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Creating a 'Trackable' Daily Driver

NightmareMoon

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Brakes are a whole topic. PP Brembos will work a lot better if you also swap the brake cylinder too, and may degrade braking if you dont (according to Vorshlag.). You need good fluid and pads too tho. Theree isnt one street pad that holds up well to track use that isnt also squeaky and dusty on the street. Since you’ll burn through more than one set of pads eventually anyway, might as well start with two sets of dedicated pads for street and track. Just make sure they’re compatable with each other (both from the same manufacturer like GLOC is a good way to go there).

Shocks are absolutely critical for the fast transitions of autox, less critical for track days (IMHO). If you’re doing shocks anyway, its a slippery slope.

My car does triple duty (autox, track, and daily commuting), and I’ve got:

Camber plates, Shocks, springs, swaybars, swaybar endlinks in the front, rear shock mounts, Steeda geometry correcting front control arms, bumpsteer kit, rear lower control arm bearing, rear toe bearing, Brembos and 3.73 torsen from the factory, extended front studs and 25mm slip on spacers, dedicated 19x10” street wheels and 19x11” track/autox wheels, GLoc GS1 street pads, and Gloc R12/R10 track pads, brake cooling ducts, agressive alignment settings, 4-point harnesses for autox, and recaros swapped in place of the stock seats.

Its a lot of crap to mod, and the car was plenty fun and quick with only about half of the above. aside from the springs I chose being s little bit much for daily use with the shocks I already have, the car is very very streetable.

The most critical mods are your brakes and tires. Next are an alignment with plenty of front camber (via camber plates or other creative mods) to keep your tires alive, then good shocks, then everything else...
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Stuntman

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The stock GTPP pads hold up just fine and don't fade with stock or near stock power. You don't 'need' to upgrade the pads in the GTPP or GT350. The master cylinder is not necessary and does not change the bias. It's just important to not put an aggressive rear pad on, which is likely the cause of Vorshlag's problems.
 

BmacIL

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The stock GTPP pads hold up just fine and don't fade with stock or near stock power. You don't 'need' to upgrade the pads in the GTPP or GT350. The master cylinder is not necessary and does not change the bias. It's just important to not put an aggressive rear pad on, which is likely the cause of Vorshlag's problems.
Yes, all this. I've done the calculation and there is less than 0.5% change in OVERALL brake bias (accounting for piston area changes, the larger rotor of the 6 piston setup, and with the forces applied at the distance of the middle of the pad). Oh, and it actually moves forward.
 
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bullitt2

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Thanks for all of the input! Right now I am running the less than desirable Pirelli tires that came with the car until they wear out. I'm planning on the brake pads/rotors, upgrading brake fluid, and adding performance tires as the first step and then seeing how it goes from there. Definitely interested in sway bars etc. I'm just finding that as I gain more experience, the car is starting to overheat on the brakes, roll too much with the stock suspension etc. which were things i didn't notice much as a beginner (for obvious reasons).

Nice to see that lots of people also use the car as a DD/HPDE car. I actually qualified for my novice race license with it last weekedn.

I wish I could upgrade to a GT350 haha but unfortunately that is out of my price range for the time being :crying:
 
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bullitt2

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Base, 2015 Guard GT here, that I've turned from just DD to regular autocross and HPDE car, in addition. My focus was never to take the car too far from being a livable DD, but add a significant amount of competence for performance use. It also happens to be an absolute hoot to street drive because of that. Happy to help.

FYI that brake kit will not be what you're looking for.
Why do you say that re the brake kit?
 

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BmacIL

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shogun32

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Both the pads and rotors aren't up to track duty.
Perhaps a couple of thread references are in order?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brakes-need-advice.119031/#post-2493548
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brakes-need-advice.119031/#post-2493777

But the general consensus/default answer appears to be to go with the 6-pot Brembos (aka 18+ GT perf pack) but that'll require compatible 19" rims. And Ferodo DS2500 compound pads or G-Loc.

See also https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...rotor-pad-recommendation.110767/#post-2358730
 

raiderjatt02

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best mod you can do is buy a 2nd set of wheels and tires and rotors/pads aswell. swap them out before and after each event. (thats if you plan on really getting into tracking your car)
That's honestly all I do now. Change fluids more often than usual but my entire track "prep" consists of swapping to my track set of rotors, pads, and wheels/tires. Done.

When I get back, I wash the car, swap back to my street set. All done.
 
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bullitt2

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I think I'm also going to be looking at upgrading tires this season as I have worn through the Pirelli All Seasons that came with the car when I bought it used. I'm looking at the Michelin Sport Pilot 4S tires and found a good deal locally on a used set BUT they come with the PP rims and are a staggered set (255 on the front and 275 rear). Can anyone provide some insight into how this would change the handling on the track? Understeer? Is it a bad idea just to save some money? I do not have any suspension upgrades at the moment (figured there was no point as a novice) but it is probably something I will be looking at doing in the next year or so. Thanks!
 

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shogun32

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grab the rims and 4S tires. at the very least I would spend the $900-1200 on the 6-pot brakes and then do the IRS lockout/alignment bushings and if you have money left over a set of GT350 springs all around. The dampers can wait. Then drive, drive, drive.

Also do NOT forget to replace your brake master cylinder with FR3Z-2140-A from the GT PP cars or the Automatic version if you have that transmission.
 
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bullitt2

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grab the rims and 4S tires. at the very least I would spend the $900-1200 on the 6-pot brakes and then do the IRS lockout/alignment bushings and if you have money left over a set of GT350 springs all around. The dampers can wait. Then drive, drive, drive.

Also do NOT forget to replace your brake master cylinder with FR3Z-2140-A from the GT PP cars or the Automatic version if you have that transmission.
Thanks for the tip! Do I only need to replace the brake master cylinder if I'm doing the full brembo upgrade? Not if I'm just doing pads/rotors? This is all new to me
 

shogun32

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Thanks for the tip! Do I only need to replace the brake master cylinder if I'm doing the full brembo upgrade? Not if I'm just doing pads/rotors? This is all new to me
6-pots, yes. If you're keeping the 4-pots and 14" rotors (does anyone make replacement rotors with the correct venting?) then the MC is just fine.
 

Cardude99

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6-pots, yes. If you're keeping the 4-pots and 14" rotors (does anyone make replacement rotors with the correct venting?) then the MC is just fine.
I think Steeda does, might still be having a group buy in the suspension threads
 

Stuntman

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Thanks for the tip! Do I only need to replace the brake master cylinder if I'm doing the full brembo upgrade? Not if I'm just doing pads/rotors? This is all new to me
You don't need to replace the master if you do either.

The 6 piston caliper has less total volume than the 4 piston, but is offset by the larger diameter rotor to keep the brake bias close to the same (iirc it actually shifts it forward slightly).

A larger master would be needed if you increased the volume significantly (which you aren't) but since you're going smaller on pistons, the larger master will give you an even firmer pedal feel. That's about it. They don't change your brake bias at all.

So - not needed.
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