Bolts backing out/ broke

[NeverSatisfied]

I gave it a couple quick hits to tighten it, and then a couple more to make sure, I didn’t hold it down the whole way

Again a terrible idea to use an impact on these.

I’d lower the subframe enough I could dremmel a slot.

Put some heat into it with a torch.

Then I’d come though the subframe with an air chisel using one those flat blade attachments with a lever arm and see if I could get it to turn out with the vibration and rotation.

Good luck and let us know how this goes.

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[thehotrod]

How did you get your bolt out of the subframe. I snapped one off on my s550 using my new impact wrench. Who knew. Now I'm screwed.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I would try a big easy out.

 

[Buldawg76]

From the first pic it appears the bolt broke below the surface of the threaded hole in the frame surface so it will be all but impossible to cut a slot with a dremel or any other tool to use a screwdriver to try to back it out. I would approach it by using a center punch or even better a transfer punch that is just a center punch with a shank diameter the same size as the threaded hole in the frames ID so it automatically centers in the hole to punch a center for a left hand drill bit to start out from and hopefully it will grab the broken shank while drilling and back it right out.

You are going to have to likely remove the entire subframe from the chassis to gain enough room to be able to work without any interference from being able to drill straight into the broken shank. Or it does not back out with the left hand drill bit then some heat and a quality easy out will be required to get it to come out in one piece. I have removed many a broken bolt shank from blocks, trans cases, etc in my 50 years as an auto tech and going slow and a lot of patience is a virtue in being successful at removing broken bolts.

A worst case would be to drill it out as straight and close to the OD of the bolts threads without going bigger than the threads and then use a punch with the tip ground to a 45 degree angle with a very sharp edge and try to catch just to outer thread of the remaining portion with the punch and try to fold the threaded portion in on itself so it collapses enough that you can slowly get it to rotate out of the hole. If all of the above fails, then the only last ditch effort is to completely drill out the broken shank and tap threads to install a helicoil or timesert in the body for a new subframe bolt provided there is enough meat in the body to allow for the helicoil or timesert to be installed.

I wish you the best of luck in your repair attempt.

BD

 

[thehotrod]

FYI, I tried an easy out....but like buldawg said, because the subframe member was in the way, it was very hard. I ended up taking it to the dealer. I know I could have found some shop that was cheaper to do this, but I felt so helpless and I didn't want to screw up the frame. Anyhooo, 10 hours of labor later, they dropped the whole subframe and drilled it out. And installed a new $50 bolt and did a 4 wheel alignment. So you can imagine what the final bill was....$2600. Man I'm sad about my stupid mistake. But I'm glad it is fixed. Thanks for the input.

 

[5doorsoffury]

using a punch may work in a situation where space is limited and its the lease deforming, after that i would try to use a Dremel and cut a slash in it to use a flat head. now that is assumed the bolt didnt break from being frozen in place and it was just over stretched and fatigued. you also can drill 2 small holes and use a set of snap ring plyers kind of like thoes security screws they use in bathroom stall construction...

if you use a easy out you need to be careful since if it breaks( THEY ALWAYS BREAK ON ME) ITS HARDENED STEEL that you cant drill out and try again. if you break an easy out you need to drill the entire thing out and helicoil it. try heating the shit out of it with a blow torch and shock it with penetrating oil. just make sure you use a high quality easy out... no harbor freight bs or cheap chineesium from amazon!! i wonder how much the dealer would charge to fix that? if it were me i would just pay them if it was less then 250 FWIW.

 

[Buldawg76]

Glad they were able to get it out and got your car fixed but the labor rates nowadays are just ridiculous for sure. Back when I was still a tech it was at 75 per hour in 1998 and then after the Harley test facility, I went to closed down in 09 it was only 95 per hour. It's now between 160 and 270 per hour depending on the ford dealers in my area.

BD

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

Glad they were able to get it out and got your car fixed but the labor rates nowadays are just ridiculous for sure. Back when I was still a tech it was at 75 per hour in 1998 and then after the Harley test facility, I went to closed down in 09 it was only 95 per hour. It's now between 160 and 270 per hour depending on the ford dealers in my area.

BD

It’s crazy what labor rates are these days. And they keep going up (not *my* pay rate though, of course!). A 0.3 hr difference is over $100 at my dealer!

 

[Buldawg76]

It’s crazy what labor rates are these days. And they keep going up (not *my* pay rate though, of course!). A 0.3 hr difference is over $100 at my dealer!

Of course, the techs don't get raises when the rates go up. In 98 I was making 16.50 flat rate and was an ASE master tech as well as GM master tech for Cadillac. Which is why when a job with Harley as a mechanic in research and development at Talladega test facility became available, I took it since it was a company salaried position with all kinds of benefits, I got paid the same regardless of if it took 5 minutes or 5 days to finish the job. Started at 17.50 per hour with anything over 40 time and a half, Sundays double time and holidays double time and a half. Got paid very well to play at work every day and felt like I went from prison camp to country club for work.

Then when test facility shutdown in 09 because economy tanked, I went back to dealer for 1 1/2 years and had enough of warranty work and still being paid 16.50 flat rate. Then went to work for bike salvage yard making rollers and runners out of wrecked bikes until my health failed.

I feel sorry for techs today with all the computer/modules and unnecessary crap on today's cars.


BD

 

[S550HPP]

Yeah never use impacts on anything unless they are a torque adjustable one that few have because they cost a fortune, even then use carefully set to max 15 lb just to speed up nut to seat.

I was too busy to swap out my struts so took it to trusted Indy shop that does a lot of supercars and collectables.

The hack tech used a torch to get spindle bolt out instead of 5 lb sledge and impact to vibrate bolt, then used impact on B6 Strut nut stripping it, then used impact on Koni Active strut nut stripping the shaft, did not use new spindle bolts and nuts supplied and did not use loctite on reused strut mount nuts.

Shop owner is a friend so he had them chase it and loctite retorque all plus already has a new strut on hand to replace after holidays and he will give a free ceramic tint since my perfect B6 struts were rendered useless from the torch and unsellable.

He was happy that I am one of the few who gave him this feedback I'm sure the two months tenure tech was canned immediately.

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