Do you have audio questions?

[SQ_S550]

Thanks. Is the SYNC 3 MFT an expensive route? I don't know what this entails.

Im not absolutely positive, I believe around $800 for the nav units $500-$600 for the non nav. That should include the bezel, screen, and apim. You will however need to source an XM and Sat nav antenna if you go with a nav unit. Other options are the Chinese radios (Raxiom, Tesla style) Ive had the Moddiction radio that was identical to the Raxiom. It did the job but was no where neer as smooth or fluid as the OEM units, or the Kenwood unit I have now. If you just want the larger screen look into one of the Chinese radios, they start around $300 then go up. Best fit and function will be the OEM. Depending on budget an aftermarket radio could be the best for sound quality, and offer many more features.

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[Rangore]

Im not absolutely positive, I believe around $800 for the nav units $500-$600 for the non nav. That should include the bezel, screen, and apim. You will however need to source an XM and Sat nav antenna if you go with a nav unit. Other options are the Chinese radios (Raxiom, Tesla style) Ive had the Moddiction radio that was identical to the Raxiom. It did the job but was no where neer as smooth or fluid as the OEM units, or the Kenwood unit I have now. If you just want the larger screen look into one of the Chinese radios, they start around $300 then go up. Best fit and function will be the OEM. Depending on budget an aftermarket radio could be the best for sound quality, and offer many more features.

SQ_S550 Thank you very much. My main concern is that factory controls are not lost (except voice). Nav is a nice to have, but not required. What set up do you run? You mentioned kenwood. I’m not opposed to after market. I was thinking around 800-1000 for total head unit costs. I’m thinking of some mid range focals for the front speakers. I’m open to suggestions since I’m no expert in this stuff.

 

[Cathul]

idatalink will come up with a dash kit that integrates an aftermarket headunit into the stock bezel. Of course you‘ll need an idatalink RR and a compatible headunit for this as well for integration of the climate controls. I only wish idatalink would support non-US headunits as well (or rather the companies like Kenwood, Alpine and so on would support the AR in Europe).

 

[SQ_S550]

SQ_S550 Thank you very much. My main concern is that factory controls are not lost (except voice). Nav is a nice to have, but not required. What set up do you run? You mentioned kenwood. I’m not opposed to after market. I was thinking around 800-1000 for total head unit costs. I’m thinking of some mid range focals for the front speakers. I’m open to suggestions since I’m no expert in this stuff.

I'm Currently just using a Metra kit with an older Kenwood DNN-9255 nav multimedia unit. However my last few vehicles used an iPad for the main source so once my main install is done I will be doing an Ipad Mini. Focals are nice when tuned, I have some K2s and Access components laying around. Another great component set that wont break the bank is the Morel Maximo and Morel Maximo Ultras. The tweeters are real smooth and you don't get the sharpness from a lot of metal dome tweeters.

 

[Rangore]

Has the Metra Kit been reliable?

 

[Cathul]

Has the Metra Kit been reliable?

I found the climate controls not as good as the stock ones. When sun is shining you cannot see anything on the small screen and somehow the controls always switched between ice cold and warm even in hot summer. In addition the blower was always running faster at the same outside temperature than with the stock control. Tried several firmwares as recommended by Metra support, but unfortunately they didn't get it right.

 

[SQ_S550]

Has the Metra Kit been reliable?

As @Cathul mentioned, it works just not near as well as the OEM.

 

[STG302]

Gents I have a 17’ GT with a strange audio issue. If I’m sitting in the car listening to music with the engine off and the wife opens the passenger door the audio system turns off. Is this normal? Drives me nuts having to turn it back on again every time she hopes out of the car.

 

[2017GBGTPP]

Gents I have a 17’ GT with a strange audio issue. If I’m sitting in the car listening to music with the engine off and the wife opens the passenger door the audio system turns off. Is this normal? Drives me nuts having to turn it back on again every time she hopes out of the car.

This is normal. The idea is that the audio doesn't shut off when you turn the car off, but instead when you exit the car. I don't think they took into account somebody intentionally listening to the radio with the car off...

 

[STG302]

This is normal. The idea is that the audio doesn't shut off when you turn the car off, but instead when you exit the car. I don't think they took into account somebody intentionally listening to the radio with the car off...

Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah I guess they didn’t account for that. No problem.

 

[brandonc]

Question! I have upgraded from a 2016 ecoboost with 6 speaker Base system to a 2018 ecoboost with premium 101a 9 speaker system. I did a sub, amp, LC2i install on the 2016 by tapping the LC2i to the rear deck speakers (Green and White wire left rear +, yellow brown left rear -, brown white right rear +, brown blue right rear -) my question is, are the speakers the same colors in my new 2018 premium?? Also, is there a better place to grab signal from?? I didn’t notice any problems with me grabbing from the rear especially with the LC2is various adjustments to help with bass roll off, but if there is any advantage to grabbing off another place (perhaps the drivers side kick panel for pre amp?) I have no problem and would actually want to think about doing this one differently

 

[dguzzi]

I've tried searchin but I don't find it....Is there a switched power line(only on with the car or head unit) in the trunk? Maybe wiring for the factory sub? (which I don't have) Thanks for your help.

 

[mindys]

Hello all,

I got a question: I have a 2015 Mustang GT with the 9 speaker system. The head unit is replaced with a Sync 3 unit. I recently installed a sub and amp that I got for free from a buddy:

Amp: Kenwood KAC-7202 (2-channel, 150W @ 4 ohms/channel, 230W @ 2 ohms/channel, or 460W @ 4 ohms/bridged)

Sub: 12" Kicker 03CVR124 (4 ohm DVC, 400W) - Wired in series at 8 ohms

Box: Sealed, approx. volume 1.3 cu.ft. no leaks

Tapped into rear speakers using an LC2i (Bass threshold maximized), then to amp, then to sub. I oscoped the signal before the LC2i, after the LC2i and after the amp and absolutely no clipping at max volume (30). Have the gain/input sensitivity set so that sub is receiving 400W at max volume.

While I hear the bass nicely, I don't really feel it, and also the box takes up space inefficiently in the trunk. I have been thinking of getting a Zenclosure rear fire box for two 10" subs that would be 4 ohm DVC and 300W RMS. I would wire each sub in parallel to have a 2 ohm impedance and then connect them to each channel on the amp that I have (so it would be 230W @ 2 ohms for each sub). My question is would these make me "feel" the bass more than the setup that I have now? I calculated that running the subs at a lower impedance would mean more current through the voice coils, so it should be more excursion on the cone plus more surface area to move the air. I just do not want to spend the money because I am not sure what this would mean in the real world. Anyone with some experience mind chiming in? Thank you!

Forgot to mention: amp’s LPF is set to about 100 Hz right now. I believe it is a 24 dB/ octave filter.

 

[Rippermac]

May I suggest you wire the speaker for a 4 ohm load, bridge the amp to maximize your available wattage. The enclosure seems to be a the minimum range for a sealed box and that could be affecting the overall ability to 'feel' the bass. I am by no means an expert but it would seem you are only driving the sub with approx 75 watts@8 ohms.

 

[mindys]

May I suggest you wire the speaker for a 4 ohm load, bridge the amp to maximize your available wattage. The enclosure seems to be a the minimum range for a sealed box and that could be affecting the overall ability to 'feel' the bass. I am by no means an expert but it would seem you are only driving the sub with approx 75 watts@8 ohms.

Speaker cannot be wired for 4 ohm impedance. You can either wire the two voice coils in parallel (which would equate to 2 ohm impedance) or series (8 ohm impedance).

Amp is already bridged, allowing it to put out up to 460W of power to the sub. No, the sub should be receiving approximately 400 watts as I have it right now. At max volume the speaker wires from the amp that would go to the sub measure at around 56.1 volts. Then if you calculate for power: P=V^2/R ====> P=(56.1V)^2/8 ohms = 393.4 watts.

Enclosure is above the minimum suggested for this speaker (minimum is 1.0 cu.ft.).

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