Belly pan removal with HP splitter

[MACHtobers Very Own]

Anybody done it? I thought it would be easy but after removing the hex bolts and reviewing people online who needed to order one I can't for life of me figure out how to remove it after taking the bolts out. )= user error?

searched and found a few people who are replacing there's but nothing of actual removal process. Some threads point to maybe just removing front bumper and it goes with it?

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[Rob_R]

I have removed the belly and re-installed on my HP.

1) Remove the lower splitter - this is a combination of ~10 bolts and plastic rivets. You may want to record which holes had which fastener for re-installation. Some rivets are in a deep well so they can be a pain. I drilled the center of the rivets out. The front of the belly pan is inserted into the upper splitter so it won't drop.

2) Remove the ~ 5 bolts holding the belly pan on. There is a large Christmas tree plastic fastener in the center of the rear of the belly pan. Leave that in place until the end. There are also push pins around the brake duct area.

3) Remove large tree fastener mentioned above. The complete pan is now loose. Pull the pan toward the rear of the car to clear the upper splitter.

4) When re-installing the belly pan, insert the front edge of the pan above the upper splitter and re-install the rear Christmas tree fastener. This will hold the pan in place while you install the pan screws. Now go install that lower splitter!

 

[MACHtobers Very Own]

I have removed the belly and re-installed on my HP.

1) Remove the lower splitter - this is a combination of ~10 bolts and plastic rivets. You may want to record which holes had which fastener for re-installation. Some rivets are in a deep well so they can be a pain. I drilled the center of the rivets out. The front of the belly pan is inserted into the upper splitter so it won't drop.

2) Remove the ~ 5 bolts holding the belly pan on. There is a large Christmas tree plastic fastener in the center of the rear of the belly pan. Leave that in place until the end. There are also push pins around the brake duct area.

3) Remove large tree fastener mentioned above. The complete pan is now loose. Pull the pan toward the rear of the car to clear the upper splitter.

4) When re-installing the belly pan, insert the front edge of the pan above the upper splitter and re-install the rear Christmas tree fastener. This will hold the pan in place while you install the pan screws. Now go install that lower splitter!

Well sheesh.... I don't know if that or just taking bumper off is the better course )=

 

[Rob_R]

Well sheesh.... I don't know if that or just taking bumper off is the better course )=

I am not familiar with removing the front bumper, but if your goal is to remove the belly pan, then you still need to remove the belly pan fasteners I mentioned in item 2 above. I don't think you want to wrestle the bumper and the belly pan at the same time as the belly pan is unwieldly by itself just because of it's size. The belly pan is lightweight, but it is big.

 

[MiamiGT350]

I am not very familiar with Mach 1s, but if it's anything like a GT350, you'll likely find this video helpful.

If you decide to remove your front bumper, make sure you get all the bolts along the top of the bumper (and the 2 small hidden ones on the sides). Also, there are a couple of bolts inside the wheel well behind the headlights.

It works really well to use 4 buckets and slide the bumper away from the car. I also recommend you get a moving pad which ensures you aren't scuffing up anything.

At the base of the front bumper where it meets the splitter, there are bolts that hold the belly pan to the bumper. Then some more at outter edges All of these bolts -- at least on the GT350 -- are hidden under the splitter.

 

[MAGS1]

It works really well to use 4 buckets and slide the bumper away from the car. I also recommend you get a moving pad which ensures you aren't scuffing up anything.

A detailing stool or a creeper works well too. My creeper is padded as well, so no scuffs on the lower part of the bumper

 

[MAGS1]

Not sure if the Mach bumper is similar to a GT or a Shelby in the way it’s attached to the fenders, but if it’s similar to a GT it’s not terrible, just tedious. A good amount of screws and push pins plus you have to pull the fender liner back to get at the two bolts on each side that hold the fender to the bumper. The fender liners are fairly rigid so unless you’ve pulled them back a bunch, they don’t bend very easily. Don’t forget to unplug your headlights before you pull the bumper off the car too, the harnesses aren’t very long.

Pulled my bumper off a little over a year ago to swap out lower grilles. Whole thing took a couple hours.

 

[MACHtobers Very Own]

I just really thought it would be

A couple of screws and BAM it drops down.

One can only dream )= drilling out rivets just seems a bit funky when most stuff is non Destructive in the "take a part and put back together" process

 

[wingnutt]

I just really thought it would be

A couple of screws and BAM it drops down.

One can only dream )= drilling out rivets just seems a bit funky when most stuff is non Destructive in the "take a part and put back together" process

assuming the M1 is same as the 350s, thats only cause he separated the pan from the bumper. pulling the bumper isn’t all that hard, worst part is the two 7mm screws that hold the bumper to the fender unless you have tiny Subaru hands…if you know, you know 🥸

 

[MAGS1]

worst part is the two 7mm screws that hold the bumper to the fender 🥸

Definitely the biggest pain in the arse. The rest is just tedious with the other bolts and push pins.

 

[MiamiGT350]

One can only dream )= drilling out rivets just seems a bit funky when most stuff is non Destructive in the "take a part and put back together" process

No, there is no drilling of rivets. Those rivets keep the two layers of the splitter together.

 

[23GreenGremlin]

Since it hasn't been mentioned, when you are ready to pull down the belly pan off of the center Christmas tree fastener, wear safety goggles and be prepared for a dirt and rock shower. That pan catches more grit that you expect, and it will all pop loose on top of you.

 

[Crew4991]

A detailing stool or a creeper works well too. My creeper is padded as well, so no scuffs on the lower part of the bumper

I learned something today.
Had no clue what you meant by creeper lol. I looked it up and it is a rolling stool which is pretty handy but at first I was like, ah nah I'm good - don't need no creepy dude helping me.

 

[MAGS1]

I learned something today.
Had no clue what you meant by creeper lol. I looked it up and it is a rolling stool which is pretty handy but at first I was like, ah nah I'm good - don't need no creepy dude helping me.

LOL. Yeah kind of an old school term, my detailing stool converts to a creeper which is pretty handy

 

[Rob_R]

No, there is no drilling of rivets. Those rivets keep the two layers of the splitter together.

......and the plastic rivets and screws attach the belly pan to the top side of the upper splitter. So unless you plan on pulling the belly pan off with the front bumper, I would just remove those plastic rivets and steel screws to drop the lower splitter and then remove the belly pan after removing the 5 or 10 fasteners holding the belly pan on.

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