After seeing the invisible glass tool (to be ordered soon), I managed it with an upturned hand with a microfibre mitt and then a poor mans version of that tool to get down the edges - a pledge polishing wand with a sonus microfibre polishing bonnet stretched over the head ... It was still a PITA ...
Sorry to get super detailed about this, but was hoping to learn something.
I use the 2 cloth method but I still wind up with lint afterwards. So I soak a waffle weave cloth with cleaner, wipe, flip cloth, wipe. Then I switch to a second microfiber cloth and do a buff to get the rest but I find it does start to catch which is probably why I wind up with lint. I was hoping someone could give me that aha moment!
Folding down the rear seats and going in through the trunk sounds good, but what about those with the factory rear seat delete? The panel doesn't seem to be too sturdy if one is going to do repeated back window cleanings over time, and the foam blocks which support the panel from the bottom seem to be only a bit more firm than a dry sponge, and I imagine they would flatten out if enough weight is put on them repeatedly. I'm thinking of this as I'm going to install a factory rear seat delete kit sometime soon. I know, I know. Then don't clean the back window, duh!
I also use the gizmo linked on post #4. I use my own microfiber rag, but it adheres by itself, so no need to staple it, or secure it, any other way. And I just sprayed it with distilled water (tinted windows too). And I actually use that method even outside; no need for more in my case. I have special PVC (blue) shop towels that produce absolutely zero lint, but it's rare when I have to use them.
That invisglass reach tool works well... but you gotta use a 50/50 blend of rubbing alcohol and distilled water for best results.
I've been a detailer by trade since 1996 and have tried everything. I always default back to what works. The tool is definitely a helper when used with the right products. 50/50 blend like i said