Easy engine setup for 1000hp?

[pro 5.0]

Thanks Phoenix, I read some more on the CAUSE of the sleeve failures, and makes more sense, I was asking for a route cause of the failure, not just the failure itself.

I know it seems counter intuitive, but seems like a re-sleeved short block + factory rotating assembly would be a pretty stout option and hold to 1000bhp pretty easily. Stock bore re-sleeve plus my already balanced rotating assembly, some new ductile rings and be on my way for $3000 or so?

I get puke in my mouth when I see these shops charging $5,500 for a manley rotating assembly and factory short block and factory sleeves with ARP hardware.

IMO no point in sleeving the factory block and re using the stock rods & pistons, it's all apart put in the Manley rods be it H or I beam and a good set of forged pistons and ARP hardware of course.

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[jhatley7]

Thanks Phoenix, I read some more on the CAUSE of the sleeve failures, and makes more sense, I was asking for a route cause of the failure, not just the failure itself.

I know it seems counter intuitive, but seems like a re-sleeved short block + factory rotating assembly would be a pretty stout option and hold to 1000bhp pretty easily. Stock bore re-sleeve plus my already balanced rotating assembly, some new ductile rings and be on my way for $3000 or so?

I get puke in my mouth when I see these shops charging $5,500 for a manley rotating assembly and factory short block and factory sleeves with ARP hardware.

IMO no point in sleeving the factory block and re using the stock rods & pistons, it's all apart put in the Manley rods be it H or I beam and a good set of forged pistons and ARP hardware of course.

When I lost my motor, 4 bent rods and a cracked piston. 18 psi @ 8K on c85, 1000ish BHP. Block is still good. My failure was the rotating assembly not the block.

Knowing I would push harder, I went sleeved, billet rods and pistons with a forged crank. Just my .02

 

[pro 5.0]

Sometimes the STICKER SHOCK of a fully built motor for the intended hp goals is too much to accept, so we try to find ways to convince ourselves that we don't need OPG, CG, rods, pistons, sleeves etc. Bottom line is that to have a reliable base these parts are a necessity and like the old saying goes you gotta pay to play, I think we are very lucky to have a stock motor that can live at 800 -850 rwhp with just a simple OPG, CG & ATI balancer. Pushing beyond those limits is gonna cost money either way you slice it.

 

[v8ter]

If you want reliable 1000hp, you gonna have to do it properly. There is nothing "easy" about 1000hp.
Bugatti took a 8L W16 with four turbos to make reliable 1001hp.

I dont think they had to have such big displacement and W-16 to get to 1001hp reliable, the car was built around that engine and it sounds more exotic to say its got 16cylinders, 11 radiators, 4 turbochargers rather then it has a V8 with a turbo

 

[v8ter]

Yea its hard to believe that getting to 800whp stock is possible but 150more requires 10k to build it right,but would like to see if I can have something good without investing 10k into it for sure

 

[Phoenix]

Yea its hard to believe that getting to 800whp stock is possible but 150more requires 10k to build it right,but would like to see if I can have something good without investing 10k into it for sure

buy once, cry once. learn from other people's mistakes. it all comes down to use as well.

sure you can make a motor last 1 dyno run in perfect conditions at 1000whp and then never tax the motor again and sure, you have a stock 1000whp motor.

and guy b can have a 800whp motor and beat on it every day and then be suprised when it blows up and makes a post about "MAN I THOUGHT 800WHP WAS SAFE FOR A MOTOR NOW IM GONNA HAVE TO SPEND MONEY AND ITS ALL M6G'S FAULT!!! GRRR!!"

its all a guideline, dawg. youre gonna be ripping the trans off the car anyways since at about 800 it might be a good idea to do trans work.

 

[jhatley7]

buy once, cry once. learn from other people's mistakes. it all comes down to use as well.

sure you can make a motor last 1 dyno run in perfect conditions at 1000whp and then never tax the motor again and sure, you have a stock 1000whp motor.

and guy b can have a 800whp motor and beat on it every day and then be suprised when it blows up and makes a post about "MAN I THOUGHT 800WHP WAS SAFE FOR A MOTOR NOW IM GONNA HAVE TO SPEND MONEY AND ITS ALL M6G'S FAULT!!! GRRR!!"

its all a guideline, dawg. youre gonna be ripping the trans off the car anyways since at about 800 it might be a good idea to do trans work.

His trans is good.

 

[Phoenix]

His trans is good.

he buy your 6060?

 

[al3x]

Does anyone know if the ~$10k aluminator 5.0 would be able to do the 1000whp relatively safely?

 

[jhatley7]

Why spend 10k on an aluminator, when a sleeved and forged can be had for 10k?

 

[pro 5.0]

The aluminator is not sleeved so the only advantage to it is the better rods and pistons over stock. I also believe that the area above the top ring is not very thick, I would want a piston that has .300 top land thickness as a minimum.

 

[al3x]

Why spend 10k on an aluminator, when a sleeved and forged can be had for 10k?

Well since it says "easy" I would think the easiest thing would be the aluminator plus the SC, if it can handle that power. To sleeve your engine and all that might be the same price but I imagine it would take longer and not really be easier

 

[mustang_guy]

I'm looking at about 16g for a full RGR built shortblock and built heads. Good for about 1500 crank

If anyone thinks building a coyote is pricey don't buy a 5.4 gt500 or 5.8. A built 5.8 including heads is around 27g if you ruin your block. 5.4 isn't a bunch cheaper.

 

[2-tone]

Well since it says "easy" I would think the easiest thing would be the aluminator plus the SC, if it can handle that power. To sleeve your engine and all that might be the same price but I imagine it would take longer and not really be easier

If you are talking shortblock aluminator to shortblock sleeved block it's the same amount of work. It doesn't take long to have a sleeved setup built and you can do the swap pretty easily over a weekend with a lift or over a few days working off the ground. These engines aren't much different than previous mod motors. My opinion is the aluminator is not really worth the money because it doesn't address the paper thin stock sleeves and the lack of support outside the cylinders. There are also much better pistons and rods in the aftermarket compared to the aluminator. I would push a stock 15-17 engine with opg and crank sprocket almost as hard as an aluminator.

 

[Burnin4]

My setup makes 1100whp, been down this road. Aside from sleeves being an obvious need, the heads will need some work before bolting them on. Disassemble, sodablast, upgraded springs, valves, multi angle valve job, resurfacing, etc. Zero complaints with my MPR setup, they are a sure thing is you want 1000whp, just need the $.

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