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Scooter MGee

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I had to do some minor Dremel work to get my Morel tweeters to fit, it it really was not bad. Probably a 15 minute job.
Just replacements for the OEM units with no other upgrades? Happen to have the part number?
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FreePenguin

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Those 8 ohm?
also, is there a capacitor on it / bass blocker to keep them safe? if so, id love to buy them if they are soft on the ears.
 

thill444

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also, is there a capacitor on it / bass blocker to keep them safe? if so, id love to buy them if they are soft on the ears.
No capacitor or bass blocker needed since I am using a DSP which sets all the crossover points for each speaker independently.
 

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BiteMe2

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I can vouch for the Powerbass speakers. I swapped in their 6.5 components on my doors and 6.5 coaxials in the rear. Huge improvement without needing to upgrade the amp.

Got a part number for the PowerBass front speakers ?
 

StangTime

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BiteMe2

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I have the base 6 speakers and are the front doors 2ohm or 4ohms ? i checked the rear and they are 25W and 4ohm.. Only reason I'm changing is because the passenger door speaker is blown.
 

m3incorp

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Are you using the Kenwood XR600-6DSP.? I'm thinking of getting it to begin replacing my B&O system.

No capacitor or bass blocker needed since I am using a DSP which sets all the crossover points for each speaker independently.
 

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StangTime

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This is what I ordered to fix the hideous 9 speaker system:

Hertz MP165P.3 2-way 3ohm system. Note that there is a MP165.3 that is 4ohm but I recommend the P version to extract a little more power from the amp.
MPK165P3_l_1.jpg


Hertz HCP 5D 5 channel amp w/active crossovers.
M_HCP-5D_PROSP_ridotto.jpg


My plan is to mount the Hertz tweeters where the 3.5" midrange was with a custom adapter and disconnect the factory tweeters in the A pillars.
The speakers will be wired full active (one speaker per amplifier channel). No rear speakers and no center channel because they do nothing but destroy good imaging and sound quality. The HCP 5D has a healthy dedicated subwoofer channel that can deliver 280W into 2ohms. I can simply add a sealed subwoofer box or infinite baffle mounted subs at anytime in the future. I am debating on adding a DSP right away or not because with this amplifier I can configure the whole system without one and add it later to EQ and time align if I like.
 

m3incorp

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I've got the B&O, so not quiet as hideous, but definitely not great. I do plan to upgrade all the speakers but will only get rid of center and tune all other locations for better sound distribution. I have to go with a DSP/AMP and it looks like the Kenwood is the only one available.

This is what I ordered to fix the hideous 9 speaker system:

Hertz MP165P.3 2-way 3ohm system. Note that there is a MP165.3 that is 4ohm but I recommend the P version to extract a little more power from the amp.
MPK165P3_l_1.jpg


Hertz HCP 5D 5 channel amp w/active crossovers.
M_HCP-5D_PROSP_ridotto.jpg


My plan is to mount the Hertz tweeters where the 3.5" midrange was with a custom adapter and disconnect the factory tweeters in the A pillars.
The speakers will be wired full active (one speaker per amplifier channel). No rear speakers and no center channel because they do nothing but destroy good imaging and sound quality. The HCP 5D has a healthy dedicated subwoofer channel that can deliver 280W into 2ohms. I can simply add a sealed subwoofer box or infinite baffle mounted subs at anytime in the future. I am debating on adding a DSP right away or not because with this amplifier I can configure the whole system without one and add it later to EQ and time align if I like.
 

m3incorp

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I ordered a Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 mono amplifier and amp wiring kit. I'll pull the signal from the subwoofer wires that are already in the rear and see how the JL Audio subwoofer in the stock enclosure sounds with a lot more watts thrown at them, vs the 40-50 stock watts. If it does as I need it to do, I will leave it at that for the subwoofer; if not, then I have a Kicker Comp Loaded Enclosure with 12" Subwoofer, like I have in the Fusion that will do the job for bass. If I go that route, the enclosure won't take up too much space, but I will install it so that I can easily remove it when needed and plug back into the JL Audio subwoofer. It's a shame, but I imagine eventually I will install the Kenwood XR600-6DSP and replace all of the stock speakers from the B&O system; if only they would not have speakers throughout the car that have different ohms, especially the ones with the not so common 2 ohms..... makes me wonder what the engineer was thinking.
 

DrZed

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Hey all... I got confused here. Have a 2021 Mustang Sync3 with 9 speakers.
What powerbass did some use? I think I heard some of you used the woofer only as the upgrade (leaving the mid and tweeter in the door alone), so only the front door bottom speaker:

1) Front bottom: https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/prod...cement-Component-Speaker-System-Ford-Lincoln/

(that says 4 ohm??)

2) Rear deck: https://powerbassusa.com/us/en/prod...Coaxial-OEM-Replacement-Speaker-FORD-Lincoln/

(again says 4 ohm)

Could those who have done this clarify plz?
 
 




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