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Engine blew up

perfweld

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I bought my car used and it had 8000 miles on it, all I ever do with the car is go out and log then drive it to the track and go race it. I do drive it into town as well which is about 30 miles, and ive also taken 3 or 4 1000 mile road trips to see my parents in it. Since 8000 miles, my car had been rode hard, I believe with the stock engine I had well over 600 data logs and over a few hundred timeslips. I started out running mid 12s and had worked the car down to running 10.80s to 10.90s for a long period of time with the best of a 10.73 until at about 25k miles, I changed the engine out and put a built engine in. The original engine came out running fine and is now at Esslinger Enginnering getting a full build.

My car, the UPR car and even Jon Lunds personal ecoboost are a testament on how strong these engines are with the proper tune and adequate octane for the tune. Jons car did finally blow up but did run an 11.03 with the stock convertor and the stock turbo , which proved that he can only get so aggressive with low engine speed torque. Jon's goal was to get into the 10s with the stock turbo , and he truly didnt care in the end if it broke or not, for him it was a goal, and a way to learn more about what the stock engine could take.

I have the rods and pistons out of an OEM Spain engine, and my opinion is that the weak link is the I beam of the rod, its thin, the piston, pin, the small end and the big end of the rod are very stout, its just the I beam itself is thin. What this means is that at low engine speed if the tune is to aggressive and sees knock, it will bend, once bent, it will break something in the rod / piston assembly from there, if its not and instant catastrophe.

I think the 2015 Spanish to 2016 Cleveland engine theory is the biggest crock of shit ive ever heard. Rod bolts not being tight on all the rods is virtually impossible the way modern engines are assembled. Until I see a rod and piston from a Cleveland engine and compare it next to my Spanish built counterparts, I will always think its just a scandal and is being used as an excuse, the entire internet will cant convince me until parts are laid in front of me. It could even be that the Spanish built engines have better parts, but im not one to throw out a lie with no proof.

I say Happy Modding to all of you, choose your Tuner wisely !!!! , use good fuel all the time, and when your gonna race it or drive it real hard, over octane the car for the given tune, knock at low engine speed is what has killed all these engines, and will continue to do if not tuned correctly.
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tw557

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Is it possible to use a meth or water injection on lightly tuned 93 octane motors just for reliability and not specifically for more power. Not run a specific tune for it but to just keep the pre ignition in check?
 

metalhead79

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I've been reading up on water/meth injection lately - I'm curious about it because I'm limited to 91 octane and don't want to mess with E30 or E85 - and I have read a couple times that you can safely run water/meth injection without a tune. I'm not sure how true that is. I'll definetly be tuning for it if I end up running it.
More power and lower CAT's? Yes, please!
 

DavidHuff

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I bought my car used and it had 8000 miles on it, all I ever do with the car is go out and log then drive it to the track and go race it. I do drive it into town as well which is about 30 miles, and ive also taken 3 or 4 1000 mile road trips to see my parents in it. Since 8000 miles, my car had been rode hard, I believe with the stock engine I had well over 600 data logs and over a few hundred timeslips. I started out running mid 12s and had worked the car down to running 10.80s to 10.90s for a long period of time with the best of a 10.73 until at about 25k miles, I changed the engine out and put a built engine in. The original engine came out running fine and is now at Esslinger Enginnering getting a full build.

My car, the UPR car and even Jon Lunds personal ecoboost are a testament on how strong these engines are with the proper tune and adequate octane for the tune. Jons car did finally blow up but did run an 11.03 with the stock convertor and the stock turbo , which proved that he can only get so aggressive with low engine speed torque. Jon's goal was to get into the 10s with the stock turbo , and he truly didnt care in the end if it broke or not, for him it was a goal, and a way to learn more about what the stock engine could take.

I have the rods and pistons out of an OEM Spain engine, and my opinion is that the weak link is the I beam of the rod, its thin, the piston, pin, the small end and the big end of the rod are very stout, its just the I beam itself is thin. What this means is that at low engine speed if the tune is to aggressive and sees knock, it will bend, once bent, it will break something in the rod / piston assembly from there, if its not and instant catastrophe.

I think the 2015 Spanish to 2016 Cleveland engine theory is the biggest crock of shit ive ever heard. Rod bolts not being tight on all the rods is virtually impossible the way modern engines are assembled. Until I see a rod and piston from a Cleveland engine and compare it next to my Spanish built counterparts, I will always think its just a scandal and is being used as an excuse, the entire internet will cant convince me until parts are laid in front of me. It could even be that the Spanish built engines have better parts, but im not one to throw out a lie with no proof.

I say Happy Modding to all of you, choose your Tuner wisely !!!! , use good fuel all the time, and when your gonna race it or drive it real hard, over octane the car for the given tune, knock at low engine speed is what has killed all these engines, and will continue to do if not tuned correctly.
Thanks for the great information that all our members can use!
 

LuckyJerk

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Just some food for thought.
How reliable are the Focus ST engines when modified?
Looking at Wiki-Ford Ecoboost Engines it states the following
"The 2.3-L EcoBoost engine is produced with the 2.0-L EcoBoost at the Valencia Engine Plant in Valencia, Spain."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_...80.9CTwin-scroll.E2.80.9D_.282015.E2.80.93.29

I would suspect that they would have somewhat the same reliability via torque specs.

I myself don't know the exact figures about how well they hold to modding but I'm sure there are quite a few that are holding just as well coming from the same plant.
 

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8borerifle

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I have a 2015 Mustang Eco Premium auto PP that I have the FP tune. I just got back from Disney World and I saw a ton of rental Mustang Ecoboosts. You know how they are treated (like a rented mule) yet you don't see those blowing up all over the place. I really think the poster that said the earlier experimenting with the tunes on the 2015's when they came out caused the problems. I went with the FP tune because of the warranty (mine will be up this time next year) and I wanted a safe tune that gives more punch. As said by others, that is how the car should have been sold!
 

navair133

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As I mentioned, I have a Livernois tune-not aggressive. My 2015 Valencia built engine blew. Dealership service informed me that the number one piston cracked open. Ford looked at it and replaced under warranty.

In my case, it was not the tune.
 

DavidHuff

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As I mentioned, I have a Livernois tune-not aggressive. My 2015 Valencia built engine blew. Dealership service informed me that the number one piston cracked open. Ford looked at it and replaced under warranty.

In my case, it was not the tune.
In your case it is called Preignition or better know as Engine Detonation,if left uncorrected it can ruin the motor.You guys better listen to perfweld and read his post very careful when you start tuning your Mustang Ecoboost.Perfweld did not spend thousands of dollars on his fuel system to run E85 Fuel for no reason.
 

tw557

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Does anybody have an idea of the cost to just replace the rods and pistons. It seems like these are the week links. A good set cost about 1000. If the installing cost would not be too high it would be a lot cheaper then when the motor blows with ruined block and I'm guessing the head too.
 

metalhead79

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In your case it is called Preignition or better know as Engine Detonation,if left uncorrected it can ruin the motor.You guys better listen to perfweld and read his post very careful when you start tuning your Mustang Ecoboost.Perfweld did not spend thousands of dollars on his fuel system to run E85 Fuel for no reason.
Seems to me, if you tune you should be doing E30/E85/Meth injection. These engines seem to need the extra knock resistance you get from higher octane in order to push higher than stock power levels safely. Trying to tune on 91/93 octane seems to be risky.
 

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jtmat

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Your mileage is almost exactly the same as mine. Regarding the FP Tune later, you do know that it will only cover until 3/36 from original vehicle purchase right? So if you went that route, you probably have less than a year or less than 6k miles I believe. If you do it, you wouldn't have coverage on the power train after the 3/36 FP warranty expires so if gaining that warranty on the new engine is important to you beyond 3/36 from original vehicle purchase, I'd leave it stock. When Ford says you'll go back to the 5/60, they mean 5/60 from original purchase. Putting the FP tune on it isn't a time reset either.

I would use that as a minimum recommendation. If you believe it is different, I would encourage you to discuss it with Ford Performance and the service manager at your dealer.
He would still have powertrain coverage... 5/60 with the FP... unless the dealership said it was a tune issue.
 

perfweld

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Everyone seems to dismiss when they see the porcelain on a spark plug fall down, or the electrode fall off. When the piston is cracked they blame it on a Spain engine or a fluke, or when its catastrophic no one ever chums it up to simply to aggressive of a tune for the given octane. I have had my fair share of scares with mine as far as seeing knock on datalogs, and ive learned lessons watching them like a hawk, Jon taught me well. I even bought a $150 laptop just to take to the track with me and to look at datalogs and make sure all is kosher. Being that 90% of people wont get this extreme, its safe to say be happy with a less aggressive tune and always over octane the car.
 

metalhead79

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Everyone seems to dismiss when they see the porcelain on a spark plug fall down, or the electrode fall off. When the piston is cracked they blame it on a Spain engine or a fluke, or when its catastrophic no one ever chums it up to simply to aggressive of a tune for the given octane. I have had my fair share of scares with mine as far as seeing knock on datalogs, and ive learned lessons watching them like a hawk, Jon taught me well. I even bought a $150 laptop just to take to the track with me and to look at datalogs and make sure all is kosher. Being that 90% of people wont get this extreme, its safe to say be happy with a less aggressive tune and always over octane the car.
I was thinking water/meth with a good, but not super aggressive tune for my daily driver would be a safe bet. I've been reading around and it seems like water/meth would be better than E30 because it provides the octane boost, but also drops temps. It's inferior to E85, of course.
I've upgraded my intercooler already, so I'm ready to tune from that perspective. I don't want to have to constantly monitor logs, though.
I just need the car to push me back in the seat when I stomp the gas, that's all I want. My old GT did that and I want that feeling again.

Am I on the right track or.....?
 

Chef jpd

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He would still have powertrain coverage... 5/60 with the FP... unless the dealership said it was a tune issue.
That is exactly what Jbailer said in his post...........:headbonk:
 

navair133

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In your case it is called Preignition or better know as Engine Detonation,if left uncorrected it can ruin the motor.You guys better listen to perfweld and read his post very careful when you start tuning your Mustang Ecoboost.Perfweld did not spend thousands of dollars on his fuel system to run E85 Fuel for no reason.
From the limited information that I have given how have you determined the cause of my engine failure? I really am interested.

I had a 91 octane Livernois tune. Always used 91 octane. Unless Livernois is now considered an aggressive tune, the tune was not the cause.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but haven't there been 2015 engine failures in untuned mustangs?

Ford paid for my new engine. If they thought the engine failure was tune connected I doubt that would have happened.

I am sort of repeating myself. Just want to make sure you are reading carefully.
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