Do you have audio questions?

[gtv6capri]

Audio Question for some help please. 2017 5.0GT basic stereo. My stereo and HVAC has no power. The stereo screen powers on and I can control volume with steering wheel only. The volume and tune buttons do not work. None of the heated/cooled seat buttons work, AC and Heat does not work, toggles for drive mode and steering do not work, and also the backup camera does not appear. Only the start button and hazard toggle has power. None of the buttons even light up.

I have checked all fuses and even replaced all fuses relating to stereo and Gateway module. Still nothing. Anyone have any suggestions or had the same trouble? (the above post was copied from another members to save me typing it all out, but he has not responded or there was no solution posted)

To put you in the loop how it happened, I had the rear loom section in the boot torn out but re-soldered, since then these issues appeared. any help greatly appreciated

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[Emilbadal]

Well the damage must have been more extensive than only wires, if resoldering was done right, then your next place to look is at the FCIM(Sync Bezel), there might be damage in the hardware. Easiest way would be to source an FCIM and try that on your car. If replacement works then your FCIM is bad, if not then problem is still in the wiring, either there's a break in wires or the pin out is wrong

 

[gtv6capri]

Cheers for the fast reply, do you happen to know which plug (location) supplies the power to the FCIM?

 

[Emilbadal]

That I don't know, Checkout the Sync3 conversion thread, you should be able to find out. Usually it's the thicker wires on the sides of the sockets that carry power and ground. I emphasize on usually

 

[Tyeayo1]

First off, thank you!

Question:
I have a 2018 GT Premium with the 12 speaker shaker pro. I've replaced the 8" sub with the rockford fosgate ps3d2-8 and it sounds alot tighter. I was wondering if I could replace the sub amp with an aftermarket mono amp, and reuse the wiring thats currently used to connect the stock amp, minus the 12v obviously, I would run that to the battery separate. Would an aftermarket amp be essentially, plug and play, utilizing only the the wire lume to the stock amp?

Thanks again!

 

[20ducks]

Tyeayo1



I have the B&O 12 speaker system installed in my GT. I disconnected the 2+2 wiring that fed the 12" sub. Anemic is too kind of a term to use for that sub/amp. I took the 2+2 wiring and made it into a 1+1 (+'s and -'s) and connected those wires to a LOC then out to a separate amp. The Amp is a Pioneer 400 watt sub amp. I fiddled with the gain controls from the LOC--->Amp--->Wired gain control to the center console--->10" Power Acoustic Amp to the sub mounted in a ported box. As expected there was a major difference. The drawback to my system is that my car is a convertible so low frequencies don't have a natural escape to the seating compartment. But, the low frequencies have their own way of pounding the front. It works for me.

 

[Emilbadal]

First off, thank you!

Question:
I have a 2018 GT Premium with the 12 speaker shaker pro. I've replaced the 8" sub with the rockford fosgate ps3d2-8 and it sounds alot tighter. I was wondering if I could replace the sub amp with an aftermarket mono amp, and reuse the wiring thats currently used to connect the stock amp, minus the 12v obviously, I would run that to the battery separate. Would an aftermarket amp be essentially, plug and play, utilizing only the the wire lume to the stock amp?

Thanks again!

Other than running the 12v from your battery, figuring out the remote turn on is the biggest challenge. Not necessarily finding remote turn on but not getting turn on or turn off thumps is the challenge. I personally found an ACC switched 12v in the passenger kick panel/fuse box. I've tried the voltage converters like TR-4 or programmable TR-12 but with both I got turn off pops which became annoying really quickly. The downside to the way that I'm suggesting is that your subwoofer won't do extended play (when the music keeps playing and you shut off the engine and not open the door) your sub will turn off because it has ACC remote turn on. But if I was you, I would leave it a lone and take my win with changing the subwoofer and getting some improvement over the factory one. And the reason is, once you give your sub more power, then the rest of your system will feel lacking and that's where the rabbit hole starts....not worth it really

 

[20ducks]

PAC TR-4 may be your answer.
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Low-Voltage-Remote-Trigger/dp/B00LQNG1VC

 

[Silver550]

I want to get a new sub box designed for my mustang and I wanted to know if anyone with a Zenclosure could send me the measurements? I am specifically looking for the angle that rests against the rear seats. I wanted to try and purchase a sub box design for a 4th or 6th order bandpass box that shoots all output into the cab with one of my rear seats folded down at all times.

 

[17Magnetic5.0]

Finally I found a thread to ask my questions. I’ve been recently upgrading speakers just the rear for now with jbl gx 628. I couldn’t find anything else that would be a good quality 2 ohm speaker at the time (of course after the fact I discovered the kappa 62ix but those jbl speakers will have to do for now). So now to the question part, I’m looking for quality replacement that are basically direct fits for the front 3.5 and 6.5 as well as the center dash speaker. My only requirements are that they are basically plug and play with just metra adapters and are the correct ohms. I believe the 6.5 is 2 ohm and I’m not too sure about the 3.5. What are my options?

 

[m3incorp]

Here are a couple, though they are 2 way components....but you could use the 6.5 for the doors.

CL-61A.2-25 PRO - CDT Audio Classic 2-Ohm 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers

Powerbass L2-6C 6.5" Component Speaker

Finally I found a thread to ask my questions. I’ve been recently upgrading speakers just the rear for now with jbl gx 628. I couldn’t find anything else that would be a good quality 2 ohm speaker at the time (of course after the fact I discovered the kappa 62ix but those jbl speakers will have to do for now). So now to the question part, I’m looking for quality replacement that are basically direct fits for the front 3.5 and 6.5 as well as the center dash speaker. My only requirements are that they are basically plug and play with just metra adapters and are the correct ohms. I believe the 6.5 is 2 ohm and I’m not too sure about the 3.5. What are my options?

 

[Rockytop77]

I have an audio question, I was wondering which speaker is responsible for the door chimes when you open the door, and also the one for the touch screen beeps on a 2017 GT premium.

 

[20ducks]

I believe it will either be in Forscan or your car's setting. I am curious as well.

 

[m3incorp]

Not sure, but think it is the center speaker. If you disconnect it, then it will reroute to the instrument panel sounds.

I have an audio question, I was wondering which speaker is responsible for the door chimes when you open the door, and also the one for the touch screen beeps on a 2017 GT premium.

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