Coolant flush every 3 years?

[2023EGM1]

Dear all, I can’t believe that a 2022 MACH 1 needs a coolant flush every 3 years (low miles), is there a reason for this?

Are they still using short life coolant options?

I appreciate your views and data, my maintenance schedule says that (don’t lecture me about Ford knowing… please).
Thanks

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[Skye]

Is there a reference specifying coolant replacement every three years?

Brake fluid is replaced every three.

The liquid attracts moisture, which changes the viscosity of the fluid.

I'm showing '22 and '23 initial coolant replacement at 10 years or 200K miles, whichever is first.

Edit,

The liquid attracts moisture, which changes the viscosity of the fluid (affecting ABS performance), lowers the boiling point of the fluid (loss of hydraulic function) and can enable rust to many of the internal components. The properties required of the fluid to operate the braking system correctly are compromised.

 

[cerbomark]

I don t have the book in front of me but I d say he11 no on that one. (and I over maintain my cars FYI).

 

[2023EGM1]

It’s in spanish. Coolant has a note 3, that states every 3 years or 50.000 km!

 

[cerbomark]

well I m not sure who wrote that? dealer? original Ford owners booklet?
something lost in the translation I guess.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

Most new cars are like 10 year/100k+ mile intervals for coolant exchanges, but dealers love to scam people who don't know any better. Or they'll say ohh the manual is for perfect conditions not extremes. We dont live in Dubai with 120 degree temperatures and dust storms, sooo not that extreme.

 

[2023EGM1]

Original Ford booklet down here, thanks for the inputs, I’ll flush brake fluid + oil only.

 

[Garfy]

Is there a reference specifying coolant replacement every three years?

Brake fluid is replaced every three. The liquid attracts moisture, which changes the viscosity of fluid over time.

I'm showing '22 and '23 initial coolant replacement at 10 years or 200K miles, whichever is first.

Flushing the brake fluid isn't because of "viscosity" of the fluid; it has to do with moisture absorption of the fluid which would lower the boiling point of the fluid, besides moisture would contribute to corrosion of metal components that the fluid is in contact with. BTW, regarding the coolant, I use test strips to check the condition of the various components of the coolant. Mine is still fine at almost 5 years of age but very, very low mileage.

 

[SCP440]

You can buy an inexpensive tool to check for moisture in brake fluid. A lot of systems are fine after double what the manufacturers recommend in a lot of cases.

 

[John S]

I'm still trying to figure if I should be concerned about the ABS Module and clutch circuit? I've done plenty of flushes to insure the calipers are filled with fresh brake fluid but there are no practical DIY procedures to clear out the stale fluid in the ABS module (unless you trust yourself to use Forscan or buy a capable scanner) and clutch circuit.

 

[cerbomark]

I'm still trying to figure if I should be concerned about the ABS Module and clutch circuit? I've done plenty of flushes to insure the calipers are filled with fresh brake fluid but there are no practical DIY procedures to clear out the stale fluid in the ABS module (unless you trust yourself to use Forscan or buy a capable scanner) and clutch circuit.

I ve never worried about it. I assume with all the changes that the fluid is being diluted by all the fresh fluid. ??? Just my 2 cents.

 

[Skye]

If the ABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), "the block", is replaced, or, if the brake fluid runs so low as to have air enter the HCU system, there is a specific bleed procedure (and tool I think) to clear that unit. Otherwise, the Ford procedure references general pressure bleeding, with the unit attached to the master cylinder reservoir, the new fluid flowing from that to the calipers, through all the bits in-between.

As to the clutch slave cylinder, the general feedback in threads here and elsewhere has been to "fuggetaboutit". I didn't bleed mine.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/changing-the-brake-fluid.193321/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/replacing-clutch-fluid.181642/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/brake-fluid-replacement-with-motive-system.148353/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-mach-1-today.171200/page-367





https://www.motiveproducts.com/pages/power-bleeder-instructions

https://www.motiveproducts.com/page...kvEzQVOQE-1B2TdVaEpGgF4dCKlSfLK7VRuWy1teRzi36

https://www.motiveproducts.com/page...p_j2bOmZ724dfzkuNRLy4gdl6bR_i2SvqZdIgOBP06mBz

 

[SCP440]

A trick a mechanic told me a few years ago was to suck with a syringe the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with fresh fluid every few years. The system does circulate the fluid so the majority of contaminated brake fluid is in and close to the reservoir.

 

[Rodpwnz]

What is the best way to completely flush all old coolant from radiator AND engine block?

I want to swap from 7year old 50/50 coolant to fresh 30/70 ratio yellow motorcraft coolant but kinda worried about leaving any air in the system.

I know about the DIY method of draining radiator, fillilng with distilled water, running engine + heater to get old engine block coolant to mix, then repeat process 3x times until it is all mostly distilled water. During this process occasionally gently squeeze radiator tubes to get any trapped air out.

I don't trust this method and feel like there must be a better and more reliable way to ensure zero air is left in the system.... am I overthinking it?

 

[ironsurvivor]

What is the best way to completely flush all old coolant from radiator AND engine block?

I want to swap from 7year old 50/50 coolant to fresh 30/70 ratio yellow motorcraft coolant but kinda worried about leaving any air in the system.

I know about the DIY method of draining radiator, fillilng with distilled water, running engine + heater to get old engine block coolant to mix, then repeat process 3x times until it is all mostly distilled water. During this process occasionally gently squeeze radiator tubes to get any trapped air out.

I don't trust this method and feel like there must be a better and more reliable way to ensure zero air is left in the system.... am I overthinking it?

For changing coolant over from the old stuff to new and trying to get as much of the old out, that is still the best way. However, on the final drain when you are ready to fill, using a vacuum fill tool will take all of the burping process and air bubbles out of the mix. You can use a refractometer afterwards to measure the concentration and adjust if needed.

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