til you have a couple of thousand of miles on the motor for best longevity.

I would not go more than 1000 miles before the first oil change..and would definitely would not go 3000 miles only going halfway through the rev range.

With modern day CNC machining, CMM post inspection, statistical binning, etc, etc...the tolerances they can keep are much much tighter than motors of yore..thus break in periods are much less critical, really just to give a fine polish of all the metal to metal surfaces.

Once its up to temp, give it a little hell, change the oil at 1000 miles to get any residual metal shavings/particles out, then good to go.

 

[R 350 gt Donson]

Most viper owner change the oil in the first 500 miles...just saying

 

[Hack]

I would not go more than 1000 miles before the first oil change..and would definitely would not go 3000 miles only going halfway through the rev range.

With modern day CNC machining, CMM post inspection, statistical binning, etc, etc...the tolerances they can keep are much much tighter than motors of yore..thus break in periods are much less critical, really just to give a fine polish of all the metal to metal surfaces.

Once its up to temp, give it a little hell, change the oil at 1000 miles to get any residual metal shavings/particles out, then good to go.

I would rather change the oil sooner as well, but what bakes my brain is not knowing what oil/additive package Ford puts in at the factory. Am I going to be better off doing something different than what Ford recommends? When I assemble my own engines and break them in, I'm liberal with oil changes. I typically change the oil after the cam is broken in (flat tappet only) and at 500 miles and then again 1,000 later. Probably overkill, but it's worked for me. Since I'm not sure what Ford has put in, I tend to follow their recommendations. They have highly paid and trained people coming up with break in instructions. Just because I don't have all the information - I feel I can't assume I know better.

Regarding your thoughts about modern CNC equipment, inspection and SPC, tolerance and surface finish are two very different things. I did notice looking at images of the pistons that they are deburred and rounded amazingly well. Those pistons got a lot of love. Not necessarily true of every part inside the engine. I wouldn't use my love for modern manufacturing techniques as a reason to do something different than what Ford recommends.

I will be interested to see whether Ford's recommendations are different for the Voodoo than for the Coyote or other engines. I would be surprised if they are going to ask people to follow a break in routine for 3,000 miles. That's a really long time IMO. Only someone like Honda could get away with that. Something like using plastic belts to drive the overhead cams and they can snap and destroy your engine at 60,000 miles. Totally ridiculous Honda could do that and have people still say their engines are great. :tsk:

I also agree not waiting so long to rev the engine, especially to only 4,000 rpms. That would be an absurdly low rev count to keep it below for so long. Pretty tough to do. I would avoid bouncing it off the limiter during Ford's recommended break in period, though.

 

[JGRoush]

My car won't even make it home from the dealer before pegging the rev limiter.

No joking here! How could you NOT hit the rev limiter in your brand new mustang? :shrug: I hit it on the test drive! Haha

 

[Mustang1260]

Jesus--are some of you guys really that damn stupid or just spouting off on topics you know nothing about on the internet?

Peak HP falls away well BEFORE REDLINE...running an engine to redline is beyond DUMB.

And yeah, the car's computer catches such events and records them...early engine failure and Ford is gonna hand YOU the repair bill.

 

[JGRoush]

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body(mustang:ford, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!"
~Hunter S. Thompson

 

[krt22]

Jesus--are some of you guys really that damn stupid or just spouting off on topics you know nothing about on the internet?

Peak HP falls away well BEFORE REDLINE...running an engine to redline is beyond DUMB.

And yeah, the car's computer catches such events and records them...early engine failure and Ford is gonna hand YOU the repair bill.

Come on man, how eske are you going to keep the engine loaded for max power launches? Can't just hold it steady, that doesn't load the engine, gotta bounce it off the limiter

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