Dipstick oil level question

[stannypack]

Did an oil change on my 22 GT, checked the dipstick and the level was just a bit above the top dot. Is it fine to add 300ml (0.32 qts) of ceratec without any overflowing?

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[MiamiGT350]

Probably not a good idea. If it's above the top (full) dot, you are already a little over-filled.

If you haven't run the engine around a few miles, I would do that and re-check your oil level a second time.

 

[Skye]

I wouldn't add more still either.

I'm sure there is an engineered amount of give/take with respect to limits, but IDK what they are and IDK what all could happen. I'm aware of some things which could occur, none of which are positive.

If checking cold and the level is already a bit over, it will be higher still when hot, as oil expands.

I realize it can be a PITA, but backing the drain plug out and letting a bit go is probably the quickest way to remove some now.

In the future, another Member had a good suggestion: he removes some of the new oil from the jug and adds the Ceratec to the container. During the oil change, there's no doubt.

For measuring devices, check out the bakery section in the store; there are often several types of cooking tools for measuring which will make it easy to ensure your exchanging the right amounts.

From the Ford Owners' Manual, 2022:

"If the engine does not start, runs rough, experiences a decrease in engine performance, experiences excess fuel consumption or produces excessive exhaust smoke, check for the following:

• Incorrect engine oil level."

"Note: Do not add oil further than the maximum mark. Oil levels above the maximum mark may cause engine damage."

"ENGINE OIL CHECK
1. Make sure that your vehicle is on level ground.
2. Check the oil level before starting the engine, or switch the engine off after warm up and wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain into the oil pan.
3. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean, lint-free cloth.
4. Reinstall the dipstick and make sure it is fully seated.
5. Remove the dipstick again to check the oil level."

On oil expanding when hot, FWIW, if I check my oil cold, it is one "X"down from the top "-" horizontal line. If I check the oil when hot, after waiting 10 minutes, is at the top of the "X"s and at the top "-".

 

[stannypack]

I checked it right after filling (while still on ramps). Will check it again today when cold and after driving around on flat surface to make sure.

I let both the oil and filter drain until it was just droplets though so maybe it was the ramps

 

[MiamiGT350]

The circle closest to the handle on the dipstick is full, so i think you are pretty spot on with the correct oil amount. We are just suggesting you not over-fill it.

The cross-hatch section is one quart. So if you are in the middle of the hatch marks, then you are "half a quarter low". Similarly bottom of the hatch marks is "one quart low."

 

[Keeffa]

Did an oil change on my 22 GT, checked the dipstick and the level was just a bit above the top dot. Is it fine to add 300ml (0.32 qts) of ceratec without any overflowing?

That will be fine.

 

[Farkel]

... maybe it was the ramps

For sure check it only when the car is level. Depending on where the dipstick goes into the pan, any angle could significantly affect the reading.

 

[KeyLime]

Don't over think it. You're talking about adding 0.3 quarts to a 10 quart oil capacity. Yes, that's above the Ford specification but is it a big deal? I doubt it is. But hey, you're already adding a non-approved oil additive based on comments on a owner forum. Go full bore and toss it in.

 

[Biggus Dickus]

That 300 ml of Ceratec represents 3% of your total oil fill. Plus, it likes to stick to metal. I doubt such a minimal overfill is significant.

 

[TEAsGrabber]

So I did a full oil and filter change this week. I bought 15 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 because it was almost cheaper on Amazon to buy 15 quarts than 10 quarts. I pulled the plug and removed the filter and let the car sit on jackstands almost 24 hrs. to drain.
The first thing I noticed was the OEM filter was quite smaller than the MotorCraft FL-500S that I bought. Second thing was that after almost 24 hrs. the pan was still dripping a couple drops a minute.
When I picked my car up in Detroit I specifically instructed the dealer to stash the car in the service bay, so no others test drove it. They sent me a picture of the car stashed with an odometer showing 6 miles. I joked with the sales manager that if it was moved before I got there the deal was off and I'd turn my Benz around a head back to BAMA with all that cash in my pocket! LOL
Anyways when I got there the car was stashed as pictured. I inspected the car to include pulling the dipstick to check oil level. It was dead center on the top hole on the dipstick. That was the factory fill.
I put the plug back in. spun the new filter on and filled up the crankcase with 10 quarts of new oil. I started it and drove it around the block, put it back in my garage and said goodnight!
Pulled the dipstick the next morning and just as I had thought the level was just up past the lower hole. I added a 1/4 quart, rinsed and repeated. Pulled the dipstick this morning after sitting all night and it was just a tick below the top hole. I added another 1/8th of a quart. Waited a hour and re-checked. Dead on where it was when delivered from Flatrock! That's my baseline and I'm sticking to it.
No idea if it's the bigger filter or? but I just poured the old oil from the drain pan and it filled both 5 quart containers. I was right in the middle of the dipstick after 5000 miles.

 

[chuckhammer]

My understanding is that 10 qts with an FL-500S puts it dead center between the two holes on the dipstick.

 

[K4fxd]

I like to run them at the low mark, less windage.

 

[Dana Pants]

I like to run them at the low mark, less windage.

I achieved a zero oil pressure condition twice autocrossing with the oil pretty close to the top mark. Basically just brake and then turn right. Running low for windage is debatable.

 

[K4fxd]

I achieved a zero oil pressure condition twice autocrossing with the oil pretty close to the top mark. Basically just brake and then turn right. Running low for windage is debatable.

Problems with pan baffling?

Are you sure it wasn't from foaming oil?

Back in the day people would use HV oil pumps and suck all the oil out of the pan.

 

[Dana Pants]

Problems with pan baffling?

Are you sure it wasn't from foaming oil?

Back in the day people would use HV oil pumps and suck all the oil out of the pan.

Dipstick looked fine in grid. No sign of foam. Oil pressure came back immediately but car was in weird limp mode until a key cycle. Motor is totally stock.

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