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Drag Wheels/Tires

Leshik

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Hey guys im looking at 17 inch wheels for the back and i found that there are 17x8,17x9.5,17x10 wheels out there. which size has most tire choices? i have 6mt pp car.
Im thinking is it better to have lets say 17x9 wheel with thicker sidewal like 275/50 or 17x10 with 305/45?
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gjpundsack

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I suggest JMS 10x17 wheels and the M/T 305 drag radial.
 

ctandc72

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I've been digging around for the same info.
I assume since you have a 6 speed you are looking at Bias Ply tires?
 
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Leshik

Leshik

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I've been digging around for the same info.
I assume since you have a 6 speed you are looking at Bias Ply tires?
well thats what im not sure about. i heard that bias ply is best for manual (which i am) but i dont want to wobble at high speed
 

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ctandc72

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The bias versus drag radial argument has been around for a long time.

Think of this way - with an automatic, it's a fluid coupling to the engine. So that in itself can absorb some of the driveline shock when getting good traction on launch.

With a manual, your foot control the shock. There has to be some give somewhere or you WILL find the weak link - whether that's the clutch, a half shaft etc etc.

Driving to the track on DOT bia plys in rear and radials out back is NOT a big deal IF you don't drive it like you have your normal street tires on it. The bia ply tires has a SOFT sidewall. It gives - that lessens the driveline shock on launch, but also sacrifices handling.

In the late 80's, early 90's I regularly drove my '67 Chevelle, BBC 4 speed, 3.73 gears with "cheater" slicks and radials up front. Did it handle great? No...but it was a '67 Chevelle on pretty much stock suspension. Was it scary on the top end of 1/4 mile runs? Maybe the first time you feel the "sway" but it's manageable. Of course that car was manual steering and manual drum brakes as well.

The faster your mph on the top end in the 1/4 mile, the greater 'sway' you might be dealing with if mixing radials and bias.

Radials, even drag radials, tend to want to get warmed / heated up pretty good before launch, but still seem to launch better when you slip the clutch versus high rpm dumps. Once that DR starts to spin - it usually keeps spinning until you let off.

Bias ply - normally you don't have to heat them up much...just kinda clean 'em off. The give in the sidewall lessens the shock to the drive line, so high RPM clutch dumps can work....

A lot of this depends on how far you are driving to the track and how much power you are trying to put to the ground.

Just my 2 cents.

I'm more trying to find out what wheels (without dropping a ton of money) will actually work on the S550 rear and take a decent tire for the track and clear / offset etc.
 

ctandc72

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higdominator

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17x9 and a 28x11.5-17 MT bias ply or Hoosier slick. Especially on a stick car with steep gearing like the PP GT. Run them at 11-13psi cold and let er rip.

Only way I would run a radial is for Mexico roll racing where I'd probably hit 160-180 or daily driving with no dig runs on a prepped surface.
 

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RoadCone

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I have the Project 6GR's and just put on my drag combo last night. With a PP you will need an 18' rim to clear the brakes. I also went with the new MT 18x6 HD skinny for the front. I'm running the ET Street Biased ply in the the back.
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Zentrum

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I plan on 17" Darkstars with M /T 28s saves weight better traction win,win. Are tire sensors needed on dedicated drag wheels?
 

RoadCone

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I plan on 17" Darkstars with M /T 28s saves weight better traction win,win. Are tire sensors needed on dedicated drag wheels?

I didn't use tire sensors in my drag wheels... "low pressure" click ok lol
 

Zentrum

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Thanks for the info wasn't sure how the nannies would react.
 

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