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Best Long Block for FI?

beefcake

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really comes down to power goals, on doing pistson and rods, vs sleeving the block

if you want to make over probably 900 wheel long term, i'd sggest sleeving it

:)

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Bullitt69

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I can't imagine wanting more than 900whp for a street car. But, I said that about 700whp damn it's a slippery slope no matter how you look at it.

IDK, having an OEM Product like the the Aluminator might ultimately increase the resale value vs. a rebuild.
 

GreenS550

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He had OPG/CS installed (he has another thread on the forum). I'm guessing something wasn't installed properly which caused the chain to fail. I agree that 93 octane isn't he best on these engines, but it should have been ok at low boost.
I have had 5 supercharged Mustangs. The only one that had the engine go was one that I had OPG/CS installed in. It also made the lowest power. Never doing OPGs again. Really good tuners and really good mechanics are very rare.
 

GreenS550

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@GreenS550 what was the cause from the OPG?
The car never ran right after it was done along with the supercharger that was put on etc. from the get-go I thought they didn't time the cams right or something to do with it. My 2018 is my fourth supercharged coyote, and it's my belief that the oil pump gears are a function of either extreme power 800 horsepower at the wheels or something like that or bouncing off the rev limiter or the two step. I know that the 18 and up are supposed to have a much better damper. But I won't open my engine unless I do it myself after dealing with a hack. If my motor blows it's a fully forged bottom end from MMR or someone like that or I might just build it myself like I did back when I was in my twenties 40 years ago
 

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Jackson1320

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I can't imagine wanting more than 900whp for a street car. But, I said that about 700whp damn it's a slippery slope no matter how you look at it.

IDK, having an OEM Product like the the Aluminator might ultimately increase the resale value vs. a rebuild.
I wouldn’t worry about resale value. I would never buy that car, I would never buy any aftermarket boosted car or built engine car. Even if it’s not true that just tells me that car has had a rough life
 
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Bullitt69

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Good Point Jackson1320...

GreenS550, this is my 3'rd Mustang, first time with a Coyote. All three have had FI installed.

Maybe I fell for all the hype about the stocker OPG's/CS's being shit, and well - since it's a manual car believed it would be good insurance especially since the upper RPM range is where that tachometer would be moving the fastest.

The shop where I had my work done is well known and respected in my part of the world, so it's really hard to tell if it was installer error or just a weak engine from the get go. Calling around, it seems there's quite a lot of failures associated with aftermarket OPG installs which is surprising.

Can't imagine there are too many enthusiasts in the U.P. Bob.
(I mean, it's truly Truck Country that far north - I have a camp in Grand Marais and I'm also very familiar with the western side) Not too many places nearby to have specialized work done, I'm sure you needed to head south for specialized work!

This is my first go around with this, I do appreciate everyone's input - at least I have some time to think about it with the season over here anyway.

From what I'm seeing / reading here and other places, over 900whp you need to make some pricey upgrades.
 

Jackson1320

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Good Point Jackson1320...

GreenS550, this is my 3'rd Mustang, first time with a Coyote. All three have had FI installed.

Maybe I fell for all the hype about the stocker OPG's/CS's being shit, and well - since it's a manual car believed it would be good insurance especially since the upper RPM range is where that tachometer would be moving the fastest.

The shop where I had my work done is well known and respected in my part of the world, so it's really hard to tell if it was installer error or just a weak engine from the get go. Calling around, it seems there's quite a lot of failures associated with aftermarket OPG installs which is surprising.

Can't imagine there are too many enthusiasts in the U.P. Bob.
(I mean, it's truly Truck Country that far north - I have a camp in Grand Marais and I'm also very familiar with the western side) Not too many places nearby to have specialized work done, I'm sure you needed to head south for specialized work!

This is my first go around with this, I do appreciate everyone's input - at least I have some time to think about it with the season over here anyway.

From what I'm seeing / reading here and other places, over 900whp you need to make some pricey upgrades.
You can get a new short block and Mahle power pack drop in piston kit for around $2700 and be comfortable around 1k whp. That’s pretty good because the parts are about $2500
 

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I'd like to add that there's this persistent myth or misrepresentation out there when cars make big power on "stock" motors. Many times, it's done with a huge correction factor (meaning the motor didn't actually make that amount of power and torque, but it WOULD have made that much power and torque under standardized conditions).

The REAL loads on a motor under way less than ideal conditions is MUCH less, than the loads on a motor running at SAE STP and humidity.

The corrected number might be 1000 hp and 750 ft-lbs of torque, but that's not what the motor is actually feeling in many cases.
 

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I sold my Procharged SLB '13 last month to a guy that dyno'd it and then did OPG's. It was making 775whp and he sent me a pic of the factory gears.... they looked perfectly fine after 50k/mi.

Anecdotal evidence, but evidence none the less.
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