Differential rebuild and gearing question

[PC_GUARD]

I am either going to buy a complete rear section drop out, or an empty dif. I have never done a rear gear setup but Im willing to do it.

Besides obvious tools and proper torque wrenches and i know I need a beam style to check pre-load.

What other tools should i have to do the job?

Should i buy ford OE bearings etc or is there a better option? Should I have the new gears polished and trued?


Lastly: I intend to go centri/FI in the very near future. Should I stick to 3.73's or go to 3.55's? The car is a street car only, not dragging other than some hits in mexico etc I am more of a cruiser corner carver sort of driver.

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[shogun32]

Lastly: I intend to go centri/FI in the very near future. Should I stick to 3.73's or go to 3.55's?

then just buy a low mile used pumpkin or a new one since those come in 3.55. I think most FI guys will also say 3.31 would be a better choice.

My understanding is there's a bit of a knack to getting these things right and just because you have tools doesn't mean you will be successful. Personally I would ring up Steeda, and ask if their pumpkin builder can supervise you doing your own build. Drag all your parts up there and set up on their bench and build it.

 

[Tinpot]

Are you aware of this thread ?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/inside-the-super-8-8-rear-end.150514/

 

[WD Pro]

I am either going to buy a complete rear section drop out, or an empty dif. I have never done a rear gear setup but Im willing to do it.

Besides obvious tools and proper torque wrenches and i know I need a beam style to check pre-load.

What other tools should i have to do the job?

Should i buy ford OE bearings etc or is there a better option? Should I have the new gears polished and trued?


Lastly: I intend to go centri/FI in the very near future. Should I stick to 3.73's or go to 3.55's? The car is a street car only, not dragging other than some hits in mexico etc I am more of a cruiser corner carver sort of driver.

I have the full rebuild instructions if you need them - just PM me your email and I will send them over on Monday (they are on my work pc)

WD

 

[PC_GUARD]

then just buy a low mile used pumpkin or a new one since those come in 3.55. I think most FI guys will also say 3.31 would be a better choice.

My understanding is there's a bit of a knack to getting these things right and just because you have tools doesn't mean you will be successful. Personally I would ring up Steeda, and ask if their pumpkin builder can supervise you doing your own build. Drag all your parts up there and set up on their bench and build it.

I'd prefer to keep the torsen dif, that a Trac lok

 

[PC_GUARD]

Ive decided that I am going to find a complete drop out/cradle and all with low miles. It makes it easier to do all the dif re-enforcement with it all out on the ground, same with the rest of the suspension stuff i'd like to do. So if I can find a sub 20k mil dropout it just makes good sense.

If I were to get a newer drop out (like 18-20) do i need to change drive shaft to accommodate the pinion? Is that the consensus?

 

[Biggsy]

Ive decided that I am going to find a complete drop out/cradle and all with low miles. It makes it easier to do all the dif re-enforcement with it all out on the ground, same with the rest of the suspension stuff i'd like to do. So if I can find a sub 20k mil dropout it just makes good sense.

If I were to get a newer drop out (like 18-20) do i need to change drive shaft to accommodate the pinion? Is that the consensus?

You should just have to change the flange on the diff side to match your driveshaft. I think it’s like $115. I am about to do the same

 

[PC_GUARD]

You should just have to change the flange on the diff side to match your driveshaft. I think it’s like $115. I am about to do the same

My "concern" is having axles and all setting the pre-load correctly. I suppose the way to do it (yes im using a post to think out loud lol ) would be establishing the drag without brakes with the beam tq wrench. I guess you could establish it with an average of 7 or 9. Might be a good time to install a solid shim, assuming those are available for the super 8.8 and get rid of the crush sleeve.

 

[Biggsy]

My "concern" is having axles and all setting the pre-load correctly. I suppose the way to do it (yes im using a post to think out loud lol ) would be establishing the drag without brakes with the beam tq wrench. I guess you could establish it with an average of 7 or 9. Might be a good time to install a solid shim, assuming those are available for the super 8.8 and get rid of the crush sleeve.

I see. To be fair, I have the same concerns but driveshaft may be the best way to go

 

[PC_GUARD]

I see. To be fair, I have the same concerns but driveshaft may be the best way to go

Im pretty sure that would be the way to go about. Spin the pinion prior and hit the same number after the swap...

I am ocd about RR noise, I absolutely loathe any rattles and noises, that shouldnt be there. Nvh ok fine, but howling, whirring, etc it drives me crazy.

 

[Stang8]

I have the full rebuild instructions if you need them - just PM me your email and I will send them over on Monday (they are on my work pc)

WD

This is what you need. I used this tech info. Installed 3.31‘s in my Torsen. I knocked 6 tenths off from my 60-130 from the gear swap alone. went from 3.73 to 3.31 In my 2015 manual car. No noise. All is good. Thanks again!

 

[PC_GUARD]

Ive noticed my noise is intermittent, im starting to think its an oil issue. Could i have been low and replaced with the same amount of low oil? If it doesnt leak why would it be low to begin with?

Is there a slightly lighter oil worth looking at?

 

[WD Pro]

Ive noticed my noise is intermittent, im starting to think its an oil issue. Could i have been low and replaced with the same amount of low oil? If it doesnt leak why would it be low to begin with?

Is there a slightly lighter oil worth looking at?

Are you a Torsen or a trac loc ?

In my experience, a trac loc can be very noisy if it’s had its oil swapped and it’s not to spec …

WD

 

[PC_GUARD]

Are you a Torsen or a trac loc ?

In my experience, a trac loc can be very noisy if it’s had its oil swapped and it’s not to spec …

WD

Torsen

When I changed the fluid, I used the fm and installed Exactly what came out.

When it's "hot" no more noise. I believe at lower speeds and cold there's a bearing being starved?

It's a constant but changes on decel but it's not really a gear wine (had that before) it's almost like a scraping/whir

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