Clunk from right rear after suspension install.

[DadzMach]

No tech with 30 years of experience would let the car go without first having test driven it to ensure there aren't any issues or noises. Also, with all of those parts you mentioned being replaced, the "tech" should have loosened all of the control arm bolts (any pivot point) and re-torqued them when the car was sitting on its wheels at ride height.

Clunks like yours are generally the Sway bar links not being tight enough, or the bushing mount but could certainly be the subframe being loose, or the adjustable toe links. How mechanically inclined are you?

The “Tech” is someone as I said with 30 years experience at the same Ford Dealer. He however doesn’t do anything but stick cars normally. I was shocked that he let the car go twice. The second time, as I mentioned, it was raining and I really didn’t hear much, if any noise driving home. I drove the car again over the weekend and it became louder and louder. I plan on giving all info passes on to me, to him so he can hear from others what I’ve already suggested it could be.

I am pretty mechanically inclined but I am also unable to do much anymore due to medical conditions. I would probably end up in the Hospital if I were to try.

If it were the subframe, would the entire thing need to be loose for the banging around to happen or could it be just one bolt?

After having my Wife drive the car yesterday while I sat in the back with the seats folded down, I am pretty sure it’s just the right rear.

Hopefully the 3rd time is the charm when I bring it in again next Monday! Should I not drive it until then so nothing gets bent up or anything?

I really appreciate everyone’s input so far and it’s not far off from what I have been thinking it was/is. I have had about 25 Mustangs and I always do all the suspension work before I do anything else to the car. I have not had an issue with a single other car. All the others were done in Florida when I lived there.

At this point, I am giving it one more shot and then I will send it back to Florida to go to Steeda. I hate messing around and taking from one place to another, so I figure in the end it will cost as much or less to have it trucked there and fixed by the people who know their parts best.

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[DadzMach]

I have all that "Steeda Stuff" and more on my Bullitt and have been chasing the same noise for about a year or so now and to no avail...as the clunking appears to have no effect on the handling or performance of the car. I gave up on trying to find the source and just live with it since I am the only person who drives it. However I live about 3 hours from Steeda in Pompano I have considered taking it to them to get it sorted out.

I would absolutely take the car to Steeda. It would drive me crazy to drive it like this. I have no tolerance for things when they don’t work as intended and I would sell the car before driving it like this. This is why going down the road of modifying cars can be such a bad idea and I know this. I can never be happy with “good enough”, and I need to learn to be happy with the way things come!
But for sure, I would make an appointment with Steeda if I were you. You would enjoy the car so much more if it was functioning properly. Plus it’s entirely possible and likely the parts are causing other issues if they are moving around like that. You don’t want any safety issues.

 

[SheepDog]

The “Tech” is someone as I said with 30 years experience at the same Ford Dealer. He however doesn’t do anything but stick cars normally. I was shocked that he let the car go twice. The second time, as I mentioned, it was raining and I really didn’t hear much, if any noise driving home. I drove the car again over the weekend and it became louder and louder. I plan on giving all info passes on to me, to him so he can hear from others what I’ve already suggested it could be.

I am pretty mechanically inclined but I am also unable to do much anymore due to medical conditions. I would probably end up in the Hospital if I were to try.

If it were the subframe, would the entire thing need to be loose for the banging around to happen or could it be just one bolt?

After having my Wife drive the car yesterday while I sat in the back with the seats folded down, I am pretty sure it’s just the right rear.

Hopefully the 3rd time is the charm when I bring it in again next Monday! Should I not drive it until then so nothing gets bent up or anything?

I really appreciate everyone’s input so far and it’s not far off from what I have been thinking it was/is. I have had about 25 Mustangs and I always do all the suspension work before I do anything else to the car. I have not had an issue with a single other car. All the others were done in Florida when I lived there.

At this point, I am giving it one more shot and then I will send it back to Florida to go to Steeda. I hate messing around and taking from one place to another, so I figure in the end it will cost as much or less to have it trucked there and fixed by the people who know their parts best.

Do you not have a trusted local shop that could look at it? Probably just a loose sway link or shock mount

 

[DadzMach]

Do you not have a trusted local shop that could look at it? Probably just a loose sway link or shock mount

I will take it one more place locally before sending it to Florida. The Tech is someone I have known for 27 years. He is the tech that works on all the Ford GT’s and anything else “special”, he is a good tech. Before moving to Florida he worked on all my cars and never had an issue. I am very surprised that I am having any issues with him. Clearly he isn’t listening to my suggestions, which for the most part are the same things I have heard here.

 

[tj@steeda]

I have all that "Steeda Stuff" and more on my Bullitt and have been chasing the same noise for about a year or so now and to no avail...as the clunking appears to have no effect on the handling or performance of the car. I gave up on trying to find the source and just live with it since I am the only person who drives it. However I live about 3 hours from Steeda in Pompano I have considered taking it to them to get it sorted out.

We would love the opportunity to get things good for you. OP - shoot me your email address and order number - I'll have our lead tech advise on potential issues.

Best,

TJ

 

[tj@steeda]

Our parts have been proven over & over - 35+ years of quality & service. Something needs to be tweaked in the installation - appreciate you dropping in

 

[Austin1992]

Man I’ve had the exact same issue. Did the full steeda catalog in the rear and have a slow speed clunk on the right side.

I started off 2 years ago with the braces, subframe alignment, bushing lock outs, delrin vert links, red diff bushings, and Bmr toe links with ford performance toe link bearings and it started then. Few weeks back I did steeda camber arms, lower control arm bearings, drag springs, double adjustable shocks, billet shock mounts, and g force axles. Clunk didn’t change. Took it to the drag strip last week and on the way home noticed it’s a little louder now, this is driving me insane.

Definitely keep us updated.

 

[DadzMach]

Our parts have been proven over & over - 35+ years of quality & service. Something needs to be tweaked in the installation - appreciate you dropping in

I have no doubt in the quality of Steeda parts. I have been using them for over 23 years now. Way back when I was actually an authorized Steeda Dealer. Not only did I never have issues, none of my customers did either. I know it’s not the parts and am certain it’s an install issue.
I will PM you in a few minutes TJ, thanks so much!

 

[DadzMach]

Man I’ve had the exact same issue. Did the full steeda catalog in the rear and have a slow speed clunk on the right side.

I started off 2 years ago with the braces, subframe alignment, bushing lock outs, delrin vert links, red diff bushings, and Bmr toe links with ford performance toe link bearings and it started then. Few weeks back I did steeda camber arms, lower control arm bearings, drag springs, double adjustable shocks, billet shock mounts, and g force axles. Clunk didn’t change. Took it to the drag strip last week and on the way home noticed it’s a little louder now, this is driving me insane.

Definitely keep us updated.

I will post for sure when the issue is resolved, hopefully next week, if I am lucky, this week.

 

[Gnatsum21]

Man I’ve had the exact same issue. Did the full steeda catalog in the rear and have a slow speed clunk on the right side.

I started off 2 years ago with the braces, subframe alignment, bushing lock outs, delrin vert links, red diff bushings, and Bmr toe links with ford performance toe link bearings and it started then. Few weeks back I did steeda camber arms, lower control arm bearings, drag springs, double adjustable shocks, billet shock mounts, and g force axles. Clunk didn’t change. Took it to the drag strip last week and on the way home noticed it’s a little louder now, this is driving me insane.

Definitely keep us updated.

For me it was a lose sway bar, noise coming from the rear right. Started about 3 days after install. Brought it back to Steeda Pompano and got it fixed in no time. No noise since over a week now.

 

[Keeffa]

Its from the sway bar. And yes, needs to be tightened. Ask me how I know.

Maybe end links

 

[DadzMach]

For me it was a lose sway bar, noise coming from the rear right. Started about 3 days after install. Brought it back to Steeda Pompano and got it fixed in no time. No noise since over a week now.

I am very hopeful

 

[WItoTX]

What is a "stick car"? Like a manual?

Sometimes specialty techs don't know much about mass produced cars.

 

[DadzMach]

What is a "stick car"? Like a manual?

Sometimes specialty techs don't know much about mass produced cars.

LOL, yes, “Stick” is a manual. Guess I’m old?? He is very knowledgeable and works on all Fords, regardless of model but he is also the Ford GT trained tech and does most of the work on non stock Fords only.

 

[WItoTX]

LOL, yes, “Stick” is a manual. Guess I’m old?? He is very knowledgeable and works on all Fords, regardless of model but he is also the Ford GT trained tech and does most of the work on non stock Fords only.

Oh, I thought it meant something else in the context of how it was said. I have a GT350. A manual is not old, and it better NEVER die!

The GT is a wildly different car, and requires tight tolerances in all the correct spots. The Mustang is mass produced, and more often than not, requires more force than tolerances. Hence the Steeda stop the hop kit. LOL

BTW, I chased a similar clunk in the front of my car for two years. I think I finally found it.

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