Boost and Cats

[CompOrangeFanatic]

This is from Gsports website. Supposedly the converters can handle up to 1700F temps.


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EPA Compliant - for use on OBD1/OBD2 Vehicles (1996 to 2016)
304 Series Stainless Steel construction throughout
Double-Lock technology ensures substrate is locked in place
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Ideal for forced induction and capable of withstanding up to 1,700F/ 925C

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[engineermike]

Fwiw sae publications have listed ceramic (stock) substrate cats are good for 1920 deg f.

 

[Jackson1320]

So as most of y’all know we can’t buy off road products now. Well I’m looking into going procharged come Black Friday. I’m doing supporting mods at the moment. Im in the market for long tubes and I would love to keep cats to reduce rasp. But I also know cats can be a bit restrictive which I’m okay to loose a few horsepower over no rasp. I’m not trying to be the fastest or reach highest numbers. I have been reading a lot of boosted boys running cats and blowing out the cats or blowing engines. So what would y’all recommend at these crazy times when it comes to buying headers? I was thinking just a cheaper brand like Texas speed from lethal sense we can still buy catless or sw I think cause they have a 3 inch match up to my corsa. But I would love to go with ARH headers but I’m paying for a cat too. I’m stuck.

Stick with your stock headers. You don’t need long tubes unless you’re trying to squeeze out all the power

 

[Jackson1320]

The stock cats are better than 99% of high flow

 

[SSG 5.0]

How do we know when the cats are starting to go?

 

[SSG 5.0]

This is how my cats looks like at the mo

 

[Cory S]

How do we know when the cats are starting to go?

A ring land will break.

 

[SSG 5.0]

A ring land will break.

So us catted guys are screwed then.

 

[SSG 5.0]

So what are your thoughts on my pics above? I can see where is the most heat located.

 

[Cory S]

So us catted guys are screwed then.

Not if they are factory OEM.

 

[Slopoke]

So what are your thoughts on my pics above? I can see where is the most heat located.

I do think that you'll have to unbolt them and inspect them from the front. I don't think that you can determine the condition of the core, just by looking at heat patterns on the body.

 

[SSG 5.0]

Not if they are factory OEM.

My cats are oem because the headers and mid pipe are my last upgrade on this car in the future, but I guess I’ll pass on that upgrades. Honestly, all I do is 0-80 mph or 20-80 mph and nothing else. So I guess I’m not really beating up on my car.

 

[engineermike]

How do we know when the cats are starting to go?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-cats-from-melting.155761/page-6#post-3178518

 

[SSG 5.0]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-cats-from-melting.155761/page-6#post-3178518

Thanks man

 

[zero_chance]

So as most of y’all know we can’t buy off road products now. Well I’m looking into going procharged come Black Friday. I’m doing supporting mods at the moment. Im in the market for long tubes and I would love to keep cats to reduce rasp. But I also know cats can be a bit restrictive which I’m okay to loose a few horsepower over no rasp. I’m not trying to be the fastest or reach highest numbers. I have been reading a lot of boosted boys running cats and blowing out the cats or blowing engines. So what would y’all recommend at these crazy times when it comes to buying headers? I was thinking just a cheaper brand like Texas speed from lethal sense we can still buy catless or sw I think cause they have a 3 inch match up to my corsa. But I would love to go with ARH headers but I’m paying for a cat too. I’m stuck.

I’ve been running 10 psi for 20k miles with zero issues on my catted car. If it’s tuned properly it’s not an issue and under forced induction the gains are minimal from removing them. My opinion is remove them if you want to change the sound, not for performance gains. 20 years ago, yes, not really an issue anymore.

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