Carbon wheels

[Joshinator99]

Thanks, now I need to find that machine at a local shop.

You can go on Hunters website and use the locator. Use that Hunter Revolution to mount the tires plus the Hunter Elite road force balancer FTW.

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[mavisky]

I’ll spin lug nuts on/off with a
big electric impact tool to save some time, but always tighten with the impact to safely less than the torque spec and then finish up the last few ft lbs with a torque wrench on the ground. Taking them off I don’t bother to break them by hand, just spin them off with the impact, which saves about 20 steps in the process. Never work a hot lug nut or stud, let them cool before working them (that’s how you break them). I’ll also start the lugs by hand. Cross threading them would be bad.

i’m constantly changing sets of wheels, so safety 1st, but speed and ease is important. I’ve done well over a hundred wheel changes on my mustang, maybe 150+ by this point. Never broken a stud or nut and never had one come loose (except those two times I drove off without remembering the torque step), and I caught those before they were backed off.

Same here. Break loose by hand, then use a 3/8" impact to spin the nuts off the extended studs. Then start the lugnuts by hand and then run them down with the little impact. Still takes a good half revolution or more to actually hit the torque spec every time so no concerns.

 

[Jerryinpa]

Many years ago I searched for a torque wrench for my f150, Proto J6014 or J6016 will do the 150 ft lb spec, I always re do the torque after I get home from a shop that had the wheels off. It keeps from warping the brake rotors n wheels,
Also, I turn the torque setting to zero when I'm done using it, so as to not compress the springs which shifts the torque wrench calibration. Well worth the torque wrench price!
Thanks, Jerry

 

[Ewheels]

just was asking if anyone uses an impact gun to make life easy over tightening via wrench but had a feeling air tools are a bad idea on CF wheels.

Break them loose with a breaker bar > zip them off with an impact > start threads by hand > zip them back on with impact but only to one or two ugga duggas (typically gets me to around 80 lb-ft) > torque to spec with torque wrench

 

[Tomster]

Break them loose with a breaker bar > zip them off with an impact > start threads by hand > zip them back on with impact but only to one or two ugga duggas (typically gets me to around 80 lb-ft) > torque to spec with torque wrench

Yes, exactly.

 

[melown]

You can go on Hunters website and use the locator. Use that Hunter Revolution to mount the tires plus the Hunter Elite road force balancer FTW.

All good advise here ^ I hand torque them with non marring socket, set the car down, and use 150 ft lbs set on a torque wrench.

I've got 14,000 miles on my carbon wheels. I'm In LA but car was bought in WA and driven around there for the first year including a couple road trips down the west coast back to LA. Car sees weekend highway, canyon and some track driving.

I went to Galpin Auto Sport by the Galpin ford dealer to change the tires the first time. I figured i'd trust them to do the tire change since they service Ford GTs. They did the change ok, but their alignment service was taking it to some crap shop down the street that couldnt even adjust the rears the first time, so I had to go back a second day. They damaged the shock tower holes too while doing the alignment. Super disappointed with them. Alignment was needed to return the car to street alignment settings when it was set to track for a couple events. The actual ford dealer across the street was too busy to do alignments. :/

I had one tire patched at a small independent tire shop in Glendora that does high end cars (claimed hes done 350R and gt500 carbon wheels before). He was respectful, had the proper tire changer tools, and went slow and fixed one tire from a small leak I had.

Next time, I'm thinking of just going to a Ferrari dealer or Porsche dealer, or an exotic only place like FSE LA. You know, the guys that deal with carbon and magnesium wheels more often.

 

[Tomster]

Or do what I do. Get to know your tech at your Ford dealer and get his cell number. When he does a tire change, tip him $50 and tell him to take extreme care and to take his time.

If you do that, you will never have a problem.

 

[MandoGt350R]

A hunter touchless tire machine and someone who takes their time and cares about your wheels. That is the only way to go.

You can go on Hunters website and use the locator. Use that Hunter Revolution to mount the tires plus the Hunter Elite road force balancer FTW.

Thanks Gentlemen.

 

[galaxy]

Or do what I do. Get to know your tech at your Ford dealer and get his cell number. When he does a tire change, tip him $50 and tell him to take extreme care and to take his time.

If you do that, you will never have a problem.

I ALWAYS do this (at the tire shop). Even if I don’t readily know the guy in the shop, I chat them up and meet who’s doing the work. And then I’ll meet the actual guy, explain what I’m looking for, and tip for his lunch.

Last time I got tires, they were super excited to just work on a cool wheel and wanted me to bring the car back up there. Obviously I did. They loved it. And yes, I do not take my car to any shop. Wheels come off and go to the tire shop in the truck. I also don’t farm out alignments. I have quite thoroughly enjoyed (and have become quite good) studying, acquiring the tools, and doing my own alignments. There’s a tiny bit of homework involved in learning how to work in degrees and how/where to measure that out in a practical application, but after that, it’s just an alignment. The basics are all the same.

 

[Johnnydarkgt350]

I purchased the longer torque wrench with the snaps at presets. I’m old fashioned and turn my mounting into a fine event, while jacked up only to a non slip .hand starting and pre torque to a light 50 or 60, then star /step torquing with about three increases, Fords info says 135-150 lb ft . On my rack partially jacked w tires loaded enough that they don’t turn . Lower and recheck. My local Ford store has the hunter tire changer.

 

[galaxy]

Fords info says 135-150 lb ft.

If we’re really getting picky and want to lawyer up, LOL…Ford says 150+- 15. Those are different and here’s why. When you say 135-150, you’re stating anything/somewhere in that range is acceptable. But, with the other statement, 150 is the target. 150 is the setting. And then with some variable allowance in there to include above 150 (but we don’t seem to talk about that around these parts, LOL). Hey, just for fun converstion;)

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