Easy engine setup for 1000hp?

[v8ter]

I would like to see if theres an easy way to getting the engine to take 1000hp thru a whipple without completely rebuilding it, want to hear options and what you guys think I could do to make it more reliable for 1000hp?

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[Boduke0220]

Youre deff going to need rods and pistons. some will debate sleeves/no sleeves but if it were me id build it to hold 500 more than whatever I wanted so you can beat on it with confidence

 

[jhatley7]

Gonna be tought to get there with the Whipple. Expect to do head work and cams also with a sleeved and forged/billet short block.

 

[Dennisn]

If your going for 1000 I'd definatley sleeve it. You can do everything else and then your block is still weak.

 

[2-tone]

Sleeved block for sure if you're chasing 1000 with a whipple. Doing it right will be a $10k shortblock. It would be a little different story if going turbo. Jury is still out on some of the block supports imo. Aftermarket blocks will be available but they are still being tested at this point. Hopefully they live up to the hype and then some.

 

[sigintel]

LM Bear?

 

[Sultan]

I got Whipple and on stock engine just got some oil pump gears and crank sprocket I am around 840ish and not going more without a build for sure.

 

[Travis@boostworks]

Stock sleeves deflect and ring/gasket seal becomes an issue on blower cars above 850whp or so. Turbo cars, around 950whp is our safe limit without sleeves.

 

[v8ter]

I should have specified, Im looking into 1000bhp,which is around 870whp, considering this would I be good replacing rods pistons and using arp fasteners? I do have opg and cs

 

[Phoenix]

sleeve it and run 1000hp and never worry about it.

also. go turbos.

 

[jasonstang]

If you want reliable 1000hp, you gonna have to do it properly. There is nothing "easy" about 1000hp.
Bugatti took a 8L W16 with four turbos to make reliable 1001hp.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

I still think it is strange that a stock short block can handle 850bhp (mid 700's) very reliably and no one thinks twice to do it, yet an additional 150bhp requires a full blown rebuild.

It would make sense to me that finding the failure point that happens around that 800whp mark and addressing it would allow ample head room to get closer to 900whp as the OP is stating.

I am no expert in this area, but seems like a fully forged rotating assembly and additional block bracing would do the trick? Typically a rods/piston rebuild with upgraded ARP hardware is in the 3-4k range.

 

[Phoenix]

Stock sleeves deflect and ring/gasket seal becomes an issue on blower cars above 850whp or so. Turbo cars, around 950whp is our safe limit without sleeves.

I still think it is strange that a stock short block can handle 850bhp (mid 700's) very reliably and no one thinks twice to do it, yet an additional 150bhp requires a full blown rebuild.

It would make sense to me that finding the failure point that happens around that 800whp mark and addressing it would allow ample head room to get closer to 900whp as the OP is stating.

I am no expert in this area, but seems like a fully forged rotating assembly and additional block bracing would do the trick? Typically a rods/piston rebuild with upgraded ARP hardware is in the 3-4k range.

id suggest reading.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

Thanks Phoenix, I read some more on the CAUSE of the sleeve failures, and makes more sense, I was asking for a route cause of the failure, not just the failure itself.

I know it seems counter intuitive, but seems like a re-sleeved short block + factory rotating assembly would be a pretty stout option and hold to 1000bhp pretty easily. Stock bore re-sleeve plus my already balanced rotating assembly, some new ductile rings and be on my way for $3000 or so?

I get puke in my mouth when I see these shops charging $5,500 for a manley rotating assembly and factory short block and factory sleeves with ARP hardware.

 

[beefcake]

if you want to live at 1000 rwhp, sleeved block

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