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I had the same situation/symptoms after doing a spring install on my '16GT. Turns out the nut that secures the strut to the top hat/bearing was not as tight as it needed to be.
Upon the initial install of that nut, I used an impact gun but even that did not tighten it enough as the strut shaft would turn along with the nut when attempting to tighten it down.
I had to remove the strut assembly from the car, and re-tighten that nut by holding the very top of the hardened steel strut shaft (inside the spring) with a bitchin' set of vice grips and then tightening the nut on top of the hat/bearing with the previously mentioned impact gun.
This did the trick and the clicking noise went bye-bye.
As well, using the vice grips did not damage the strut shaft in any way, but it did prevent it from turning when using the impact gun for the second time.
Upon the initial install of that nut, I used an impact gun but even that did not tighten it enough as the strut shaft would turn along with the nut when attempting to tighten it down.
I had to remove the strut assembly from the car, and re-tighten that nut by holding the very top of the hardened steel strut shaft (inside the spring) with a bitchin' set of vice grips and then tightening the nut on top of the hat/bearing with the previously mentioned impact gun.
This did the trick and the clicking noise went bye-bye.
As well, using the vice grips did not damage the strut shaft in any way, but it did prevent it from turning when using the impact gun for the second time.
ForYourOwnGood
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Do yourself a favor if you ever have to do it again and buy a 21mm strut socket, they're fairly cheap and makes it way easier to torque.
Houston Kid
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We did a friend of mine's last week. He had a clunk in the passenger front end and we could not figure it out. All top bolts tight. Bolts on the lower strut tight. He went to get the alignment.
I was not there so I don't know exactly the how or exact where, but the shop said the sway bar was loose. Not sure where, but maybe the end link came out during install and we did not notice it but I swear I double checked it before putting the strut back on.
Problem solved so maybe check the sway bar.
I was not there so I don't know exactly the how or exact where, but the shop said the sway bar was loose. Not sure where, but maybe the end link came out during install and we did not notice it but I swear I double checked it before putting the strut back on.
Problem solved so maybe check the sway bar.
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Grimace427
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After lowering the suspension during your alignment have the tech loosen all of the suspension bolts(especially rear lower control arm with the big bushing) and then re-torque with everything at ride height. This is called clocking the bushings and will prevent other noises, uneven right height, and unnecessary binding on the bushings which can lead to premature wear.
Zelek
Well-Known Member
The shop that did mine said this was not necessary. They would have charged me an arm and a leg to get to all the necessary bolts to clock them. I looked at the ones that BMR suggested and they are a pain in the ass to get to. For someone that has done suspension for 25 years, I took his word for it and just had him align my car. Guess I'll report back to see if my bushings ever wear out prematurely. Then again, I went with the SP763's so it's not like I made a drastic change to the car.
OP, I used an electric impact and just hit the tops with that. Make sure the springs are seated properly with the rubber ends. That's basically all it takes. What springs did you install?
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