Charging System Service Now - Argh

[WItoTX]

So, some progress. I swapped the fully charged OEM battery back in. The "Charging System Service Now" notice still pops up within 5 seconds, but in ~5 minute test drives with and without the current sensors in place the system didn't go nuts and shut down as it had very quickly on the same drives with the AG battery. So, perhaps I'll at least be able to run this weekend while I chase the wiring issues. It remains to be seen whether the AG will cause any problems with the rest of the system healthy.

Later today - fully checking (removing/cleaning) all the grounds as suggested, and re-checking the alternator pigtail.

I am more confident it's a battery issue. Sounds like the OEM battery is on it's last legs (It's 3 years old, that is a decent run for a car with electrical loads as big as yours), and the ATX-20 never had enough power in the first place (I have so much disdain for AG because they say it will work on our cars). I really don't think it's your alternator or the connection.

I have a contact who has done a lot with the DSC. When I told him I was running the LiPo, he said get rid of it ASAP. He had burned up wiring harnesses in at least one Camaro running LiPo, and always had electrical issues in his Mustangs. He builds cars for racers. His cars are often top 10 cars in the events they run. And that was on top of three other people saying not to run the LiPo.

My suggestion, get something more powerful than OEM. The GT350 battery is already small considering the load it has to take. I relocated mine to the trunk so I could have a big enough battery. If I were you, that is what I would do.

Not sure if you mean you are going out on a track this weekend, but that OEM battery is likely going to fail on you if you are running a track event. The MR, ABS, PS, fuel pumps, and all the driver nannies use a lot of power.

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[ChipG]

I do have a track event this weekend, yes. The OEM battery, however, is only about 10 months old. I swapped because I was seeing measured voltage at the battery lower than I like after sitting overnight (12.1V or so). I had it tested and it tested good, but yeah, it may still be on its way out. I'll have to try a new and/or larger battery to see if that makes the message go away.

 

[Egparson202]

Whatever the case (and it’s no fun throwing money away chasing problems), showing up at the track with a car that’s not ready is the worst. Do what you gotta do to get rid of that message before you load up. Losing power steering at speed won’t be any good.

 

[WItoTX]

I do have a track event this weekend, yes. The OEM battery, however, is only about 10 months old. I swapped because I was seeing measured voltage at the battery lower than I like after sitting overnight (12.1V or so). I had it tested and it tested good, but yeah, it may still be on its way out. I'll have to try a new and/or larger battery to see if that makes the message go away.

10 months old, I bet it's fine. I assumed it was the factory battery. Do you have any aftermarket electronics?

Store your key away from your car, and lock the car. I found a decent draw on my car if I left it unlocked, and identified the fuses responsible. I think it was 24 and 48. Locked the car and hide the key, and almost zero draw in any fuse.

My issues were less dramatic once I cleaned that ground.

 

[Ruiner46]

I don't know if the GT350 is the same as the GT in this area, but I would also check the ground at the passenger side motor mount bracket where it bolts to the engine near the starter. There is a stud there with a large ground cable and it's possible the dealer touched it.

 

[5doorsoffury]

the antigravity batteries have there own bms and if it dosent play nice with the fords bms ( as far as ford seeing the voltage changes affect the batteries voltage as if it was a lead acid chemistry) it will cause shit to hit the fan. MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT USING A BATTERY TENDER WITH A AG BATT. it will f up the battery.

there are many many warnings on there web site regarding chargin. i hate the fact that lipep04 and other pouch cells are thrown in a battery and sold to people with little or no warnings on what they are getting themselves into.

 

[MiamiGT350]

@ChipG I replaced my GT350 oem battery with a Interstate 590 CCA battery from Costco, which matches the GTs. I haven't had any issues in over a year. 3 year warranty, a little over $100.

Item Number	1624412
Group Size	96R
CCA	590
CA	740

 

[galaxy]

MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT USING A BATTERY TENDER WITH A AG BATT. it will f up the battery.

Soooo, this part is completely inaccurate. You just have to get a correct, LiPo style tender.

 

[Evolvd]

the antigravity batteries have there own bms and if it dosent play nice with the fords bms ( as far as ford seeing the voltage changes affect the batteries voltage as if it was a lead acid chemistry) it will cause shit to hit the fan. MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT USING A BATTERY TENDER WITH A AG BATT. it will f up the battery.

there are many many warnings on there web site regarding chargin. i hate the fact that lipep04 and other pouch cells are thrown in a battery and sold to people with little or no warnings on what they are getting themselves into.

You’re just wrong on every point.
The ATX 20 and 30 do not have an internal BMS…only the Restart series of batteries. And you can charge AG batts with a CTEK lithium charger, which they recommend and sell on their website.

 

[WItoTX]

Soooo, this part is completely inaccurate. You just have to get a correct, LiPo style tender.

Yeah, but he internet yelled it, so I believe him.

 

[ChipG]

I have the appropriate battery tender for the AG, and not a Restart model

 

[ChipG]

Still no more progress.

• I reinstalled the OEM alternator, cleaning all the contacts and continuity checking all 3 wires on the pigtail.
• I cleaned and reattached both grounds on the passenger side strut tower and both grounds underneath the air filter box.
• I tested with my truck battery, which is significantly larger than the GT350 OEM battery and which is less than a year old.
• I was unable to locate a ground to the engine block on the passenger side anywhere near the engine mount or starter. If there is one there, I'd love assistance finding it.

Behavior is unchanged after any of those tests - the error message pops up within 5 seconds of starting the engine. I now have the OEM battery, alternator, and starter back in the car, all less than a year old. I've checked every ground, wire, and connector I can find with multiple checks and a replacement on the alternator pigtail. I welcome suggestions on other ground locations to check.

At this point it HAS to be a wiring issue somewhere in the harness I would think. Something cooked or vibrated to oblivion. I can't think of anything else I can do besides:

1 - replace the whole engine harness (myself or pay to have it done)
2 - take it to a dealer and watch $$$ fly making them chase it.

 

[WItoTX]

I hope the photo isn't massive. I'm pointing at the passenger side ground lug. That is the one you need to look at. I have a battery relocate terminal there now (the black thing), otherwise that bolt is connected directly the to strut tower. Clean that.

Did you do the BMS reset when throwing in the truck battery? I hope it's nothing as significant as what you are stating. But I'd bet if you chase down all these loose ends, the dealer will have a better starting point. Or independent mechanic.

 

[ChipG]

Thanks, I did mean the passenger strut tower. One on top and one where you pointed out. I did not BMS reset with the truck battery.

 

[Ruiner46]

• I was unable to locate a ground to the engine block on the passenger side anywhere near the engine mount or starter. If there is one there, I'd love assistance finding it.

This is where the ground is. Not my picture, I took it from the internet, but the black circled ground wire connects to the stud with the red arrow. The stud is one of the four bolts that holds the motor mount bracket to the engine block. There should be a nut on that stud for the wire. I remember this being there because I had to deal with it to install BMR motor mount brackets. I suppose it's possible Ford did something different with a newer GT350. I have a 2016 GT.

This is a picture of the BMR motor mount brackets and you can see the wire tied into the harness for the starter.

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