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Car just arrived and Ughhh

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jseeutat

jseeutat

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I've got a tester from Amazon a while ago and it's proven to be more accurate than Autozone one - useful thing to have. No jump starter to eliminate battery as a source ?
I have a jump starter that I’m about to hook up to it and try.
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I've got a tester from Amazon a while ago and it's proven to be more accurate than Autozone one - useful thing to have. No jump starter to eliminate battery as a source ?
So I couldn't get it to do anything when I hooked up my jump box to it but the one I have is a small one. I put the charger back on the battery and all I am getting is 3 bars after several minutes. Last night this thing was fully charged. Could this be the battery?

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So I couldn't get it to do anything when I hooked up my jump box to it but the one I have is a small one. I put the charger back on the battery and all I am getting is 3 bars after several minutes. Last night this thing was fully charged. Could this be the battery?
Assuming charger is working correctly - yes, very much so.
 
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Assuming charger is working correctly - yes, very much so.
Charger is brand new so I would hope the charger is ok. Hmmm, gonna pull this battery out and get it tested!
 

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Another idea - got another car with similarly sized battery (not physically, CCA-wise) ? Or just another car and cables ? I would connect a different battery from another vehicle and see if it starts (doesn't have to be fully installed).

I went through an ordeal with a truck, 3.5ish year old Ford AGM battery ended up being basically dead. Autozone tester would say it needs to be charged so test can be meaningful (I was charging it), my $40 tester from Amazon show "replace". I did some more work trying to figure out if there is parasitic draw somewhere, figured not and replaced battery. Works fine ever since.
 

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Another idea - got another car with similarly sized battery (not physically, CCA-wise) ? Or just another car and cables ? I would connect a different battery from another vehicle and see if it starts (doesn't have to be fully installed).

I went through an ordeal with a truck, 3.5ish year old Ford AGM battery ended up being basically dead. Autozone tester would say it needs to be charged so test can be meaningful (I was charging it), my $40 tester from Amazon show "replace". I did some more work trying to figure out if there is parasitic draw somewhere, figured not and replaced battery. Works fine ever since.
Autozone tested it twice for me and it came back good and fully charged both times. I appreciate the advise and will try this in the morning. My work vehicle has a small battery and it's damn near brand new so that will be a good one to use.
 

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Autozone tested it twice for me and it came back good and fully charged both times. I appreciate the advise and will try this in the morning. My work vehicle has a small battery and it's damn near brand new so that will be a good one to use.

So the battery comes back fully charged. Car starts, you drive it, next day car won't start?

Sounds very much like a bad cell, do you know. or anyone for that matter. If Autozomby uses a load test, reading voltage just shows what is known as a surface charge, not a full of deep charge.

No one spotted a date code on the battery, giving you the age?
 

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Rated R Cars had a video about his dead battery experience. Any of this look familiar?

 
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Rated R Cars had a video about his dead battery experience. Any of this look familiar?

I'm having a totally different issue I think. I have juice, it just doesn't recognize the key fob. I am hoping to get some sort of resolution today because as you can see from my timing, I am losing sleep over this ordeal. In fact, I have been losing sleep for a month now dealing with this company.
 

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Man - I am sorry you're dealing with this. There are good cars at Vroom / Carvana (people sell to them because they're paying well), but another reason people sell to them is because they take literally everything with little inspection.
 

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I'm having a totally different issue I think. I have juice, it just doesn't recognize the key fob. I am hoping to get some sort of resolution today because as you can see from my timing, I am losing sleep over this ordeal. In fact, I have been losing sleep for a month now dealing with this company.

There you go that's good you have defined the problem. Reading the last few posts was not clear.

Happy motoring....
 

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Sorry to hear it's not something easy like a battery. Hopefully your locksmith gets you back on the road.

Part of the "fun" of troubleshooting is eliminating the possible causes to find the actual culprit. It can be time consuming and stress inducing, but one upside to doing it via a public forum like this: you may help the next guy that has the same issue and comes across this thread. Good luck!
 
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Sorry to hear it's not something easy like a battery. Hopefully your locksmith gets you back on the road.

Part of the "fun" of troubleshooting is eliminating the possible causes to find the actual culprit. It can be time consuming and stress inducing, but one upside to doing it via a public forum like this: you may help the next guy that has the same issue and comes across this thread. Good luck!
Yes and I appreciate all of the advice you all are providing.
 
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So I just got a little insight to what is going on. The locksmith was unable to program a key. He read the error codes and the issues are related to the start button and interior center antenna which makes sense why the car won't read the key fob. I ended up having to call Ford roadside assistance so a wrecker is having to come pick it up. Wish me luck that the car isn't damaged being picked up or dropped off at the dealership.
 

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Sounds like an immobilizer problem. Had a friend with a Town Car that did crap like this. The dealer should be able to diagnose it
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