Buying a used 2022 Mach1...

[SaveTheManuals16]

Just wondering what your thoughts are on buying a used base Mach1, without the handling package which runs $5,395 in Canada.
I don’t plan on tracking my car very much, so does it mean that if I go with the base car(no handling package), the car won't handle very well??
Kind of confusing.
Also, when I test drove a gt350 I could adjust the magneride suspension from buttons on the steering wheel to either soften or firm up the suspension.
Is it possible to set my own parameters to the following in the Mach1?
Suspension to soft, and everything else to its sportiest setting like throttle response etc?
Is there anything in particular to look for when purchasing a used Mach1?
Thanks.

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[Traffic22]

I can’t speak to the handling of the non-hp cars. But, yes, you can adjust the magnaride, and set modes. It’s not the same as the GT350….it’s in the menus now, which is kind of a pain in the butt. Some of the settings are tied together, but there is adjustment.

This should answer some of your specific questions…..

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...h-1-Supplement-version-1_su_EN-US_11_2020.pdf

 

[2021 Mach 1]

I have a non-HP car (not available in the UK). I do not track the car. On the road, the car handles very well and the Michelin PS4S tires are excellent in the wet and dry. Also, for my roads, I don't think Sport Cup 2's would be an optimal choice.

 

[driving_for_fun]

The damper setting is linked to the drive mode. You can't adjust it independently. I usually drive MyMode (Sport+ mode and Track exhaust) in city and Normal on highway.

In autox, I would rank it below the BRZ and Camaro that I previously owned. It's composed, but struggles with front grip. Will try again with wider, stickier tires and camber plates.

 

[cerbomark]

a non HP is a great value, most people change the heavy OEM wheels anyway, tires also usually get swapped out for road driving , I also prefer the low spoiler( you can always add the larger spoiler), and some run the HP without the lower front spoiler for obvious reasons. Your not going to notice any of these things on the street. I have driven both and own a non HP.
see if you can find a 700a (leather, heat cooled seats).
you can set suspension things you ask about right on the dash.
LOL, the car will handle better than you ll use.

 

[young at heart]

Just wondering what your thoughts are on buying a used base Mach1, without the handling package which runs $5,395 in Canada.
I don’t plan on tracking my car very much, so does it mean that if I go with the base car(no handling package), the car won't handle very well??
Kind of confusing.
Also, when I test drove a gt350 I could adjust the magneride suspension from buttons on the steering wheel to either soften or firm up the suspension.
Is it possible to set my own parameters to the following in the Mach1?
Suspension to soft, and everything else to its sportiest setting like throttle response etc?
Is there anything in particular to look for when purchasing a used Mach1?
Thanks.

Let‘s end that confusion If we can.

I don‘t have a clue about track, but for street use it’s doubtful you’d ever reach the limits of even a lowly non-HP car, much less an HP model. That is, short of bodily injury or incarceration. I’ve tried hard and I sure can’t do it. Maybe a more talented driver…

The real problem though is that you lose the right to attach the cool “HP” designation to your profile sig! Only you can decide whether or not that’s a problem.

 

[SaveTheManuals16]

Thanks for your input gents, appreciate it.
All the reviews I've seen and read say the Mach1 is a great overall sports/muscle car.
Handles well, and importantly to me rides well.
In 2016 I made the mistake of buying a Ford Focus RS sight unseen, without a test drive because they were such a hot commodity dealers would not allow test drives and it had such a firm, harsh, unbearable, punishing suspension/ride quality, I sold it after only 8 months of ownership.
I never realized how important ride quality was until I bought that car.
I'm hoping this is not the case with the Mach 1 since it has magneride.

 

[derklink]

Mach 1 non-HP is right there in the middle IMO. Not too soft and not too harsh. Magneride transforms the car. For street driving, the non-HP is plenty good and no mods are necessary. If you're somewhat serious about track driving your non-HP, I'd recommend at least some chassis stiffening (Steeda rear IRS subframe support), and wider + stickier tires, lighter wheels, brake pads and fluid. Steeda Dual Rate MagneRide Ultimate Handling Lowering Springs perhaps. At that point, probably best to get a car with the HP. That's what I should've done...sigh.

 

[DadzMach]

Mach 1 non-HP is right there in the middle IMO. Not too soft and not too harsh. Magneride transforms the car. For street driving, the non-HP is plenty good and no mods are necessary. If you're somewhat serious about track driving your non-HP, I'd recommend at least some chassis stiffening (Steeda rear IRS subframe support), and wider + stickier tires, lighter wheels, brake pads and fluid. Steeda Dual Rate MagneRide Ultimate Handling Lowering Springs perhaps. At that point, probably best to get a car with the HP. That's what I should've done...sigh.

I also have a non HP. For a stock car it was great and most will be more than happy with it. Only the most talented drivers in the correct environment could ever come close to finding the edge of the handling between a HP and non HP.

I have driven both and decided on a non HP because I knew I would change my wheels and lower the car. I spent less money adding all the Steeda parts and wheels and tires to have my car out handle a stock HP. That’s my $.02!

 

[derklink]

I also have a non HP. For a stock car it was great and most will be more than happy with it. Only the most talented drivers in the correct environment could ever come close to finding the edge of the handling between a HP and non HP.

I have driven both and decided on a non HP because I knew I would change my wheels and lower the car. I spent less money adding all the Steeda parts and wheels and tires to have my car out handle a stock HP. That’s my $.02!

You did you stay under $4,500 with your mods? Good set of wheels & tires is that alone.

 

[DadzMach]

You did you stay under $4,500 with your mods? Good set of wheels & tires is that alone.

I bought HRE flow forged wheels and Michelin PS4 a/s as well as $2200 in parts from Steeda. All in I spent just shy of the $4500 cost of the HP package. I still have my small rear spoiler which I prefer and I have the front lower splitter, thrown in with the sale, but it’s not installed because I can’t drive it where I live.
So just shy of the $4500 spent, no rear spoiler and a car that handles at least as well as the HP of not better. Regardless of which model car you buy you will still need to spend some money for the stop the hop kit and the IRS bushing kit. You won’t NEEED to, but most who modify their car in anyway will want to do those two mods at the least since it’s the worst part of the suspension on either HP or Non.
That’s my opinion anyway.

 

[MachNroll]

Just wondering what your thoughts are on buying a used base Mach1, without the handling package which runs $5,395 in Canada.
I don’t plan on tracking my car very much, so does it mean that if I go with the base car(no handling package), the car won't handle very well??
Kind of confusing.
Also, when I test drove a gt350 I could adjust the magneride suspension from buttons on the steering wheel to either soften or firm up the suspension.
Is it possible to set my own parameters to the following in the Mach1?
Suspension to soft, and everything else to its sportiest setting like throttle response etc?
Is there anything in particular to look for when purchasing a used Mach1?
Thanks.

Non HP owner myself.. Equipped with Elite and Appearance packages and 6 spd manual and "Base" wheels (I prefer to call them "retro" wheels because I do not feel that having the Elite and Appearance packages make this car a "Base" model)... Anyway, with the car set at "Sport" mode, the suspension is plenty firm but comfortable, and the steering is quite responsive. I think that for the average driver, the non HP Mach 1 is perfect - - especially with the manual transmission.... As to what to look for in buying a used Mach 1... lower mileage, clean CarFax, regular oil changes, body/fenders not dinged and panels line up.. Test drive it at highway speeds and bumpy roads and listen/feel for any oddities... Try to test drive it when the engine is cold so you can do a cold start and listen to the engine both cold and warm.

 

[Traffic22]

Thanks for your input gents, appreciate it.
All the reviews I've seen and read say the Mach1 is a great overall sports/muscle car.
Handles well, and importantly to me rides well.
In 2016 I made the mistake of buying a Ford Focus RS sight unseen, without a test drive because they were such a hot commodity dealers would not allow test drives and it had such a firm, harsh, unbearable, punishing suspension/ride quality, I sold it after only 8 months of ownership.
I never realized how important ride quality was until I bought that car.
I'm hoping this is not the case with the Mach 1 since it has magneride.

I too owned a Focus RS. The suspension on that car was a great handling suspension but the magneride in that car was nothing like the magneride in the Mach. The Mach is so much more refined. I have a HP car, and it does not beat you up on a day to day basis. (Although mine is not a daily driver.)

Even with the suspension set to the firmer setting, it’s not nearly as harsh as the RS was. There are several reasons for this…..much more refined suspension tuning, longer wheel base, heavier car. These all combined for a much more refined ride.

Now with all that said, I didn’t feel like the RS was too harsh as a daily so we have different thresholds. But, the Mach is night and day different and I don’t think you need to be concerned.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

I've driven both and there isn't a huge difference. Both setups are comfortable on the street, although the HP suspension is noticeably stiffer in the rear they're both pretty soft. Honestly the biggest difference in ride quality is the sidewall difference in the tires. I'm glad I went the way I did and I enjoy having larger, lighter wheels that I can rotate versus the stock HP wheels. The only downside is resale will be lower even if the cars are identical.

On the street there's only a small difference, the larger, stickier tires with a shorter sidewall make the biggest change. I've driven non-HP suspension with non-HP wheels and tires, HP suspension with non-HP wheels and tires, and finally HP suspension with 19x11's and 305/30/19's.

 

[SaveTheManuals16]

Gents after looking for a few weeks I noticed that there are very few deals, if any on the Mach1.
New cars range from $71,995 to an average of around $76,500 CDN.
I did find a local used 2022 Mach1 without the hp for around $67,000 CDN or $50,827 USD with about 8,500kms.
Not a bad color but not my favorite (prefer fighter jet grey), and no leather seats, but I'm more of a function over form kinda of guy, so I'm willing to sacrifice those to save $5 to $10k, I mean when you're driving the car you don't really see the exterior anyway.
Most of the used Mach1's are selling at very close or even above their MSRP prices.
I guess these are the times we're living in.
Do you guys think $67k CDN is a good buy for a clean car, clean Carfax?
I'm hoping I can negotiate the price down.
Gents I personally believe that this is the time to buy a V8 powered muscle/sports car since everything in the future will be either hybrid or electric, and definitely no proper manual transmission.
No 2024 Camaro, Dodge Charger electric, the last na V8 powered muscle car left will be the 2024 mustang, and the Darkhourse will be at least $11k more than the Mach1.
The cheapest Darkhourse I've seen advertised in Canada is $84,158 CDN.
Personally I think the current generation Mustang including the Mach 1 is a better looking car than the Dark Horse which is two squared off in my opinion, and the rear end looks horrible.

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