**Coming soon: Nitrous install on my FBO 2019 Bullitt**

[NGOT8R]

Fuel pump duty cycle and fuel pressure are not the same. Base pressure is around 58, with a bap it will be around 68 to 70.

Thanks cbrtrx, I wasn’t sure. That means I’ll have to tweak the sensor scaling some more. Help me to understand this little better. My BAP is programmed to ramp up voltage beginning at 1/2 throttle and reaching 18V at 3/4 throttle. Should I be seeing about 58 psi of normal pressure and only an increase to 60-70 psi when the BAP voltage increases at ramp up? Before I made any adjustment to the scaling on the fuel pressure sensor, I was reading 78 psi, so that confused me and made me think the scaling of the sensor was a little off.

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[cbrtrx]

Thanks cbrtrx, I wasn’t sure. That means I’ll have to tweak the sensor scaling some more. Help me to understand this little better. My BAP is programmed to ramp up voltage beginning at 1/2 throttle and reaching 18V at 3/4 throttle. Should I be seeing about 58 psi of normal pressure and only an increase to 60-70 psi when the BAP voltage increases at ramp up? Before I made any adjustment to the scaling on the fuel pressure sensor, I was reading 78 psi, so that confused me and made me think the scaling of the sensor was a little off.

If your bap is set up like that then yes you should see the raise at wot. Gen 3s have a fuel rail pressure sensor it will tell you what it is.

 

[WildHorse]

No one in their right mind would use it without a tune. Id sure like to see you show who mentioned that......

Lastly P Zeros are absolute garbage for anyone that drives anything other than an appliance. LOL.

You seriously need to read their FB page more. The Admin & a couple guys there know their shit, most of the others are just feeding line after line of 'no tune on a 100 SHOT' bullshit. Also you think Pirellis are garbage ? LOL. Nitto G2 / 555 / etc are garbage.

 

[NGOT8R]

I know all results won’t be the same, but here’s another video of a VMP supercharged GT vs Nitrous GT. Really good hit on the launch.

 

[codereddew]

Any videos/updates? Also, did you get the scaling sensor thing straightened out?

 

[NGOT8R]

Any videos/updates? Also, did you get the scaling sensor thing straightened out?

Only a couple of short system test videos. I did get the bottle filled and put back into the trunk on Monday. I tested for leaks and it held pressure for an hour (verified that the nitrous pressure on both the bottle gauge and touch screen are tracking properly), after which I purged the line.

I‘m still waiting on the One Ethanol to be delivered (ordered on 2/13). Once I get confirmation that the fuel has shipped, I’ll order the nitrous tune from Lund. I’m hoping to be able to test it sometime in March.

Yes, I was able to get the fuel pressure sensor scaled properly.



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[NGOT8R]

One Ethanol S was delivered today! I poured 10 gallons of it in the tank (easy come, easy go...LOL). I am currently working with Brandon at Lund on the nitrous tune. I like the methodical approach that he’s taking. We’re at step one, WOT pull in 3rd gear, so that he can verify the fuel curve before writing the nitrous tune. Waiting to hear back from him on the next steps.

The fuel tested out at 90% ethanol btw. It’s nice to know that I got what I paid for.

 

[NGOT8R]

Update:

I know a few of you have been awaiting an update on how my nitrous system has performed. Well, let me tell you that it has not gone as smoothly as I would have liked. I’ve encountered a couple of setbacks along the way. Let me share what happened with you guys. At first, I was burning through all of the One Ethanol fuel at an alarming rate trying to capture some data logs, but after several failed attempts, the system just wasn’t activating. It turns out that I had the Gear Lockout feature enabled in the nitrous controller and when I would go WOT in 3rd gear, there would be no drop in rpm, which is what the controller needs to see and recognizes as a gear change and will then allows the system to activate. The second issue was on me as well. The remote bottle opener rocker switch does not illuminate when open like the arm and heater switches. It also goes back to the neutral position after being cycled one way or the other. Well, I hadn’t paid close attention to which direction I needed to cycle the switch, in order to close the bottle after the aforementioned attempted runs and therefore, thought I had closed the bottle, when in fact I hadn’t. Needless to say, I purged a good amount of nitrous into the air, thinking I was just bleeding the line down. No big deal right? I’ll just bring the pressure up and try the hit again, but as luck would have it, the nitrous was flowing intermittently, due to there not being enough nitrous left in the bottle. I would later find out (by removing and weighing the bottle on my scale), that I had purged all but less than 1.6 lbs of nitrous from the bottle during the extended purge, along with a few other test purges.

Yesterday, I pulled the bottle and took it back to the performance shop to have it refilled. Everything was going great, I had weighed the bottle (14.6 lbs empty) prior to dropping it off, so that I could confirm that I had gotten a full 10 lbs of nitrous after the fill. When I returned home and put the bottle on the scale, I discovered that it had been overfilled by 3.10 lbs., weighing in at 28.0 lbs full. Here is where I should have opened the valve and bled off the extra 3.10 lbs, but didn’t. I thought I would try to use it instead of wasting it. Big mistake! Against my better judgement, I put the bottle in the holder anyway and turned on the heater to bring the pressure up, so that I could go make a hit and finally capture a good data log for my tuner. In just a few short minutes, there was a loud POP, followed by a loud rush of air. I knew immediately, that the burst disc in the nitrous bottle had ruptured. All I could do was stand there and watch/listen as the bottle dumped all of the nitrous through the blow down safety line...Aw man! $77 worth of nitrous; GONE bye, bye in about 30-40 seconds. I thought to myself; there has to be a positive in all of this and there was. As I watched the nitrous being vented, I focused in on the blow down hose and saw that it was working properly and venting the nitrous through the hose and bulkhead fitting, out the bottom of the car as intended. I’ve used blow down tubes on all of my previous nitrous setups, but had never experienced a burst disc rupture until now, nor had I ever had a bottle overfilled before. There was so much nitrous coming out of the hose, that it would have made for a a really cool photo or video. Now imagine if that had happened while I was out driving and I didn’t have a blow down hose attached to my nitrous bottle. That’s right, nitrous would have quickly filled the interior of the car and made if very difficult to see, which could have been disastrous. Having said that, I implore anyone running nitrous to install a blow down tube or hose on their bottle...They really do work!

So, I removed the nitrous bottle again, installed a new burst disc and was back at the performance shop dropping it off to be filled again, in less than an hour. A couple of hours later, the performance shop called and told me that they had refilled the bottle, but it was leaking slowly from the feed line nipple, so they has capped it off. They went on to say that they seen this issue before and suspected there was an issue with the billet valve assembly o-rings sealing. After talking with one of my buddies, who has a lot of experience with nitrous, he suggested that I pick the bottle up, go ahead and install it in the car and try to capture my data log, after which I could then disconnect the feed line, cap the nipple off again and wait a few hours to see if the o-rings in the bottle valve would thaw out and seal properly again, thus stopping the leak. I took his advice took the car out and made a good 3rd gear WOT hit, FINALLY capturing a good data log which I sent off to my tuner last night. I am waiting to hear back from my tuner now. Hopefully he will give me the all clear nod to swap out the 100 hp jetting for the 150 hp jetting.

Pro Tip: Nitrous users, get yourself an infrared temperature gun and check the temperature at the bottle before opening the bottle valve. This will keep pressure off of the solenoids until you’re actually ready to spray and help them live longer.

Stay tuned for for further updates!

 

[NGOT8R]

Ruptured burst disc.

 

[NGOT8R]

I received approval from my tuner to increase the nitrous jetting for the 150 hp shot a short while ago. I took the car out and made the WOT hit from 2500 rpm to 7600 rpm and it felt nice and strong!

I barely know anything about reading logs, but do see that the motor seems happy on this shot, as the ECU was adding timing from 2622 rpm to 6599 rpm, although I had the ProMax controller set to spray from 4000 rpm to 7600 rpm. I’m waiting to hear back from the tuner again with his assessment of the log.

 

[NGOT8R]

Here’s a short video of a 3rd gear WOT nitrous data log test hit. I love this ProMax controller. A quick glance at the nitrous and fuel icons on the touch screen allows me to see when the solenoids are activated. It also has a ton of safety features.

The high rpm pull did unmask some interior panel buzzing that I’d sure like to locate and silence.

 

[cbrtrx]

The nitrous supplier simply froze your bottle way too long that's why the o ring leaked. Furthermore if it had 3 pounds too much nitrous they were using a pump, another mistake. The bottle only needs to be in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes and use a gravity fill. Pumps are garbage. Your fill will be garbage. Another tip always bring your bottle empty, never top off a bottle. Tip 2, run a gauge on your bottle, that way you know the pressure in the bottle at all times, it will save you from all these mishaps.

 

[NGOT8R]

The nitrous supplier simply froze your bottle way too long that's why the o ring leaked. Furthermore if it had 3 pounds too much nitrous they were using a pump, another mistake. The bottle only needs to be in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes and use a gravity fill. Pumps are garbage. Your fill will be garbage. Another tip always bring your bottle empty, never top off a bottle. Tip 2, run a gauge on your bottle, that way you know the pressure in the bottle at all times, it will save you from all these mishaps.

Good info cbrtrx; thanks! The nitrous supplier froze my bottle for 4 hours. I know this because I dropped it off at 8:30 AM and called them at 12:30 PM to see if it was ready and the guy on the phone said: “He’s running back there to fill it now. It will be ready in a few minutes.” This particular nitrous supplier deals primarily in performance parts sales and they seemed to be understaffed and overwhelmed with parts sales, that they simply forgot all about my bottle sitting in their freezer until I called to check on it. I think it might be worth looking into getting my own mother bottle and gravity feed setup if I start using lots of nitrous.

I do have a gauge on my bottle and the controller also shows pressure, but only when the bottle valve is open. This is due to the nitrous gauge nipple adapter that I use. The gauge, N2O pressure sensor and feed line stay connected to the nipple adapter at all times and I simply connect/disconnect the gauge nipple adapter to the feed nipple on the bottle.

I had been riding with the bottle open during initial testing, in order to see the pressure at all times, just like you said, but after doing some research, thought it would be best to start keeping it closed until ready to make a hit. I think this will help the solenoid plungers live a little longer. The burst disc popped so quickly, that I didn’t even have time to disconnect the battery charger leads from my battery and close the hood, or start the car before I heard POP!

I have and am definitely learning a lot more about nitrous this time around. My hope is that others will be able to learn from my mistakes. There’s no need for someone else to traverse the same bumpy road that I traversed, so I want to be transparent about my experiences here. Believe it or not, there’s not a whole lot of end user information available about the ProMax controller; it’s been trial and error on several things, to include setup.

 

[NGOT8R]

I just received the following message from my tuner Brandon over at Lund Racing:

“Log looks awesome! I think you may be running low on bottle pressure though. Nothing crazy just went 7% rich at the end. Can't beat those results though “

This is exactly the type of news I was hoping to receive. I’m all set now! Maybe in the near future I’ll put the car on the dyno and make a couple of hits on the E85R and Nitrous tunes to see how much power/torque was gained.

 

[cbrtrx]

Good info cbrtrx; thanks! The nitrous supplier froze my bottle for 4 hours. I know this because I dropped it off at 8:30 AM and called them at 12:30 PM to see if it was ready and the guy on the phone said: “He’s running back there to fill it now. It will be ready in a few minutes.” This particular nitrous supplier deals primarily in performance parts sales and they seemed to be understaffed and overwhelmed with parts sales, that they simply forgot all about my bottle sitting in their freezer until I called to check on it. I think it might be worth looking into getting my own mother bottle and gravity feed setup if I start using lots of nitrous.

I do have a gauge on my bottle and the controller also shows pressure, but only when the bottle valve is open. This is due to the nitrous gauge nipple adapter that I use. The gauge, N2O pressure sensor and feed line stay connected to the nipple adapter at all times and I simply connect/disconnect the gauge nipple adapter to the feed nipple on the bottle.

I had been riding with the bottle open during initial testing, in order to see the pressure at all times, just like you said, but after doing some research, thought it would be best to start keeping it closed until ready to make a hit. I think this will help the solenoid plungers live a little longer. The burst disc popped so quickly, that I didn’t even have time to disconnect the battery charger leads from my battery and close the hood, or start the car before I heard POP!

I have and am definitely learning a lot more about nitrous this time around. My hope is that others will be able to learn from my mistakes. There’s no need for someone else to traverse the same bumpy road that I traversed, so I want to be transparent about my experiences here. Believe it or not, there’s not a whole lot of end user information available about the ProMax controller; it’s been trial and error on several things, to include setup.

Yes definitely have the gauge fitted to the bottle valve port so you know the pressure at all times. Always keep the bottle closed with no pressure in the lines when not spraying, the noids will last much longer that way.

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