Do you have audio questions?

[chowman90]

Have a question. Want to run a Dayton DSP using harnesses from Hextal. I purchased the connectors that bypass the factory amp/processor. I've replaced my tweeters and 6.5 door speakers as well as the 3.5 doors. I don't want to run the rears but also add a sub.

First - any idea the which is the positive and negative speakers wires coming from Hextall's harnesses?
Second - any idea how to wire the DSP to the amps? I have a dedicated sub amp, and two 4 channel amps.

Any responses are much appreciated. My car is all apart. LOL

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[POJ 1]

Can you please explain to me how I can play the radio in my Bullitt continuously while I am, say, cleaning the car
If i use the accessories setting on the ignition button the music automatically stops after about 10 minutes
Many thks

 

[Canoman]

Have a question. Want to run a Dayton DSP using harnesses from Hextal. I purchased the connectors that bypass the factory amp/processor. I've replaced my tweeters and 6.5 door speakers as well as the 3.5 doors. I don't want to run the rears but also add a sub.

First - any idea the which is the positive and negative speakers wires coming from Hextall's harnesses?
Second - any idea how to wire the DSP to the amps? I have a dedicated sub amp, and two 4 channel amps.

Any responses are much appreciated. My car is all apart. LOL

You have RCA's coming from Hextall's harness, right? Those RCA connections go into the DSP inputs. The Dayton is a 4x8 with 4 channels of input, 8 channels of output. So your inputs would be all 4 RCA's that come out of Hextall's harness.

Then RCA cables go from the DSP output channels to the amplifier input channels. You'll have to configure the DSP to provide the right amplifier input inside it's software using a laptop or a combo of their bluetooth dongle and a tablet. Check out this video on the Dayton DSP. The guys at 5-Star have a bunch of videos about different DSP's and how to configure them. They talk about how to configure the Dayton, but watching their other DSP videos can give you added insight as to how they all tend to work. Here's another useful video specifically about the DSP-408.

In the software, you'll configure what DSP output channels you want to go to the amplifier for the mids/highs, and what channels you want to go to the subwoofer amplifier. Then, it's just a matter of connecting the right channels to the right amplifiers with RCA's. You have to tell it which channels are which, in the "mixer" section of the software.

For a fully active front stage+sub, you need 2 channels out of the DSP for tweeters, 2 channels for midrange 3.5's, and 2 channels for the 6.5's, plus 2 channels for the subwoofer that are linked. That takes up all 8 channels of output from your DSP. Therefore, you can't really run rears, even if you wanted to. You have 2 extra channels of amplification that won't be connected.

 

[chowman90]

Thanks Canoman! I did manage to get a hold of "Hextall". He told me which wires are positive and which are negative for the speaker leads. Ill watch the videos and see if I can go from there. Thanks again!

 

[Emilbadal]

Hi there, I have a question regarding the door chimes, ever since I added my 4 channel amp, the door chimes started coming from the IPC(guage cluster) rather than speakers, does anyone know how to revert them back to the speakers?

 

[ahl395]

Hi there, I have a question regarding the door chimes, ever since I added my 4 channel amp, the door chimes started coming from the IPC(guage cluster) rather than speakers, does anyone know how to revert them back to the speakers?

I believe this is an option in Forscan. Look up the As-Built Forscan guide

 

[Emilbadal]

I have looked it up and the parameter is set to default in forscan(speakers)- But still don’t get them on speakers

 

[m3incorp]

Hi Canoman, I have a question. I have a 2019 GT 401a Premium with the optional B&O audio system. I've already replaced the B&O subwoofer with the JL Audio 10W1v3-4 in the stock enclosure. It still doesn't give me what I want for bass. Do you happen to know how many watts the stock amp is putting out to the subwoofer? I doubted, if it is more than 40 watt range, I would probably install a single Kicker 12" Comp R subwoofer Enclosure in the trunk area and use the speaker connection wires that are currently plugged into the JL Audio Subwoofer and wire in a Rock Fosgate 300 watt RMS at 4 ohm. That box works great in my Fusion and I would order another one if it is doable. Thank you.

 

[StangTime]

Hi there, I have a question regarding the door chimes, ever since I added my 4 channel amp, the door chimes started coming from the IPC(guage cluster) rather than speakers, does anyone know how to revert them back to the speakers?

I believe this is an option in Forscan. Look up the As-Built Forscan guide

I have looked it up and the parameter is set to default in forscan(speakers)- But still don’t get them on speakers

Any further info on this? I am planning on removing the factory amp. If the factory amp is disconnected, the car assumes the amp is dead and all chimes are routed to the instrument panel? Is there a way to override that so chimes go through the after market amp?

There is a Forscan code to force all chimes through the instrument panel. But I can't find one to force them to the amp.
Sound Location for Vehicle Chimes:
720-01-01 xxxx xxxX xxxx

4 (Forwarded to ACM / Vehicle Speakers - Default)
0 (IPC Internal Speaker Only)

 

[StangTime]

So last night I pulled the brown plug from the amp to see what happens. I plan to put a Hertz DSP where the factory amp is when I upgrade my system.
Chimes and backup beeps were re-directed to the speaker in the instrument panel. It sounded just fine to me. Bye-bye factory amp and good riddance! That makes interfacing the DSP so much easier now.

 

[Emilbadal]

Any further info on this? I am planning on removing the factory amp. If the factory amp is disconnected, the car assumes the amp is dead and all chimes are routed to the instrument panel? Is there a way to override that so chimes go through the after market amp?

There is a Forscan code to force all chimes through the instrument panel. But I can't find one to force them to the amp.
Sound Location for Vehicle Chimes:
720-01-01 xxxx xxxX xxxx

4 (Forwarded to ACM / Vehicle Speakers - Default)
0 (IPC Internal Speaker Only)

No news on it yet! I have asked around but I haven't found a concrete solution to it. My car even with the parameter that you mentioned set to 4, still plays the chimes through the IPC speaker. According to the research that I have done, it seems that the ACM looks for a certain amount of resistance on its channel output, and since the input resistance is so high on my amp (20K Ohms) basically the ACM thinks it's not connected to anything(Open circuit) and that's why it routes the signal to the IPC speaker. I believe AudioControl has a range of accessories to trick the amp to think that the speakers are connected to it's output. They are called load generators and signal stabilizers. They have 3 models and I don't know which model will work on our cars. In their detail video they also mention that these load generator devices can help with noise floor and clean up the signal as well. I have not given these a try yet though.

 

[StangTime]

No news on it yet! I have asked around but I haven't found a concrete solution to it. My car even with the parameter that you mentioned set to 4, still plays the chimes through the IPC speaker. According to the research that I have done, it seems that the ACM looks for a certain amount of resistance on its channel output, and since the input resistance is so high on my amp (20K Ohms) basically the ACM thinks it's not connected to anything(Open circuit) and that's why it routes the signal to the IPC speaker. I believe AudioControl has a range of accessories to trick the amp to think that the speakers are connected to it's output. They are called load generators and signal stabilizers. They have 3 models and I don't know which model will work on our cars. In their detail video they also mention that these load generator devices can help with noise floor and clean up the signal as well. I have not given these a try yet though.

You are correct. The factory amp does a load check on the outputs to ensure warning chimes will be heard. If the load isn't detected the can bus redirects the chimes to the instrument panel.

I found something in the F150 forscan spreadsheet that might help.
727-01-01-XXXX-1XXX-XXXX (default vaule)
Change the 1 to a "D". This disables front/rear speaker detection on the amp and chimes should go to your aftermarket amp.

 

[Emilbadal]

You are correct. The factory amp does a load check on the outputs to ensure warning chimes will be heard. If the load isn't detected the can bus redirects the chimes to the instrument panel.

I found something in the F150 forscan spreadsheet that might help.
727-01-01-XXXX-1XXX-XXXX (default vaule)
Change the 1 to a "D". This disables front/rear speaker detection on the amp and chimes should go to your aftermarket amp.

I have tried that before and unfortunately it doesn't work, because instead of speakers it looks for the factory amplifier and that throws a DTC error "Unable to connect to Digital Audio Control Module C" and still it redirects the chimes to the IPC speaker. iT's a damned if you do or damned if you don't situation with Mustang's audio upgrade. I sent a question to AudioControl support asking about their Load Generator thingy and hopefully they will answer. I will let you know how it goes

 

[StangTime]

If you remove the OEM amp completely then the car must send chimes to the instrument panel. No way around that, however, if you leave the OEM amp installed and disconnect the speaker connections only (extract the pins from the connectors) then the Forscan code should work. That's a lot of work to keep chimes playing in high fidelity. I have listened to the chimes and warning beeps through the dash and it sounds fine.

 

[Emilbadal]

If you remove the OEM amp completely then the car must send chimes to the instrument panel. No way around that, however, if you leave the OEM amp installed and disconnect the speaker connections only (extract the pins from the connectors) then the Forscan code should work. That's a lot of work to keep chimes playing in high fidelity. I have listened to the chimes and warning beeps through the dash and it sounds fine.

In my case, My car being a V6 didn't come with a separate factory amp. I'm not really trying to bring the chimes back to the speakers, I agree wth you that the IPC speaker chimes are fine. My biggest annoyances with the factory ACM are, having relatively high noise floor and also poping the speakers every time it shuts off...All I can say is I have tried "everything" within reasonable cost and nothing compensated for the crappy build of the ACM. As I said before , the last hope for it, are the Load Generators from Audio control which is not gonna happen anytime soon. I have Sync3 conversion so aftermarket headunits are out of equation for me also.

I hope you have better luck than I had, let us know how your audio system turns out.

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