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Csf raditor upgrade overheating issue

Xgamex22

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As title implies I upgraded the radiator for track days to csf radiator and mishimoto oil to air cooler and now im experiencing 10 degrees higher temp on avrage in cht and 20 if ac off could it be that new radiator is faulty needles to say i will take it to the shop tomorrow but any idea on the cause
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Paul McWhiskey

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145 degrees F inlet temp and 212 degree F cyl head temp? So what’s the problem?
 
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Xgamex22

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Same time last year no oil to air stock rad of gt prem never saw more than 85 idle cyl head temp this is going to jump even higher on the track i did the upgrade for i expexted improvement tbh…
 

Paul McWhiskey

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Perhaps a bit more info. How did you refill system? Are you positive that you don’t have any air in the cooling system?
 

ice445

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Same time last year no oil to air stock rad of gt prem never saw more than 85 idle cyl head temp this is going to jump even higher on the track i did the upgrade for i expexted improvement tbh…
No idea how you never got above 85 at idle unless it's tuned
 

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Xgamex22

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Perhaps a bit more info. How did you refill system? Are you positive that you don’t have any air in the cooling system?
I took it to a shop and took it again today to them to do full pressure air bleed
 
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Xgamex22

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No idea how you never got above 85 at idle unless it's tuned
It wasn’t and let say i was wrong it was 90 definitely wasn't going beyond 90 ish now if i drive 120 speed i get 105 c at 17 c ambient no way
 

ice445

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It wasn’t and let say i was wrong it was 90 definitely wasn't going beyond 90 ish now if i drive 120 speed i get 105 c at 17 c ambient no way
Stock fan logic doesn't kick on until like 216f cht though 🤔 I mean i agree you have an issue but we need the whole picture. Grille shutters? How did you bleed the system post install?
 
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Xgamex22

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Stock fan logic doesn't kick on until like 216f cht though 🤔 I mean i agree you have an issue but we need the whole picture. Grille shutters? How did you bleed the system post install?
I dont have grill shutter and we did another bleed yesterday it was totally sealed no air, if i blast the ac it goes back to normal had this installed for a while but since it was summer and ac on never paid attention , i went and programmed the fans yesterday its working fan but not ideal solution

im guessing its has to do with radiator size change seal and air flow cfm to rad ?
 

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Yes, you are correct about radiator size and the airflow. Ducting the inlet airflow will help increase air pressure on the front of the radiator which can increase the delta from front to back and increase airflow through the radiator. A way to increase the delta further is to open up the hood so that air can escape. Air will not flow where it cannot go. So opening the hood ( Race Louvers, etc ) allows the delta across the rad to be greater and increases the airflow. It will also increase front downforce. Do you have these options? If not, you may consider them.
 

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Xgamex22

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Yes, you are correct about radiator size and the airflow. Ducting the inlet airflow will help increase air pressure on the front of the radiator which can increase the delta from front to back and increase airflow through the radiator. A way to increase the delta further is to open up the hood so that air can escape. Air will not flow where it cannot go. So opening the hood ( Race Louvers, etc ) allows the delta across the rad to be greater and increases the airflow. It will also increase front downforce. Do you have these options? If not, you may consider them.
Can you suggest some i will get them also where can i buy good ducting/ sealing where i live we aint handy
 
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Xgamex22

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I went bahrain international circuit today the gear leaked oil due to some pressure and start slipping im removing the extra gear cooler and the cht reached 230 c im going either pp rad or the stock one and start shooting for the issues one by one upgrades did more harm than good maybe these cars are not built for tracks and im better giving up cut my losses and go to different platforms 🥲
 

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I'll be honest, coming from BMW's where CSF rads are a common choice, I've read a lot of stories of people swapping to CSF rads and having higher temps than factory rads. A friend of mine ran one in his S54 swapped E46 ZHP track car and said he had higher temps around the track versus the factory 330 radiator. I've seen numerous E39 M5 guys complain about the same thing even in street cars.

Were you having issues with the factory performance pack radiator? What necessitated the upgrade?

edit: just saw your car is a non performance package car, I'd try the factory PP rad. I think a majority of guys on this forum who auto x and road race these cars run the factory PP rad.
 

Paul McWhiskey

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Can you suggest some i will get them also where can i buy good ducting/ sealing where i live we aint handy
As mentioned in my post, Race Louvers and another is Track Spec. Open the hood up for better cooling and downforce.
 

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I'll be honest, coming from BMW's where CSF rads are a common choice, I've read a lot of stories of people swapping to CSF rads and having higher temps than factory rads. A friend of mine ran one in his S54 swapped E46 ZHP track car and said he had higher temps around the track versus the factory 330 radiator. I've seen numerous E39 M5 guys complain about the same thing even in street cars.

Were you having issues with the factory performance pack radiator? What necessitated the upgrade?

edit: just saw your car is a non performance package car, I'd try the factory PP rad. I think a majority of guys on this forum who auto x and road race these cars run the factory PP rad.
My experience as well, CSF is a no go in the BMW world. On the absolute no fly list.
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