Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[mikengail]

So let me see if I'm reading this correctly, you are using the PMAS intake made for 103MM throttle body to work on the stock 87MM throttle body? If so I am interested knowing more about it. Did you have to retune?

I haven't received the modified PMAS yet. Juggernaut should be shipping out today. I was going to need an adjusted tune for the 87mm throttle body anyway, but the PMAS is a 120mm MAF tube and it will require further tuning adjustment. I'll be doing both at the same time so it will be easier for the tuner. He will only have to write one new file, instead of two.

The stock 2018 MAF tube diameter is 99.7mm, plus or minus 1/10 of a mm. The PMAS will be much less restrictive, of course. Should help my high-end power. I'm at 669rwhp peak right now with the stock throttle body and stock airbox on 91.

Juggernaut had only 2 of these kits left when I made my purchase. The one left will be the last one as Juggernaut is not going to have any more of these kits made. If someone wants to replace their stock throttle body on a 2018+ Stage-1 kit with an 87mm Bullitt/Mach-1, they will likely have to fabricate their own CAI or use a coupler between the throttle body and the end of the stock air tube. Or, they could buy that last unit from Juggernaut. Lastly, in the worst case, they could shell out several grand for the Edelbrock Stage-2 upgrade and still have a smaller MAF housing at 113mm.

VMP and Lund are willing to tune this combination. I'm using both tuners to see which one has the best driveability. Both will likely be so close at peak power that it will be within the normal margin for error anyway. Driveability is most important to me right now. I'm fully retired and have time to experiment and I enjoy doing it...

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[Torinate]

I wish I could find my driveability issue. It’s irking me to no end!

Good luck with dyno! Can’t wait to hear what the difference makes!

 

[mikengail]

Latest update. I got my Ford Racing adapter plate for the 80mm to 87mm throttle body upgrade back from the machine shop. Remember, the throttle body side of the adapter is about 87.5mm and the manifold side of the adapter is about 82.5mm. The machine shop got rid of the extra 5mm so that I could get the full benefit of the entire 87mm. The Edelbrock opening is about 90mm. Note the adapter pic of the throttle body side. You can see how thin the metal is between the opening and the rubber seal valley. Really impressive work and it only cost me $50. Now, the rubber MAF tube is 120mm on the filter side and big enough on the throttle body side for the Edelbrock 103mm throttle body. I simply applied the appropriate thickness of 3M high heat double-sided tape to allow a secure leak-free fit. I'm still awaiting the hard plastic MAF tube with the MAF sensor fitting and the 7" conical PMAS race filter. After completing the installation and getting the tunes (91 and 100) all straightened out, I'll post a final pic and new dyno results...

 

[Torinate]

Is there any vacuum lines coming off the elbow?

 

[mikengail]

None. I'm going to eliminate the brake aspirator connection and connect directly from the brake vacuum booster reservoir to the fitting at the front of the manifold. For the driver's side PCV, I'm going to be using a breather filter. As you can see in the first pic, I haven't removed the brake aspirator connection yet. I'm going to need to find a hard plastic or metal reducer for the difference in hose sizes. In the interim, I'll just cap off the remaining open end...

 

[Torinate]

These guys might have something if your plan doesn’t work.
https://www.siliconeintakes.com

 

[mikengail]

These guys might have something if your plan doesn’t work.
https://www.siliconeintakes.com

Wow. Thanks for that. Going to bookmark that site for future reference...

 

[Torinate]

No problem. They have the adapters for vacuum fittings into the silicone elbows.

 

[illtal]

There are adapters that can be used but you can easily just use a boost/vaccum block if neccessary.

 

[mikengail]

Finally got the CAI and installed it yesterday. Going to try to dyno next week. Did some data logging for Lund and will likely receive any adjustments, if needed, in a new tune file on Monday.

An interesting discovery for me was that, by using the modified PMAS 120mm CAI, I had to eliminate the direct connection from the front grill via a Velossa Tech ram air adapter to the stock airbox. Apparently, that was causing MAF Wash, which made my street driveability so bad. Now, it's totally like it came off the showroom floor, except much much quicker. My butt dyno suggests that I'm pulling more power, after 6,500rpm, with this CAI and the Bullitt TB/Ported Ford TB Adapter. Plus, the supercharger whine is more noticeable when I have the cutouts closed.

Very happy so far. I'm going to take this a step further, after the tune adjustments and dyno, to replace the Bullitt 87mm with a Soler Performance 103mm. More tune adjustments will follow, of course; and, then another trip to the dyno. A fun and interesting project so far...

 

[illtal]

MAF wash is a real thing, there is no turbulence washing/Air straightening devices if you don't have an airbox.

 

[mikengail]

MAF wash is a real thing, there is no turbulence washing/Air straightening devices if you don't have an airbox.

In my case, there was, with my ram air induction when in motion, stock air box or not. That's how it was explained to me by both Lund and VMP. For supercharged Coyotes to drive normally on the street, they need to be pulling through the TB, without any pushing help whatsoever. Previously unknown to me, but removing the pushing effect made my car drive like it did pre-mods of any kind...

 

[ARTAX]

Trying to button up my air intake and eliminate MAF turbulence myself - the CARB approved Stage II supplied AirRaid assembly has some Quality Control issues - MAF housing appears warped - picture doesn't show it as much but it was more egg shaped before - tried pressing a bowl into the hole to even out the opening.

Also another issue with QC being the filter box missing the threaded inserts for the lid to screw into. had to buy some threaded insert nuts from HomeImprovement Store.

Running stock grill but sometimes get surging on 2-3 or 3-4 shift. Want to see if it's safe to install a fin or something inside grill inlet to help prevent direct ram air hitting the small part of the filter that is visible from in front of grill - or using different assembly altogether to relocate filter more to the front space beside the grill.

 

[allicedout]

When I had my 2011 GT with Roush supercharger and JLT CAI I had tons of issues with the car surging. After several tune revisions we couldn't resolve the issue. I finally made the trip from Ontario Canada to Lidio at Alternative Auto Performance in Michigan. Anyways he solved the issue with a sponge baffle. It was made by JLT was about 1" thick and had several 3/4" holes in it for airflow. I don't know what that did for performance but the car was fast enough and the surging was gone. The pictures shows where the sponge was inserted, it did go in from the airbox. A quick way to check is to stuff a rag in and see if that fixes the surging, if it doesn't then disregard everything I said. Good luck.

 

[mikengail]

Mine has been driving like a dream on the street, with the open-air configuration, in the form of the Modified PMAS CAI. She's going on the dyno Thursday at 10 am MST. I'll post the results when I get back. I also need to get the boost numbers from the dyno so I can see whether I have enough room to pulley down one size. For my last dyno, I was at 8.8 lbs with the stock airbox and cutouts open. Lund recommended not going over 10 lbs on 91. I have no idea what pulley size that would be, but I'll do my homework and find out...

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