Current Pricing

[Mspider]

My local dealer is selling at MSRP all day long and never marked up custom orders.

Quick question for those who bought out of state. Can someone tell me how it works? I am thinking about putting in a order Granger this week, sold my 2022 last week.

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[ay1820]

A lot depends on whether or not you plan to finance a significant portion of the purchase. Prices are coming down, but if you plan to borrow, you may end up paying more since interest rates are likely to keep climbing.

If you are paying cash, time is your friend right now and I would wait it out a little bit longer. My bet is that by February (always a good month to get deals on cars), you will have a bit more leverage on new purchases.

 

[swoop1156]

Quick question for those who bought out of state. Can someone tell me how it works? I am thinking about putting in a order Granger this week, sold my 2022 last week.

It's the same as any other process except you're not physically at the dealer signing the paperwork. Unless you travel to the dealer to drive it home, then you would be. I just bought mine out of state. We used a combination of overnight FedEx, scanning, and emailing to do the paperwork and information.

It was wonderful not being hassled to purchase this or that in the finance office and just buying the damn car. I wasn't able to go there to do the deal, so I also contracted Montway to ship it to me.

 

[f00man]

I got my M1 at MSRP. I don't really need the discount, since I don't wanna deal with the hassle of a long distance tow, shipping or drive. I think for a local purchase, MSRP is reasonable in these times. Let's not forget the M1 is a specialty Mustang.

 

[Cobra Jet]

If people wouid put their damn foot down and STOP paying the MSRP AND the ridiculous ADM's - those vehicles would SIT.

The Dealership would eventually be forced to lower pricing because for every vehicle sitting on their lot it's costing them money for the vehicle and the liability.

Start a hashtag movement - I mean hell, if it works for other "we're not gonna take it" vibes, why not for buying vehicles ...

Anyone flopping and just caving to paying MSRP or ADM are fools.... stop buying on damn emotions already and do what is right - DON'T pay the insane markups - walk out.

Plus - there are other Dealers who are still playing fair as mentioned above. If you go onto cargurus or any other similar site - open up their search engine to Nationwide on new cars and you'll see plenty of options.... Ok, so maybe there is a better deal outside your home State - figure it out and pay LESS than caving to the locals and getting totally shafted for literally THOUSANDS.

C'mon folks - use your common sense - stop paying the ridiculous greedy over pricing.

 

[Mspider]

It's the same as any other process except you're not physically at the dealer signing the paperwork. Unless you travel to the dealer to drive it home, then you would be. I just bought mine out of state. We used a combination of overnight FedEx, scanning, and emailing to do the paperwork and information.

It was wonderful not being hassled to purchase this or that in the finance office and just buying the damn car. I wasn't able to go there to do the deal, so I also contracted Montway to ship it to me.

What about title and tax? Do I go to my local DMV with a temporarily title and pay the taxes all up front? Then title the car my in state? We don`t have any emission testing here.

 

[swoop1156]

What about title and tax? Do I go to my local DMV with a temporarily title and pay the taxes all up front? Then title the car my in state? We don`t have any emission testing here.

Same thing only different. The state in which I bought it from doesn't charge tax, so they didn't charge me tax. Sometimes the state will look up what your state's tax rate is and charge it and be done. This dealer was so simple, as I alluded to above, I bought the car "tax-free" and no hassle. I took all the paperwork to my local DMV where I do all my car business and gave it to them, paid $4,600 in taxes, registered the car, got my plate right then and there, and was done in under 5 minutes. I'll receive the title in a few days/weeks.

 

[Mspider]

Same thing only different. The state in which I bought it from doesn't charge tax, so they didn't charge me tax. Sometimes the state will look up what your state's tax rate is and charge it and be done. This dealer was so simple, as I alluded to above, I bought the car "tax-free" and no hassle. I took all the paperwork to my local DMV where I do all my car business and gave it to them, paid $4,600 in taxes, registered the car, got my plate right then and there, and was done in under 5 minutes. I'll receive the title in a few days/weeks.

I see so the taxes just won`t be included in my loan if I decided to get one.

 

[swoop1156]

I see so the taxes just won`t be included in my loan if I decided to get one.

I'd assume that could maybe be done through whichever financial institution you'd go through.

I begrudgingly took out a loan for half of the vehicle as we have some expenses coming up at the end of the year and didn't want to blast a big chunk of our checking account on a car, though our interest rate is less than our returns on some investments we have. That said, my loan was approved for 150% of the vehicle price, so if you have good/excellent credit, or you just ask nicely, they might do it for you.

Hypothetical example scenario: Vehicle is $65,000 out the door, TTL. You request an auto loan for that $65,000 and get approved for $97,500. That's $150% of the loan/vehicle value. Lets say that your state taxes are 6%, so you'd need an extra $3,900 rolled into the loan to cover everything. Since you have an extra $32,500 (the added 50% from $65,000) you can easily have your bank/Credit Union/etc write the check for $68,900 and there you go.

If you're at all able, I'd recommend against paying interest on a tax. I dislike paying interest on anything at all, though my rate is lower than the return on what I'm getting by leaving the money where it's at instead of using it for the car.

Hopefully that made sense. I'll be here all day lol.

 

[Mspider]

I'd assume that could maybe be done through whichever financial institution you'd go through.

I begrudgingly took out a loan for half of the vehicle as we have some expenses coming up at the end of the year and didn't want to blast a big chunk of our checking account on a car, though our interest rate is less than our returns on some investments we have. That said, my loan was approved for 150% of the vehicle price, so if you have good/excellent credit, or you just ask nicely, they might do it for you.

Hypothetical example scenario: Vehicle is $65,000 out the door, TTL. You request an auto loan for that $65,000 and get approved for $97,500. That's $150% of the loan/vehicle value. Lets say that your state taxes are 6%, so you'd need an extra $3,900 rolled into the loan to cover everything. Since you have an extra $32,500 (the added 50% from $65,000) you can easily have your bank/Credit Union/etc write the check for $68,900 and there you go.

If you're at all able, I'd recommend against paying interest on a tax. I dislike paying interest on anything at all, though my rate is lower than the return on what I'm getting by leaving the money where it's at instead of using it for the car.

Hopefully that made sense. I'll be here all day lol.

Yea I would just pay the taxes up front.

Just one more thing I need help. So for insurance, I would just insure the car as normal correct? I would probably pick the car up in person and drive it home.

 

[MAGS1]

I see so the taxes just won`t be included in my loan if I decided to get one.

Certain states will work together to coordinate payment of taxes too. For example, being in IL, had I bought my car in IA I could’ve paid the IL taxes to the IA dealership and they would get remitted to the State of IL (I confirmed that on the state of IL website). Would be worth researching if IA and MI have a similar arrangement.

 

[swoop1156]

Ha, I was wondering how you mention "DMV" and not something else, and I use 6% as an example and I see that you're in Michigan. I was born and raised there, left at 18 for the Military, and retired in Tennessee. Anyway...

Yea I would just pay the taxes up front.

Just one more thing I need help. So for insurance, I would just insure the car as normal correct? I would probably pick the car up in person and drive it home.

Not sure what you mean about insurance. As normal? Well, yes. I personally have Geico on my other cars after switching from USAA, though for the Mustang I went through Hagerty, even though they're double the price, the coverage from them is incredible and makes me sleep better at night knowing if I have an issue with this thing, I can deal with them instead of some random at Geico - been there done that. Plus, Hagerty insures for full replacement value and other little perks that are worth it to me.

I've never been aware of a dealer selling a car and letting you leave without showing them proof of insurance. That being said, me buying out of state and not physically leaving in the vehicle, my dealer didn't require it. I have it, but they didn't ask. If you are going through the motions to buy a vehicle, you certainly have the VIN, do an online quote through your preferred insurance company and have it ready to go so when the deal is done, call 'em up and tell them what day to start the coverage.

EDIT: Be sure to ask about GAP coverage to cover yourself, be sure your selected coverage is sufficient for your loan issuer, and all that. Normally, a standard 100/300/100 policy, (which translates into $100,000 coverage per person for bodily injury, including death, that you cause to others; $300,000 in bodily injury per accident; and property damage up to $100,000) is more than enough for most lenders. YMMV.

 

[Mspider]

Ha, I was wondering how you mention "DMV" and not something else, and I use 6% as an example and I see that you're in Michigan. I was born and raised there, left at 18 for the Military, and retired in Tennessee. Anyway...

Not sure what you mean about insurance. As normal? Well, yes. I personally have Geico on my other cars after switching from USAA, though for the Mustang I went through Hagerty, even though they're double the price, the coverage from them is incredible and makes me sleep better at night knowing if I have an issue with this thing, I can deal with them instead of some random at Geico - been there done that. Plus, Hagerty insures for full replacement value and other little perks that are worth it to me.

I've never been aware of a dealer selling a car and letting you leave without showing them proof of insurance. That being said, me buying out of state and not physically leaving in the vehicle, my dealer didn't require it. I have it, but they didn't ask. If you are going through the motions to buy a vehicle, you certainly have the VIN, do an online quote through your preferred insurance company and have it ready to go so when the deal is done, call 'em up and tell them what day to start the coverage.

EDIT: Be sure to ask about GAP coverage to cover yourself, be sure your selected coverage is sufficient for your loan issuer, and all that. Normally, a standard 100/300/100 policy, (which translates into $100,000 coverage per person for bodily injury, including death, that you cause to others; $300,000 in bodily injury per accident; and property damage up to $100,000) is more than enough for most lenders. YMMV.

haha I actually call it secretary of state, but it seems DMV is a more popular term on the forums.

If I buy the car from Granger Ford in Iowa and drive the car home. I wasn't sure if I needed something special from the insurance. But it looks like I don`t.

Thanks for the help

 

[swoop1156]

haha I actually call it secretary of state, but it seems DMV is a more popular term on the forums.
Thanks for the help

Good ol Jocelyn Benson lol
Sure thing!

 

[Crew4991]

I know pricing varies a lot, but is there a general consensus on the actual selling price vs MSRP? Considering a Mach 1 now, and the dealer is not willing to come off the MSRP.

Give it some more time, it is inevitable that you will eventually be able to get one under MSRP. Based on the Manheim Index of vehicle values coming down, it may be closer to next springtime. If you bought now, I wouldn't bother with used one since most of them are still close in pricing to a brand new one that you would get the chance to customize the way you want it. Good luck finding your next pony!

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