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poncho@home

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So I finally got a chance to get to my local 1/4 drag strip Saturday. I only had time for 3 runs, but I blew all 3!!!

I am running Hoosier DR2 245/45/17 drag radials. Earlier this summer at a 1/8 strip I was able to get consistent 1.90x 60 ft with 25 psi and no warm up, just cleaning them off. I was looking forward to getting to a full 1/4 mile strip that is known to be fast and have great track prep.

Man did I blow it big time.

First run 20 psi, cleaned of tires, spun off the line to a 2.30 60ft!!!!

Second run, 18 psi, used the factory line lock and warmed up the tires a bit, spun off the line to a 2.30 60ft :(

Third run, 18 psi, used line lock and warmed them up a bit more, spun off the line to a 2.30 60ft!!!

WTF! I looked over my in car camera videos to see what I might have done, I wasn't aggressive, I didn't dump the clutch, launch RPM was around 2500-3000, but each time it just spun crazy, I had to ease up and then get into again, but damage to the run was done by then.

In hindsight, I am fairly convinced that I simply did not warm up the tires enough. I was also, for some really stoooopid reason, focused far too much on my reaction time (cut great lights) and less at my launch technique. My old muscle memory from my years of bracket racing (20 years ago) kicked in and cutting the light took over my focus. No reason for it, it was just a test&tune I was doing. Could've used someone to pull me out my myopic view

For comparison, at the 1/8 mile in July :
1.90x 60ft
8.36 1/8

1/4 mile this Saturday:
2.30x 60ft
8.85 1/8
13.30 1/4
111.5 mph

So just extrapolating off the first 1/8 mile results, if I had duplicated that on Saturday at the 1/4 it should have been an easy 12.4-12.7

Only positives was MPH was 111+ mph and I had the above mentioned good reaction times (.017, .034, .126).

Downside I am still in hunt for a 12 second slip!!! I know the car is capable of mid 12s, but man it sucks!

Luckily I am secure enough in my masculinity to admit I drove like a real noob. Haha.

I hope I get another try at this before winter, but my weekends are usually booked.
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I daily drive on a set of drag radials, they work ok on the street. Take them to the track and the stock tires work better. Drag radials and a stick simply do not work.
 

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i'm assuming its the fact that your 1.9 was in heat of summer..sticker track, less power and Saturday was cool less sticky track and more power..the tires your using are incredibly short and small for a heavy car. you said you didn't dump the clutch but if u are going to use a radial with a stick u need to slip the clutch quite a bit at the range your launching at..i'd suggest the tallest 285 or bigger radial u can fit ..mickeys, unless you hafta drive on em….05 r's if you do..and if somethings not working change it up..launch off idle if you insist on keep a tire that's smaller than stock
 
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poncho@home

poncho@home

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Here is my "dashcam" videos of the runs. Unfortunately you can't see what the car is doing on the outside, but if you pay attention to the throttle, it shows me getting off it right after launch to back off the spinning and then getting back on it. Maybe I came off the clutch to aggressive (not enough slip), so I need to work on that. *And the 3rd run does not have missed shift, it was the OBD data acquisition that seemed to lag a bit and looks weird in the video when the shift is happens. There seems to be some wheel hop on the 2nd run as well

1st run

2nd run

3rd run
 

Malibu78

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Based on the videos, you might consider:

Doing ther burnout in 2nd Gear and do a 5-7 second burnout.
put the tire pressure down to 15-18 lbs.

I had a 2012 5.0 stick consistently ran 1.62-1.65 sixty foots with MT drag radials using the above method.
 

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poncho@home

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Based on the videos, you might consider:

Doing ther burnout in 2nd Gear and do a 5-7 second burnout.
put the tire pressure down to 15-18 lbs.

I had a 2012 5.0 stick consistently ran 1.62-1.65 sixty foots with MT drag radials using the above method.
Thanks for the tips. I was thinking about doing exactly that, a 2nd gear burnout. I am hoping to get to the track again before the winter.
 

brucelinc

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You won't want to hear this but I would sell or give away those Hoosiers and get some MT bias plys. I am pretty certain you would not spin ET street Rs.
 
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You won't want to hear this but I would sell or give away those Hoosiers and get some MT bias plys. I am pretty certain you would not spin ET street Rs.
Don't mind hearing this, 'tis my plan over the winter. Will also likely buy a set of front skinnies bias-ply to go along with it. Only issue is I don't really want a 28" tall tire and at this point only M&H sells a 26" (17") bias ply.

I was also considering trying the MT ET Street Rs 275/40/17 and work on my technique, but obviously not ideal for a stick car.

Do you think that with my stock gearing (3.31), at near stock levels a 28" wouldn't hinder overall results in ET and MPH?
 

brucelinc

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I have limited experience drag racing with a stick. Are radials supposed to be bad with a stick? I absolutely love my 275/40-17 MT drag radials but mine is an automatic.

I am not a fan of taller than stock tires on a car with no power adders and a 3.31 gear but others will probably disagree. At least they should stop your spinning and wheel hopping. That would be a big plus.
 

Malibu78

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I have limited experience drag racing with a stick. Are radials supposed to be bad with a stick? I absolutely love my 275/40-17 MT drag radials but mine is an automatic.

I am not a fan of taller than stock tires on a car with no power adders and a 3.31 gear but others will probably disagree. At least they should stop your spinning and wheel hopping. That would be a big plus.
One needs to be very careful when using drag radials with a stick and IRS. The slicks have give which allows the rear end to survive.
 

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brucelinc

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One needs to be very careful when using drag radials with a stick and IRS. The slicks have give which allows the rear end to survive.
Even with a stock or mildly tuned car? I could understand the danger with a blower but I see guys with sticks and drag radials at my tracks all the time and haven't heard of any issues.
 
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poncho@home

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One needs to be very careful when using drag radials with a stick and IRS. The slicks have give which allows the rear end to survive.
I have a set of GT350 half shafts going on the car this winter. They are stronger than the stock GT. I also plan on making sure I slip the clutch somewhat to help ease the pain. I'd rather go through a clutch prematurely than actually brake stuff.

My math might be off, but I think at stock (or mild tune) power levels and 3.31 gears a 28" tall might be a hindrance to drag strip performance.

Ideally I'd love to be able track test 26" vs 28" at the track, but I can't justify the expense involved.

I am keeping my eyes open for a good set of MT 26"x11.5"x17" ET Streets, the ones they used to make, to come up on my local classifieds. I had found a set a few weeks back and drove an hour out to get them, but they were all cracked when I got there and saw them in person :(

Some will come up over this winter, I am hopeful. Next I need to find some budget bias-ply 17" skinnies and wheels for the front. I don't want to put tons into my drag pack because I can only get to the track 2-4 times per season, if I am lucky.

I would just like to find a good setup, so I can be consistent and try and actually compete in the bracket racing when I do go to the track. Aside from my horrible launches last weekend, I feel I generally drive pretty good and manage to put together consistent runs on any given night, albeit bad ones this time around ;)
 

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I have a set of GT350 half shafts going on the car this winter. They are stronger than the stock GT. I also plan on making sure I slip the clutch somewhat to help ease the pain. I'd rather go through a clutch prematurely than actually brake stuff.

My math might be off, but I think at stock (or mild tune) power levels and 3.31 gears a 28" tall might be a hindrance to drag strip performance.

Ideally I'd love to be able track test 26" vs 28" at the track, but I can't justify the expense involved.

I am keeping my eyes open for a good set of MT 26"x11.5"x17" ET Streets, the ones they used to make, to come up on my local classifieds. I had found a set a few weeks back and drove an hour out to get them, but they were all cracked when I got there and saw them in person :(

Some will come up over this winter, I am hopeful. Next I need to find some budget bias-ply 17" skinnies and wheels for the front. I don't want to put tons into my drag pack because I can only get to the track 2-4 times per season, if I am lucky.

I would just like to find a good setup, so I can be consistent and try and actually compete in the bracket racing when I do go to the track. Aside from my horrible launches last weekend, I feel I generally drive pretty good and manage to put together consistent runs on any given night, albeit bad ones this time around ;)
My only experience with mt-82 was in my 14 with 3:73 and i'm sure the ratios in the tranny have changed since then...but imho no going tall won't hurt you much at all overall and will be tons better than what your messing with now.. 1st gear came really fast in the 14..
 
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Fornsure with the 3.73s, but my worry with 3.31s is the taller tires will actually change where on the run the shifts occur and will bring it across the line in 4th well below peak power.
 

Jay-rod427

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IMO stick shift cars slicks only and side step the clutch at 5,000 rpm+. Slicks will spin slightly which is what they are designed for. Faster and at the same time easier on the drivetrain.
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