Driver's window will not go back up intermittently.

[EmCel]

^ some Ford dealerships are really
clueless and rude. I had bad experiences at both that are near me. I hope you get it taken care of. So what if I didn't buy the car from you? I don't understand why that matters.

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[ORRadtech]

If it were mine I'd disconnect the negative battery terminal, turn the headlights on and let it set for half an hour or so. While I was waiting I'd hook a charger to the battery.
No guarantee that will help but with electrical gremlins resetting the computers is never a bad idea. And these cars are so very sensitive to a weak battery anyway it's often worth a try.

 

[pyrophilus]

^ some Ford dealerships are really
clueless and rude. I had bad experiences at both that are near me. I hope you get it taken care of. So what if I didn't buy the car from you? I don't understand why that matters.

I leased a '15, and had a bad steering rack (the car was fine and in alignment, but the steering wheel was moving back and forth slightly). I wanted someone to read for codes. The dealer in NJ (salesperson was GREAT, service dept awful) kept writing, "no problem found". I also had a problem where the power window would feel a bind, and reverse itself occasionally. I brought it in, and the tech must have used a screwdriver to pry the panels off, had marred edges on all trims (and he took off BOTH doors, when the problem was only with passenger side).

The dealer near my house (Sacarsdale, NY), they didn't even want to let me test drive a EB mustang back in '15, and when I tried to make appt for a recall, they asked if I bought the car there, and when I said no, he said 2weeks before he can see my car.

I wrote a letter to Ford saying I was done with Mustang and that it is a shame as it is an amazing car, but service is stuck in the 80's.

I was reached out by few folks from corporate, and they asked me if I can bring my car to Stamford Ford. When they plugged in the computer, they said the car threw error codes for the steering. They replaced the entire rack, and then also replaced the marred door panels.

When my '15 lease was up, I tried to buy a '18 EB, and ordered one through CT. I got tired of waiting for the car (it took months and then got stuck in a black hole after it was assembled). I ended up leasing a '17 EB.

Fast forward, I tried to get a 6MT '20 EB prem, but I cannot seem to find one except with HPP (and no offense to those that have it, but I'd rather get a GT if I wanted to spend that kind of money). Wife suggested that maybe we just guy a GT, so this is why I got my '19 GT Prem PP1 6MT...

The dealer in CT wasn't trying to be rude. I get it that they are busy... But the receptionist told me that they are booked in the system until Jan. and when I asked if I can talk to anyone she just connected me to a number that went straight to voicemail.

I really miss having an almost personal relationship with the dealer service. I knew the service writer for Nissan back in '90's who was so down to earth. My family and I purhcased Nissans every two years from his dealership. He was best friends with this tech and used to clown around all the time. He made sure that only this particular tech looked at my cars. I remember after tech looked at the car, the three of us would sit and talk about it, and tell me what was wrong and what could/should be done etc...

Unfortunately he retired in 2010. I would kill to have a relationsihp like that with a Ford service.

 

[pyrophilus]

If it were mine I'd disconnect the negative battery terminal, turn the headlights on and let it set for half an hour or so. While I was waiting I'd hook a charger to the battery.
No guarantee that will help but with electrical gremlins resetting the computers is never a bad idea. And these cars are so very sensitive to a weak battery anyway it's often worth a try.

I have a trip to dealer after work (it took a letter to the owner to make that happen around here). I asked them if they can see if there are any error codes. I was thinking of doing this when I get back home this evening.

 

[pyrophilus]

So I went to the dealer, the window got stuck again, and then when the tech ran the computer, there were no fault codes, and when he pulled the switch up a few times, it made the window work.

Their diagnosis? possibly a faulty switch.
So for now, it seems to work, but I think I will refrain from opening the window. I really want to open up the switch, and re-lube the internals with switch lube, but the service manager and tech told me to leave it alone and get it replaced under warranty.

Unfortunately, they really were that busy (service bay was completely packed with cars, and lot was filled with cars. The earliest they can take me was January, so I have decided to let them order the part and wait.

If it acts up again, I may just pop it open and re-lube it anyway as the service manager did say that they were going to replace it anyway. Thank you everyone for the inputs.

 

[Bikeman315]

get it replaced under warranty.

Do you have an extended warranty? If not your warranty ended 2 years ago.

I may just pop it open and re-lube it anyway

Please consider leaving it alone and let the dealer fix it. The odds of making it worse are higher than you fixing it.

 

[K4fxd]

This is a well documented problem. The dealer will tell you you have a bad window motor.

The problem is water gets into the motor plug. This causes what you describe and the other annoying symptom is the window will randomly go up and down that quarter inch. Mine did that. I was ready to take a shotgun to the door.

The fix is to take off the door panel unplug the window motor, take a can of compressed air, blow out the water in the plug then fill the plug with dielectric grease, plug it back in, reassemble the door panel and live in peace again.

If you cannot do this any shop will.

The dealer will replace the motor and fill the new plug with grease. This to get as much money for the warranty work as possible.

Verify they add the dielectric grease or the problem will return.

 

[pyrophilus]

Do you have an extended warranty? If not your warranty ended 2 years ago.

Actually, my profile had my 1st mustang listed (2015 EB silver).
This is in regards to my current car, a 2019 GT. It is still under the factory 3/36 warranty.

 

[Elp_jc]

The problem is water gets into the motor plug.

So this is still happening to 2019 cars? I remember reading that, but thought it was a thing of the past. So it's still a problem with ALL Mustangs? Haven't heard of this issue except that one time I read about it, so maybe it was a fluke on the OP's car??? But glad to know the cause and fix. Thanks man.

 

[pyrophilus]

So this is still happening to 2019 cars? I remember reading that, but thought it was a thing of the past. So it's still a problem with ALL Mustangs? Haven't heard of this issue except that one time I read about it, so maybe it was a fluke on the OP's car??? But glad to know the cause and fix. Thanks man.

I haven't gotten it fixed, but this weekend I am going to open up the door panel.

And I know that many people were concerned with some person deciding to rip into his Mustang with a leatherman... you know there are Mustang lovers here when people are concerned about somone defacing a door panel.

I would be concerned too. But I have done a lot of work on cars before I started to own mustangs (used to be active on maxima.org for 20 years and then on gencoupe.com for 5), and no, I wasnt going to start prying away at the trims using the leatherman (actually swisstool with ratchet driver) I was just getting worried about my baby sitting in the parkinglot with the driver's window down. Part of my buying a used GT over re-leasing a third EB is because I REALLY missed working on my car. I don't go aftermarket performance upgrades, but my thing is to keep the car looking/driving brand new (strut/brake replacements, control arm brushing (on my old nissans)).

Actually, if I remember correctly about the panels on my '15, I was able to just pry gently with my hands with no tools (same for window switch trim, pry up near door pull in the back).

Anyway. I will open up my panel this weekend and inspect the motor harness plug and report my findings. If the culprit is not the switch (but water infiltration in harness plug), I'd rather let the dealer know. Don't want a perfectly good door switch module going into landfill. I wonder if it is weird for someone with a V8 to be "environmentally conscious".

Going back to the original posting, I am thinking that the water is starting to make sense. I was guessing maybe water in switch because it only exhibits this after car was sitting in freezing cold for hours, and then it goes away. Maybe water freezing is expanding inside the harness plug, Nd expansion of ice has something to do with it. Not to mention, dirty water conducts, but dirty ice does not conduct.

 

[GeigerZ]

Didn't realize this was such a common problem after doing some Interwebbing..
I'm sure you might have this one, but posting the link to the door panel removal from this thread:
Window opening and closing..

Once the panel is removed, seems fairly easy to get to the connector in question.

 

[pyrophilus]

Didn't realize this was such a common problem after doing some Interwebbing..
I'm sure you might have this one, but posting the link to the door panel removal from this thread:
Window opening and closing..

Once the panel is removed, seems fairly easy to get to the connector in question.

Thanks! I am not sure if this was the video I saw years ago when I opened up the door on my '15 It looks the same. I was going to look for some videos.

I think after the panel removal, it's just that translucent plastic film, heat it up (as it's cold now), and then carefully open it to reveal the window motor (and hopefully the harness).

 

[pyrophilus]

So this is still happening to 2019 cars? I remember reading that, but thought it was a thing of the past. So it's still a problem with ALL Mustangs? Haven't heard of this issue except that one time I read about it, so maybe it was a fluke on the OP's car??? But glad to know the cause and fix. Thanks man.

I FINALLY got around to opening up my door panel and the window motor harness plug was sopping wet with water! After removing the harness and tilting it, a lot of water just ran out of the plug. So yes, it apparently is still a problem with 2019 cars. This is weird because my '15 EB and '17 EB did not have this problem.

I fixed it, and while I didn't take a video, I did take a lot of photos. I will post how I did it because I could not figure out where the window motor harness plug had the tab to press to remove it.

 

[rocky5517]

Are you going to continue using a pressure washer around the doors/windows? I wonder what kind of water volume and pressure that assembly was made to withstand?

 

[Bikeman315]

Are you going to continue using a pressure washer around the doors/windows? I wonder what kind of water volume and pressure that assembly was made to withstand?

I am also wondering how that much water is getting into the door. Can't be good for it. Could there be a seal missing or misaligned?

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