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Enclosed Trailer & Towing Help

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Jmeo

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With only 8K in towing you better go with a very light trailer, I have a 24' Millennium Extreme Race Car Trailer w/Spread Axle w/Rear Wing. It's light to allow for max cargo plus has good brakes and spread axle's for handling, I would get the rail ryder system installed in it. It will not be cheap as the trailer will cost between 20 and 25K plus the rail ryder system. A load distribution hitch is a must you will be towing something that will be about 2K more then your truck weighs. Load distribution, brakes and handling will be very important. I purposely did not go with a raptor and went with a Lariat FX4 max towing so I could get up to 11K in towing. I don't have the rail ryder system installed yet...lol. getting that done very shortly my last Mustang was a convertible so getting in and out with the side door was easier now with a coupe it's a must.
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bNOW_READYb_2019_2-Tone_24_Millennium_Extreme_Enclosed_Race_Trailer_wSpread_Axle__Wing_3LGLOi.webp
bNOW_READYb_2019_2-Tone_24_Millennium_Extreme_Enclosed_Race_Trailer_wSpread_Axle__Wing_Hyhx9U.webp
This is extremely nice, I will keep looking for less expensive options. I don't need any bells/whistles as I will only use it 2x per year, and only need the car to fit.
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You NEED:
8.5ft wide
V NOSE
ETRACK
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH +ANTISWAY BAR
ELECTRIC JACK
REAR AIRBAGS

I just towed 12 hours with a 2.7 EcoBoost.
26ft +2ft V
This is more comfortable than any open trailer ive used thus far, except for aluminum tilt trailer
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I just posted on your thread about trailer questions, thanks for replying here, I appreciate it.

On my punch list is:

(For Raptor)
Weight Distribution and Anti-sway setup
Rear Airbags

(For Trailer)
20' box
V Nose
Escape door
Rear jacks (loading without being hitched to truck)
 
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I tow a 24 ft V nose enclosed with a 2002 7.3L Excursion or my 2002 V10 Class C Motorhome.

Like everyone stated, get the weight distribution hitch and sway bar. Not only for the stopping issues, but when truck pass you, it will limit the sway at highway speeds.

Also, the escape door is great to have but make sure it is configured correctly. I ordered it for mine, but it is an inch higher then wheel well and does not allow my GT500 or GT350 door to open fully. I currently have a 2x10x12 under each side of car but still need to go up approx 3" to get the escape door to work properly.
Right, the dealer I spoke to mentioned he would research the specifics on the GT500 to have the escape door placed properly. There is just over 9" of clearance from the ground to the bottom of the door. I think if the fender is removable as well, it should work.
 
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My next question is do I "have" to have torsion axles? I do know that they are in fact better, but do I "need" them based on maybe twice a year use of the trailer?

It was suggested to me to use D rings with Mac's Pro Pack Tie Downs as opposed to a tract setup due to cost, and really only needing one spot per wheel to tie down the car. Says 99% of the time once the rings, or tie down setup for the tract system in in place they NEVER get moved and you are only using one spot anyway. Makes sense to me.
 

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My next question is do I "have" to have torsion axles? I do know that they are in fact better, but do I "need" them based on maybe twice a year use of the trailer?

It was suggested to me to use D rings with Mac's Pro Pack Tie Downs as opposed to a tract setup due to cost, and really only needing one spot per wheel to tie down the car. Says 99% of the time once the rings, or tie down setup for the tract system in in place they NEVER get moved and you are only using one spot anyway. Makes sense to me.
My opinion only is yes on torsion axles. I use D rings now with loop tie downs they go through the wheel and do not touch suspension or car. I loaded my 13 on the trailer and tied down in 20 minutes by myself and unloaded in 15 minutes by myself. Getting in and out of the car is the problem my side door and the convertible made it easy now with a coupe it will be harder still doable for a few more years till I get to old and am not limber enough to crawl in and out. That’s why the rail Ryder system is so nice.
 
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My opinion only is yes on torsion axles. I use D rings now with loop tie downs they go through the wheel and do not touch suspension or car. I loaded my 13 on the trailer and tied down in 20 minutes by myself and unloaded in 15 minutes by myself. Getting in and out of the car is the problem my side door and the convertible made it easy now with a coupe it will be harder still doable for a few more years till I get to old and am not limber enough to crawl in and out. That’s why the rail Ryder system is so nice.
I hear you on the older thing lol. If I can not get the escape door to work properly with my GT500 I will entertain the Ryder system, thats for sure.
 

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Right, the dealer I spoke to mentioned he would research the specifics on the GT500 to have the escape door placed properly. There is just over 9" of clearance from the ground to the bottom of the door. I think if the fender is removable as well, it should work.
I know you said you wanted to stay aluminum, but they get expensivi quickly. Good luck with your search.

Remember, even if the fender wheel is removable (mine is not), the car door will still hit the tire. Just FYI.
 

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My next question is do I "have" to have torsion axles? I do know that they are in fact better, but do I "need" them based on maybe twice a year use of the trailer?

It was suggested to me to use D rings with Mac's Pro Pack Tie Downs as opposed to a tract setup due to cost, and really only needing one spot per wheel to tie down the car. Says 99% of the time once the rings, or tie down setup for the tract system in in place they NEVER get moved and you are only using one spot anyway. Makes sense to me.
I went thru the same question when I ordered mine. I went with no torsion axle. They ride nicer (supposedly) but being in a motorhome or excursion, not sure I would have known the difference.

I have D Rings in my trailer and use the Ford Performance tie downs. Its a pain in the ARSE to use, but I love them. Being an enclosed trailer and a short little fat guy, getting around the sides is hard. So what I have learned is, connect straps to the tie down points outside the trailer (front and back). Then hook trailer side to the trunk and hood latch (trunk open and hood closed enough to load car) and drive into trailer.

Another option, small winch and winch into the trailer.
 
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I know you said you wanted to stay aluminum, but they get expensivi quickly. Good luck with your search.

Remember, even if the fender wheel is removable (mine is not), the car door will still hit the tire. Just FYI.
These 100% aluminum trailers are coming in around 14k, so its doable. I believe with the fender removed, the tire does not stick up more than the 9" of available clearance, so the door opens without issue. The fender itself is the biggest clearance issue. Thanks for your help :beer:
 

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I went thru the same question when I ordered mine. I went with no torsion axle. They ride nicer (supposedly) but being in a motorhome or excursion, not sure I would have known the difference.

I have D Rings in my trailer and use the Ford Performance tie downs. Its a pain in the ARSE to use, but I love them. Being an enclosed trailer and a short little fat guy, getting around the sides is hard. So what I have learned is, connect straps to the tie down points outside the trailer (front and back). Then hook trailer side to the trunk and hood latch (trunk open and hood closed enough to load car) and drive into trailer.

Another option, small winch and winch into the trailer.
Yah, in a perfect (no budget limit) world, the sliding system is key lol. I am also a short and plump guy haha. Here is a picture of the trailer I am looking at, You can see the height of the fenders is pretty low, and the drivers side one is removable.

Screen Shot 2019-12-28 at 7.07.55 PM.webp




Upon further look, it seems this model does not have removable fenders, just low clearance ones. WORST case would be to put a piece of 2x12 on the floor, either full-length to drive on, or just under each tire to get some extra height.....

Screen Shot 2019-12-28 at 7.04.24 PM.webp
 
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I tow a 24 ft V nose enclosed with a 2002 7.3L Excursion or my 2002 V10 Class C Motorhome.

Like everyone stated, get the weight distribution hitch and sway bar. Not only for the stopping issues, but when truck pass you, it will limit the sway at highway speeds.

Also, the escape door is great to have but make sure it is configured correctly. I ordered it for mine, but it is an inch higher then wheel well and does not allow my GT500 or GT350 door to open fully. I currently have a 2x10x12 under each side of car but still need to go up approx 3" to get the escape door to work properly.
My next question is do I "have" to have torsion axles? I do know that they are in fact better, but do I "need" them based on maybe twice a year use of the trailer?

It was suggested to me to use D rings with Mac's Pro Pack Tie Downs as opposed to a tract setup due to cost, and really only needing one spot per wheel to tie down the car. Says 99% of the time once the rings, or tie down setup for the tract system in in place they NEVER get moved and you are only using one spot anyway. Makes sense to me.
yup, i forgot to mention the escape door. I also opted for one, and also, it sits too high. too high for the s2000 i had, and too high for the gt500. the Aventador was perfect thought, as those doors still go up lol

I would still suggest etrack all the way up on the floors, and at least 1 side up to and around the front. or maybe just 2 rows around the front. you may not tink of a reason now, but as you use it, or you get more accustomed to it, you will find it handy. I wish i got my wall E-track up and around the nose. in the grand scheme of things is inexpensive, but so much easier if you need it. Also, with e-track, its les less than 10 total minutes form me to strap the gt500 down. d rings arent bad, but im telling you, have so many connections points reall makes things quick and hassle free
 
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yup, i forgot to mention the escape door. I also opted for one, and also, it sits too high. too high for the s2000 i had, and too high for the gt500. the Aventador was perfect thought, as those doors still go up lol

I would still suggest etrack all the way up on the floors, and at least 1 side up to and around the front. or maybe just 2 rows around the front. you may not tink of a reason now, but as you use it, or you get more accustomed to it, you will find it handy. I wish i got my wall E-track up and around the nose. in the grand scheme of things is inexpensive, but so much easier if you need it. Also, with e-track, its les less than 10 total minutes form me to strap the gt500 down. d rings arent bad, but im telling you, have so many connections points reall makes things quick and hassle free
I have used the track system before in my motorcycle trailer and loved it. I will price it out and see what happens. Maybe have it installed on the floor during production at the very least. I bought some and installed it on the walls of my motorcycle trailer easy enough, I could do the same with this trailer.

The elephant in the room is I also have to find a place to store it, I can not have in on property at my house.........

Have you looked at Futura trailers yet? It is an aluminum drop trailer and this new model is enclosed with soft sides.

image.webp




https://www.futuratrailers.com/--item-detail-super-tourer-pro-enclosed-us
This is pretty slick, but I am not a fan of the soft walls. I like the idea of parking my car inside the trailer during events to keep the honest people honest, if you know what I mean. Otherwise this would be an option, thanks for your input :like:
 
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I cant have trailers either, but i found a guy that does lawn care, gated and locked, camers etc and i park it there for 300/year. im sure a non storag place has to be relativley close to you as well
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