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Car battery with high end stereo system

TonyT930

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What are you guys using? Any feed back on this choice?
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Evolvd

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Unfortunately the 96R group isn’t known for producing a lot of amperage for high end audio usage. However, the Group 47 batteries are significantly better and will fit our cars with some slight bulging of the battery cover.

I have the XS Power D4700 in my Shelby (which is already power hog without the audio system) and it’s held up well. Just don’t expect to be playing a lot of music on accessory power if you’re pushing a lot of amps.
 

ZeroTX

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Seems like in the olden days the car stereo guys ran an auxiliary battery in the trunk. Seems like a huge hassle, but maybe not for someone willing to lose trunk/storage space for speakers (that's not me... not interested at all in making my neighbors feel my music... that's what the exhaust is for).
 

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What kind of amperage load is the stereo capable of adding to the overall electrical system? The battery doesn't work alone. You'll need to consider if the stock alternator can keep up, too. Assuming the alternator is stock.
I know high-end doesn't always mean high power, but I figured it worth pointing out.
 
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TonyT930

TonyT930

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What kind of amperage load is the stereo capable of adding to the overall electrical system? The battery doesn't work alone. You'll need to consider if the stock alternator can keep up, too. Assuming the alternator is stock.
I know high-end doesn't always mean high power, but I figured it worth pointing out.
800 watts total as far as power
 

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ZeroTX

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Jaymar

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Not all 800W are created equal either. Newer switching rail amps put 80% power down to the speaker compared to something like an old Fosgate 800a2 that put less than half down and cooked everything around it with the rest. There's more of course but the short of it is I've never had a system that actually outran the alternator or battery that wasn't grossly pushing the limits of good taste and hearing. You should be fine while running. If you want to sit on battery power with the engine off you'll need a portable battery bank in your trunk but that is a quantity question more than it is a quality question.
 

K4fxd

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Nothing like a class A amp for sound quality but expect it to get HOT

Or are you guys talking about bass thump? Get a bank of commercial capacitors.................
 

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Jaymar

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Bass you could cook your eggs on.

As a general rule-of-thumb, add up the protection fuses installed on all of your amplifiers. Those are absolute maximum, when lightening strikes values of what the amp can draw. That sum is an absolute maximum with headroom value that your audio system will draw. You can even fudge it down from there very safely but it will get you in the ballpark of considering how much electrical system you need to support it.
 

K4fxd

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Is that Rockford class A or AB? most crap today is D which I don't like for audio quality but class D amps are getting pretty good.
 

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I have combined 640W @4 ohm RMS off 8 channel DSP and mono block that bleeds my ears at max. My battery is fine. I rarely run it past 50% it's so loud. Only with top down to I run it it 80% on occasion.

Hope this helps.
 
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TonyT930

TonyT930

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Wattage and amperage are different measurements.
I know that. I just didn't know the amperage in case that wasn't obvious
 
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TonyT930

TonyT930

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Bass you could cook your eggs on.

As a general rule-of-thumb, add up the protection fuses installed on all of your amplifiers. Those are absolute maximum, when lightening strikes values of what the amp can draw. That sum is an absolute maximum with headroom value that your audio system will draw. You can even fudge it down from there very safely but it will get you in the ballpark of considering how much electrical system you need to support it.
I believe it's drawing about 50 amps
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