Best practices/gotchas for install of Steeda suspension upgrades?

[mikes2017gt]

I'm preparing for a major overhaul of my GT non-PP suspension with all-Steeda parts, and I'm looking for best practices or known "gotchas." I've wrenched before; shocks/springs/head gasket/water pump/brakes/etc. but I'm no "semi-pro mechanic."

As I've never worked on a Mustang before I figure the time to ask if there's anything to look out for is now, not when the car is in pieces. Tool-wise, pretty much the only thing I don't own is welding equipment...and if I need that now, I really screwed something up.

I already have the Steeda lo-pro jacking rails installed, so that will make getting the car on jackstands that much easier.

Here's a list of what's going in:

Front/Rear Swaybar Kit 555-1017
Billet Swaybar Mounts 555-8149
Pro-Action Shocks/Struts 555-8150
Billet Rear Shock Mounts 555-8151
Adjustable Bumpstop Kit 555-4445
G-Trac K-Member Brace 555-5532
Camber Plates 555-8139
Sport Springs Progressive 555-8210
Subframe Bushing Supports 555-4437
IRS Subframe Alignment Kit 555-4438
Billet Vertical Links 555-4121
IRS Subframe Support Braces 555-5754
Adjustable Rear Toe Links 555-4120

It's pretty much a complete suspension overhaul...and I was planning on "only lowering the car" but you know how that goes.

Is there a particular order I should follow when installing all of this? Some things make sense, like installing the subframe bushing supports when installing the subframe alignment kit; all that has to be apart anyway to get either one installed, so makes sense to do both at the same time. I'm looking for any best-practices or things to look out for. I also bought the Mustang Handling Pack Fastener Kit just in case I strip or lose a bolt/nut. Compared to the cost of the parts (and the car) it's cheap insurance IMO. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-FR3-FASTENA

I've yet to look for an alignment shop, but if anyone knows of a good place either in San Antonio or Austin, TX, I'd appreciate any recommendations.
Thanks very much.

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[jbailer]

Wow! That's quite the list and will be a HUGE improvement! I've done almost everything on the list myself and the best advice I can give is be patient, prepare for it to take quite some time and most of all follow the instructions. I think most problems happen when people they try to rush, skip instructions and think they just know how to do it. The time saved initially is spent 10x trying to chase down issues from a rushed job.

Make sure you have good quality o-rings to hold the bump stops. Use every bit of energy suspension lube. It's already a very long list but I would recommend putting the FRPP Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assy in there while you're doing the adjustable toe link.

 

[MtnBiker]

For alignment shops I'd check out the local San Antonio S550 group on Facebook. Some solid recommendations there.

As for suspension install instructions and sequence I'd collect all the install instructions from your individual parts, print out the Ford Racing track pack install instructions and also print out the torque settings tables from the sticky on this tech sub-forum. Put it all into a binder and knock yourself out.

PM me if you want to borrow some 12" Race Ramps to clock bushings (the alignment shop can do it too although you'd need to walk them through each connector). I'm in SA too.

 

[MtnBiker]

It's already a very long list but I would recommend putting the FRPP Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assy in there while you're doing the adjustable toe link.

+1 on that!

 

[mikes2017gt]

Thanks guys. One of my mantras for doing anything is "If I don't have the time to do it right the first time, how will I have time to do it right the second time?"

I am planning on starting this first thing Sat morning (or maybe Fri night...) with the intention of having it buttoned-up by Sun night, to take it for an alignment first thing Mon morning. That's the plan, anyway!

What is meant by "clock bushings?" Sorry, that term is new to me.

"Good quality O-rings for the bumpstops"...the Steeda shocks don't come with those? Is this something I need to buy separately?

I will check out the FRPP Knuckle to toe link bearing assy...I don't need a bearing press for that, do I?

And thanks for the offer of ramps, @MtnBiker . I should be OK with my jackstands and two floor jacks. Will definitely check out the San Antonio S550 FB page. Hopefully we can meet up one day.

*edit*
OK, the bearing is $65. That's not an issue. I'm pretty darn leery about pressed-in bearings, though. I have visions of having to remove the entire control arm and take it to someplace with a 50-ton press and they crack my LCA in three pieces.

 

[MtnBiker]

Thanks guys. One of my mantras for doing anything is "If I don't have the time to do it right the first time, how will I have time to do it right the second time?"

I am planning on starting this first thing Sat morning (or maybe Fri night...) with the intention of having it buttoned-up by Sun night, to take it for an alignment first thing Mon morning. That's the plan, anyway!

What is meant by "clock bushings?" Sorry, that term is new to me.

"Good quality O-rings for the bumpstops"...the Steeda shocks don't come with those? Is this something I need to buy separately?

I will check out the FRPP Knuckle to toe link bearing assy...I don't need a bearing press for that, do I?

And thanks for the offer of ramps, @MtnBiker . I should be OK with my jackstands and two floor jacks. Will definitely check out the San Antonio S550 FB page. Hopefully we can meet up one day.

*edit*
OK, the bearing is $65. That's not an issue. I'm pretty darn leery about pressed-in bearings, though. I have visions of having to remove the entire control arm and take it to someplace with a 50-ton press and they crack my LCA in three pieces.

Clocking bushings:

The LCA in particular has a pretty stout rubber bushing. You want full weight on the suspension (4 post or race ramps) and then you'll reset all of your rubber suspension bushing to the lowered ride height with the new springs. Look up the "clock your bushings" threads and you'll get a listing of all the bolts you want to loosen and then re-torque. This will keep you from having some of the "floaty" and uneven ride height issues. Will also keep the rubber from pre-mature wear or splitting from the extra stress.

O-rings:

I think Steeda includes them now. If not, easy to find.

Toe Bearings:

The Ford Racing track pack instructions show how to replace the toe bushings with the FR spherical bearings. Ball joint press. Really a matter of the cup sizes for the pusher/receiver sides. Pretty easy on my '15.

 

[BmacIL]

Thanks guys. One of my mantras for doing anything is "If I don't have the time to do it right the first time, how will I have time to do it right the second time?"

I am planning on starting this first thing Sat morning (or maybe Fri night...) with the intention of having it buttoned-up by Sun night, to take it for an alignment first thing Mon morning. That's the plan, anyway!

What is meant by "clock bushings?" Sorry, that term is new to me.

"Good quality O-rings for the bumpstops"...the Steeda shocks don't come with those? Is this something I need to buy separately?

I will check out the FRPP Knuckle to toe link bearing assy...I don't need a bearing press for that, do I?

And thanks for the offer of ramps, @MtnBiker . I should be OK with my jackstands and two floor jacks. Will definitely check out the San Antonio S550 FB page. Hopefully we can meet up one day.

*edit*
OK, the bearing is $65. That's not an issue. I'm pretty darn leery about pressed-in bearings, though. I have visions of having to remove the entire control arm and take it to someplace with a 50-ton press and they crack my LCA in three pieces.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44129&highlight=clock

The knuckle bearing is straightforward and the bushing currently in there is pressed in too.

 

[SidewaysMike]

Plus the knuckle bearing is FREE.99 (not $65) since you take them out of the stock toe links you're replacing

 

[MiDiablo]

This is just a quick list of my Pro Tips from spring installs:

Make sure you have a 21mm deep well socket. Needed to use on the front struts main top hat bolt.

Make sure you have shorty 13mm & 15mm socket. Almost everything under the car is going to allow you to get to it with an impact gun, if you are using a shorty socket!

Make sure you have deep well 18mm socket and an 18mm wrench. Need these for the toe link gimmick on the front struts.

Make sure you have a body panel clip removal tool (small plastic fork looking gimmick). Need this to remove the damn annoying plastic clips holding the lines to the struts.

Get 2 sets of spring compressors (depending on the spring you go with, you may need [4] to compress the lowering spring; and I always use 3 on the OEM ones).

When installing the spring compressors, make sure the rods exit outside the strut perch.

When doing the rear springs, loosen all (4) main IRS bolts, leaving them just barely threaded (2 or 3 turns) - then pick a side and remove them and the brake line off the chassis and the strut from the upper mounts and then put a jack under the spring perch to lower it far enough to get the rear springs out. Then button this side back up, everything except the 2 main bolts to the cradle. Go ahead and leave those like 2 or 3 turns in. Then do the other side as above. Then finally go back and tighten all 4 cradle bolts. Waaaaaaaay easier this way.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Thanks for all the tips, [MENTION=22794]MiDiablo[/MENTION]. Very much appreciated.

I've got the tools covered. Only thing I didn't have was a ball joint press tool and I bought this kit yesterday. I hope it has the cup size I need.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C31XEA2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What's got me nervous is the IRS subframe. I'm a little concerned about unbolting it to get the alignment kit etc in there. Just don't want it to come crashing down on me. :headbonk:

 

[MiDiablo]

Put the jackstands forward of the IRS subframe on the car. Then use your jack underneath the IRS subframe; we've done this w/o issue so far.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Put the jackstands forward of the IRS subframe on the car. Then use your jack underneath the IRS subframe; we've done this w/o issue so far.

Did you drop one side of the subframe at a time, or did you just remove all the bolts and drop it down as a unit? Never done this before, and want to have some idea of what I'm doing before I unbolt 500+ pounds of rear suspension.

 

[jbailer]

Drop 1 side at a time but to do that, you'll need to loosen the other side. It's a VERY good idea to keep a jack under the suspension at all times when doing this. I start on one side, take a bolt out and put it back in 3 turns. Take the other bolt out and do the same. Then move to the other side and take both bolts out. Then lower the suspension as needed. When done on that side put those 2 bolts back in 3 full turns and take the other 2 out.

 

[MiDiablo]

Drop 1 side at a time but to do that, you'll need to loosen the other side. It's a VERY good idea to keep a jack under the suspension at all times when doing this. I start on one side, take a bolt out and put it back in 3 turns. Take the other bolt out and do the same. Then move to the other side and take both bolts out. Then lower the suspension as needed. When done on that side put those 2 bolts back in 3 full turns and take the other 2 out.

Exactly this. This is the same routine that we follow.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Thanks, [MENTION=15518]jbailer[/MENTION]. That's the kind of guidance I need...hand holding. LOL! Dropping one side at a time will be the perfect time to install the subframe bushing kit. Two birds with one stone.

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