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ZXMustang
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Nope you're good. Mine tops out at 32.5 and thats about all Wengerd allows. The car would take way more being on E without knock, but its not going to go any faster and you're beating the motor for no reason. But what you are seeing is the sweet spot for most tuners.
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stang17
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I'd be weary about "false knock".
PBD advised I had "false knock", gave me a revision, and 6,000 miles later I was rebuilding my aluminator due to ringland failure.
PBD advised I had "false knock", gave me a revision, and 6,000 miles later I was rebuilding my aluminator due to ringland failure.
what were your symptoms? Mine was getting less than 1 degree of knock on the 2-3 shift like something was rattling in my engine bay or exhaust
stang17
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The thought was rotor noise from whipple was causing the false knock, although the stock whipple tune did not have any issues.
I had upgraded to an aluminator after snapping crankshaft on stock motor, upgraded fuel system and went with PBD as at the time whipple wasn't offering any custom calibrations and was directed by whipple to go PBD.
Added a bunch of octane booster, tried gas at three different stations, scoured every inch of engine bay to make sure nothing was touching....kept getting knock 1st 7-8 revisions. Remote tuning day for dyno rental revision 9 all knock went away, revisions 10, 11, and 12 gradually increasing timing. Ran it that way for about 2 years, redyno at a car show, was down close to 80 whp. Did compression test and leakdown and 5 of 8 cylinders were bad.
Later obtained an unlocked copy of tune, checked revision history, and found that knock sensors were desensitized to the point of unable to reduce motor. Perhaps got a bad tank of pump gas and even with octane booster every fill up wasn't able to save it.
Car was still making over 700 whp in hurt condition, so never really noticed it driving. No leaking fluids or odd noises.
I had upgraded to an aluminator after snapping crankshaft on stock motor, upgraded fuel system and went with PBD as at the time whipple wasn't offering any custom calibrations and was directed by whipple to go PBD.
Added a bunch of octane booster, tried gas at three different stations, scoured every inch of engine bay to make sure nothing was touching....kept getting knock 1st 7-8 revisions. Remote tuning day for dyno rental revision 9 all knock went away, revisions 10, 11, and 12 gradually increasing timing. Ran it that way for about 2 years, redyno at a car show, was down close to 80 whp. Did compression test and leakdown and 5 of 8 cylinders were bad.
Later obtained an unlocked copy of tune, checked revision history, and found that knock sensors were desensitized to the point of unable to reduce motor. Perhaps got a bad tank of pump gas and even with octane booster every fill up wasn't able to save it.
Car was still making over 700 whp in hurt condition, so never really noticed it driving. No leaking fluids or odd noises.
OP
OP
Kaiden
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Damn man that’s very unfortunate I’m sorry, do you think mine could even be real knock though? On single gear pulls the car is absolutely perfect, no knock at all, I’m on E80. The shift is the only thing that was causing knock and it was only for a few hundred RPM then it would add timing again
stang17
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If it is only on shifts , it could indeed be false knock as clutch chatter/slipping can cause it.
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junits15
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There's kind of a misconception about false knock.
If you have potential false knock its not dangerous, if its false you just loose power, if its real the ECM will protect you.
The danger comes when tuners suspect you have false knock and then desensitize your knock sensors in order to prevent the KR system from pulling out timing. If it really is false knock its not a big deal and it is the right thing to do. However if they incorrectly assume false knock and desensitize your knock sensors you will eventually be rebuilding a motor.
Turning down the knock sensors is kind of a hack, the right thing to do is fix the false knock.
If you have potential false knock its not dangerous, if its false you just loose power, if its real the ECM will protect you.
The danger comes when tuners suspect you have false knock and then desensitize your knock sensors in order to prevent the KR system from pulling out timing. If it really is false knock its not a big deal and it is the right thing to do. However if they incorrectly assume false knock and desensitize your knock sensors you will eventually be rebuilding a motor.
Turning down the knock sensors is kind of a hack, the right thing to do is fix the false knock.
junits15
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately that doesn't necessarily mean there isn't any. I've had false knock from really weird things before. Even motor mounts.
The right test, which requires your tuner, would be to run a super low timing tune and see if the knock is still there. Ethanol should not knock on the stock timing curve, if it does, its false.
Sometimes it can't be fixed easily, but turning down the sensors puts you at risk. I don't like it when tuners do that to street cars.
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