Brakes, need advice

[ChitownStang]

So I have a 2015 mustang gt non-pp. It's 4 years old with 36,000 miles on it. Most of those miles are highway or spirited weekend driving. I have started to notice some slight grinding or rubbing sound the last 10mph or so when coming to a stop, nothing under normal braking at higher speeds though. I assume this is my brakes but I'm not sure, could it be a wheel bearing?
If it is the brakes, what pads should I get, stock or upgraded? may try autocross this year, couple times most
Do I need new rotors too or just pads?
Should I do front and rear?
Do I need to change the fluid yet?
Lastly, my older brother with amateur mech skills says we can do it, he's done 15 year old trailblazers and jeeps, nothing on anything newer.. is the Mustang basically the same? I've never done a brake job.
Appreciate any advice.

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[2015Etrac]

So I have a 2015 mustang gt non-pp. It's 4 years old with 36,000 miles on it. Most of those miles are highway or spirited weekend driving. I have started to notice some slight grinding or rubbing sound the last 10mph or so when coming to a stop, nothing under normal braking at higher speeds though. I assume this is my brakes but I'm not sure, could it be a wheel bearing?
If it is the brakes, what pads should I get, stock or upgraded? may try autocross this year, couple times most
Do I need new rotors too or just pads?
Should I do front and rear?
Do I need to change the fluid yet?
Lastly, my older brother with amateur mech skills says we can do it, he's done 15 year old trailblazers and jeeps, nothing on anything newer.. is the Mustang basically the same? I've never done a brake job.
Appreciate any advice.

I would probably just do all new pads and rotors at the same time. Brakes are really easy to change on these cars, there's several Youtube channels that have step by step guides for it. I just bought a set of Brembos to install on my car, along with factory pads and rotors. I believe it cost me about $900 total for all the parts but they're supposed to be much better, especially if you plan to track the car at all, plus I really like the look of the Brembo calipers. I'd also change the fluid while I was at it. Motive Products makes a power bleeder for $75 that looks like it makes fluid changes really quick and easy.

 

[ChitownStang]

I would probably just do all new pads and rotors at the same time. Brakes are really easy to change on these cars, there's several Youtube channels that have step by step guides for it. I just bought a set of Brembos to install on my car, along with factory pads and rotors. I believe it cost me about $900 total for all the parts but they're supposed to be much better, especially if you plan to track the car at all, plus I really like the look of the Brembo calipers. I'd also change the fluid while I was at it. Motive Products makes a power bleeder for $75 that looks like it makes fluid changes really quick and easy.

Thanks for the advice man, thats a good price for Brembo's! My winter wheel/tires won't fit over Brembos so I will stick with stock for now.

 

[BmacIL]

I'd strongly recommend trying GLOC GS1 pads for a mix of street and autocross. They're kind to rotors, low dust and noise, and have more bite than the stock pads. Also, if you get bit by autocross, you can easily swap in their R series pads without having to clean up the rotor because they share material family.

 

[NoVaGT]

As others have suggested, whether you need them, go ahead and do the pads and rotors.

On the PP cars, I'm a big fan of the OEM rotors and pads, because they provide an instant initial bite, which gets lost with after-market stuff. I'd imagine it's the same with the standard brakes.

 

[BmacIL]

As others have suggested, whether you need them, go ahead and do the pads and rotors.

On the PP cars, I'm a big fan of the OEM rotors and pads, because they provide an instant initial bite, which gets lost with after-market stuff. I'd imagine it's the same with the standard brakes.

Only with the cheap stuff.

 

[NoVaGT]

Only with the cheap stuff.

I've done the Hawk HPs in the past, and they too lost that initial bite. Is there some other brand you think give that initial bite like the OEM pads & rotors?

 

[ctandc72]

First off I would search this site for the threads detailing early failure on a wheel bearing assemblies on the mustang. At 36,000 miles it is doubtful, But possible that the factory brake pads are worn out. Thing is, when the brake pads get to the wear Indicators, you get the squeal whenever the break is applied.

 

[NoVaGT]

First off I would search this site for the threads detailing early failure on a wheel bearing assemblies on the mustang......

I just had both my rear wheel bearings replaced at 26,700 miles.

It's a joke.

 

[BmacIL]

I've done the Hawk HPs in the past, and they too lost that initial bite. Is there some other brand you think give that initial bite like the OEM pads & rotors?

Yes that's what I mean by the cheap ones lol.

GLOC GS1 or Ferodo DS2500 for the brembos. GS1 are not a track pad (more than fine for autocross but not enough temp range for road course) but have great bite and less dust than the stock PP pads (which are the DS2500).

 

[NoVaGT]

Yes that's what I mean by the cheap ones lol.

GLOC GS1 or Ferodo DS2500 for the brembos. GS1 are not a track pad (more than fine for autocross but not enough temp range for road course) but have great bite and less dust than the stock PP pads (which are the DS2500).

It's G-loc!!!!!

I typing in GLOC and getting my favorite pistole, not brake pads!!!!

 

[BmacIL]

It's G-loc!!!!!

I typing in GLOC and getting my favorite pistole, not brake pads!!!!

Lol my phone likes GLOC but yes it's G-LOC

Opmustang.com

 

[NoVaGT]

Lol my phone likes GLOC but yes it's G-LOC

F*@K.....now I'm looking at pistols instead of brakes.......

 

[NoVaGT]

Tool Alert!!!

I do believe you need a special tool to screw-in the rear pistons. Can anyone confirm this, maybe tell us what the tool is? Some sort of turny thingy?

 

[BmacIL]

Tool Alert!!!

I do believe you need a special tool to screw-in the rear pistons. Can anyone confirm this, maybe tell us what the tool is? Some sort of turny thingy?

Yeah it's a cube looking thing available at any Advanced Auto or Autozone. Works well.

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