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**Coming soon: Nitrous install on my FBO 2019 Bullitt**

WildHorse

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That's about.. wait, scratch that. That IS the cleanest nitrous installation I've ever seen. Cheers.
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NGOT8R

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That's about.. wait, scratch that. That IS the cleanest nitrous installation I've ever seen. Cheers.
Thank you sir! Now, it’s time to get past the CAI and nitrous/fuel and purge solenoid clearance issue and I can finally put the car back in service.
 
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I got the clearance issue between the nitrous, fuel and purge solenoids and the CAI tube worked out. If anyone else goes down this road, please know in advance that if you mount your solenoids the way that I’ve mounted mine, clearance will be greatly affected. Thankfully, the PMAS intake system provided the much needed clearance (see my PMAS thread for reference pics). Another possibility would be to mount the purge solenoid remotely from the nitrous solenoid using a short braided -3AN nitrous line between the two solenoids.

Yesterday, I took the car out for a test drive for the first time in about 8 weeks and it felt great! There were no DTC’s, so that was even better news. One thing that I did notice was that scaling the Nitrous Outlet fuel pressure sensor via the controller touchscreen is a work in progress. Setting it per N/O’s instructions 4.5V at 100 psi and 0.5V at 0 psi had the pressure on the display reading 78 psi. I didn’t think this was right, if our fuel pumps are said to put out a max of 58 psi, so I looked at some old Lund data logs and noticed that between idle and WOT, the fuel pump_dc read between 41-44 psi. With this information in mind, I made adjustments to the N/O fuel pressure sensor settings with the touchscreen and ended up with 4.5V at 51.0 psi and 0.5V at 0 psi and the the sensor is now reading 42.9-43.8 psi which coincides with the fuel pump_dc on the nGauge. I keep an eye on this when I data log again for the nitrous tune. This input needs to be accurate because the N/O fuel pressure sensor will serve as a safety component during nitrous use by shutting the nitrous off if the fuel pressure reaches either the low or high side settings that I program into the touchscreen.
 

kevinvan6000

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I for one appreciate your effort and time you've taken to post all this information. I have an identical setup I need to install on my car (350GT manifold, Bullitt TB, Nitrous Outlet kit). I've already gone out and bought a PMAS and a set of valve cover breathers for when I start my install. I hope to start my install in a few weeks.
 
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I for one appreciate your effort and time you've taken to post all this information. I have an identical setup I need to install on my car (350GT manifold, Bullitt TB, Nitrous Outlet kit). I've already gone out and bought a PMAS and a set of valve cover breathers for when I start my install. I hope to start my install in a few weeks.
Thank you! That’s what this forum is all about, sharing information to help each other. I’m glad to be finished with the install. One thing to consider if your hard lines don’t fit properly, is to reach out to Nitrous Outlet and ask if they saved the measurements that Adrian Mansaw gave them for the revised hard line set that they made for his 2019 Bullitt. You will definitely need them to make the kit work, as the standard GT350 plate kit lines will hit the coolant pipe that sticks up from the engine block and you won’t have enough clearance to install jets.
 

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Id suggest you dig around on Nitrous Coyotes FB page. There is wayyyyyyyy more nitrous knowledge there than here.
 

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Id suggest you dig around on Nitrous Coyotes FB page. There is wayyyyyyyy more nitrous knowledge there than here.
Not when the say you don't need a tune on a 100 shot there ain't.
 

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Not when the say you don't need a tune on a 100 shot there ain't.
Then theres you on here telling people P Zeros are good tires because McLaren and Ferrari uses them........ LOL!!!!
 

WildHorse

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Then theres you on here telling people P Zeros are good tires because McLaren and Ferrari uses them........ LOL!!!!
I pointed out that high end cars use Pirellis. You can run used tampons held on by elastic bands for all I care. And yeah, Pirelli is a good tire.
 

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I pointed out that high end cars use Pirellis. You can run used tampons held on by elastic bands for all I care. And yeah, Pirelli is a good tire.
Your comment about the Nitrous FB page is pretty ignorant. There is plenty of retarded info floating around here too.

However there are LOTS of dedicated nitrous guys there also. So instead of dumping on it go learn something.

No one in their right mind would use it without a tune. Id sure like to see you show who mentioned that......

Lastly P Zeros are absolute garbage for anyone that drives anything other than an appliance. LOL.
 

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All three power adders have their benefits. I personally like the immediate vertical climb in hp and tq that a nitrous car makes. Check out this dyno graph on LMR. It would be interesting to see dyno graphs from a turbo and supercharged car that make similar power for comparison.

 

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Cool, thank you for sharing. Really dont know much about Nitrous. Do you race your Bullitt and did you modify your transmission?
 
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Cool, thank you for sharing. Really dont know much about Nitrous. Do you race your Bullitt and did you modify your transmission?
I haven’t raced it yet, but I am setting it up to race it. My transmission is currently stock, except for the addition of the Steeda Tri Ax race shifter and Whiteline transmission bushing insert.
 

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I got the clearance issue between the nitrous, fuel and purge solenoids and the CAI tube worked out. If anyone else goes down this road, please know in advance that if you mount your solenoids the way that I’ve mounted mine, clearance will be greatly affected. Thankfully, the PMAS intake system provided the much needed clearance (see my PMAS thread for reference pics). Another possibility would be to mount the purge solenoid remotely from the nitrous solenoid using a short braided -3AN nitrous line between the two solenoids.

Yesterday, I took the car out for a test drive for the first time in about 8 weeks and it felt great! There were no DTC’s, so that was even better news. One thing that I did notice was that scaling the Nitrous Outlet fuel pressure sensor via the controller touchscreen is a work in progress. Setting it per N/O’s instructions 4.5V at 100 psi and 0.5V at 0 psi had the pressure on the display reading 78 psi. I didn’t think this was right, if our fuel pumps are said to put out a max of 58 psi, so I looked at some old Lund data logs and noticed that between idle and WOT, the fuel pump_dc read between 41-44 psi. With this information in mind, I made adjustments to the N/O fuel pressure sensor settings with the touchscreen and ended up with 4.5V at 51.0 psi and 0.5V at 0 psi and the the sensor is now reading 42.9-43.8 psi which coincides with the fuel pump_dc on the nGauge. I keep an eye on this when I data log again for the nitrous tune. This input needs to be accurate because the N/O fuel pressure sensor will serve as a safety component during nitrous use by shutting the nitrous off if the fuel pressure reaches either the low or high side settings that I program into the touchscreen.

Fuel pump duty cycle and fuel pressure are not the same. Base pressure is around 58, with a bap it will be around 68 to 70.
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