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Base or PP1?

Rapid Red

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If buying any extras over the PP1.......... FYI, you will get a lot more car going PP2 .

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MaskedRacerX

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I went with the Premium ( and not a PP ) mainly because I hate black rims I thought the 3.73 gear ratio was to quick of a shift in 1st gear YMMV
There's a bit of a difference in manual gearing 15-17 vs. 18-20, I think the 18+ cars really benefit from the 3.73 (more so than the previous earlier gen).
 

Zrussian13

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I went pp1 and love it. The wider tires and handling goodies make playing around in the car a breeze. Ride is still comfortable on long trips too.
 

Rock&Roll

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There's a bit of a difference in manual gearing 15-17 vs. 18-20, I think the 18+ cars really benefit from the 3.73 (more so than the previous earlier gen).
You might be right but I was talking about my decision in 2016. I test drove both 3.31 and 3.73 back then and i liked the 3.31 better. I didn't try the 18-20's so i dont know ?

Its all good tho :rockon:
 

MaskedRacerX

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You might be right but I was talking about my decision in 2016. I test drove both 3.31 and 3.73 back then and i liked the 3.31 better. I didn't try the 18-20's so i dont know ?

Its all good tho :rockon:
Yeah, that's why I clarified, since I saw you had a '16 in your profile :like: Though I had a '16 PP car, manual, and I thought the 3.73s were a __hoot__ :sunglasses:
 

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Elp_jc

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I drove a Bullit with MR today, and what an AWESOME suspension. Firm, but incredibly compliant in normal; wasn't expecting that level of ride. And you can transform it into a handling beast with sport (or track). And same thing with the AE. In quiet, it's minivan quiet. Ha ha. And in sport it sounds incredible: aggressive, refined, powerful, and deep all at the same time. And track is just bonkers angry. Ha ha. Some say the Bullitt had a special exhaust tuning. I kind of doubt that, but since it was just about perfect, and the weighted shift knob too, decided it's the one I'll get. Don't really care if black or green, so I have more to choose from. Can't wait until I can find and get the right one :D.

Finally, a Getrag is an incredible differential, and glad I'll finally have one. I thought it was perfect for a NA (non-turbo) V8. And I think 6th is just about perfect for that engine, since it turns 74 mph at 2K rpm, meaning around 111 mph at 3K rpm. Not high-strung at all, and also not too long, like most Vettes. Just about perfect IMO. And surprisingly, I liked the MT-82 shifter/tranny better than the Tremec TR6060 (and T56) on my Vettes. That was nice :D.
 

ireminisce

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When I got my 19, I want PP2 but would have been happy with PP1. I have every intent of tracking this car once things normalize, and building up from there. The brakes are magnificent, having the larger radiator, and the torsen alone are worth it. But what really makes the biggest difference for me is the Magneride suspension. I drove a PP1 without and drove mine and you really dont realize how much work the MR puts in until you drive one without it. And there are also OEM and aftermarket tunes and tuners if you really want to dial into it.
Other than that, the wheels are nice but they look like every other PP1 wheels out there and they arent that wide. I really like the spoiler also. For me, PP1 was worth it, but it depends on your use case.
 

Flyhalf

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I TT my pp1
Standard has a big issue.
Brakes. And the infamous reverse rotors.
Pp1 has a 6piston brakes. And normal geometry just this is worth the choice of pp1.
Torsen diff
And
Also the car tends to over heat so the bigger radiator helps.
Don't buy magnaride if u think u gonna modify suspension. It will be a waste lf money.
Have fun!
InstaSave.jpg
 

ice445

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I TT my pp1
Standard has a big issue.
Brakes. And the infamous reverse rotors.
Pp1 has a 6piston brakes. And normal geometry just this is worth the choice of pp1.
Torsen diff
And
Also the car tends to over heat so the bigger radiator helps.
Don't buy magnaride if u think u gonna modify suspension. It will be a waste lf money.
Have fun!
InstaSave.jpg
Care to elaborate on the reverse rotors?
 

Flyhalf

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Care to elaborate on the reverse rotors?
Sure
The base model has a 4 piston brakes in the front with smaller diameter rotors
Rotors are also "reversed" meaning the vents for cooiling are outside ( grey rotors pic ) instead of inside as normal ( gold rotors pic)

Pointing vents outward means that no air is getting through because the bumper and the rotation of the wheel "push " the air away.
While when inward the rotors receive way more air from under the car (another difference is pp1 has tunnel in the splitter that are targeting the rotors trhough a deflector to push more air into the brakes.
Many people have tried to make those brake working on the track.
It is not just impossible. It also dangerous. Cause when u are in a straight at 140 and u need to turn at 60 loosing the brakes is not nice :)
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WestCoast5.0

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PP1 isn't really a must-have unless you plan on road racing more than twice a year. It is a good package though.
 

MRGTX

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What are these lower body reinforcements that the PP cars come with?
 

BimmerDriver

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Good info here guys, thanks. I test drove a base GT a couple of years ago and couldn't pull the trigger. I decided to try again, and Saturday I drove a PP1 car. Now, if I was smart I'd drive them back-to-back, but my butt memory tells me that the PP1 suspension tuning is just more dialed-in, firmer yes but maybe a smidgen more compliant on small road imperfections? Of course, that could be just the difference in tires.

So I'm really leaning toward the PP1. Yes, I could buy a base and upgrade the suspension and brakes, but who is to say that I'm smarter and better at chassis development than the engineers at Ford? And the additional cooling, the diff and the gauges are nice as well. I was really impressed by it, and that was just on streets acting responsible. I suspect (and hope) that it will really shine on the track.

PP2 is too hard core for me, based on what I've read about it.
 

Bikeman315

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Good info here guys, thanks. I test drove a base GT a couple of years ago and couldn't pull the trigger. I decided to try again, and Saturday I drove a PP1 car. Now, if I was smart I'd drive them back-to-back, but my butt memory tells me that the PP1 suspension tuning is just more dialed-in, firmer yes but maybe a smidgen more compliant on small road imperfections? Of course, that could be just the difference in tires.

So I'm really leaning toward the PP1. Yes, I could buy a base and upgrade the suspension and brakes, but who is to say that I'm smarter and better at chassis development than the engineers at Ford? And the additional cooling, the diff and the gauges are nice as well. I was really impressed by it, and that was just on streets acting responsible. I suspect (and hope) that it will really shine on the track.

PP2 is too hard core for me, based on what I've read about it.
Now what you need to do is drive a car with MagneRide. That will really open your eyes.
 

GTP

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Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a S550 here soon, but in the future of the car I plan on TT'ing it and I was just wondering if the PP1 was even worth looking into buying just for modifications that it adds to the car if I plan on taking said car to the drag strip or just having it as a street car, would the PP1 be worth or should I just get base and add modifcations on my own time, or is it worth getting the PP1 and just adding supporting modifications needed.
PP1 isn't really a must-have unless you plan on road racing more than twice a year. It is a good package though.
@Calastrophe said "TT" and "drag strip". If drag strip is your thing, you would NOT want PP1. All those extras are meant for the road course, and will just add weight for the strip. You don't need a bigger radiator when you floor it for just 12 seconds. Or more bracing, or better brakes, etc. Save that money for items specific to drag racing.

What @WestCoast5.0 said: IMO, even ONE track day a year calls for the Performance Package. The car is stressed even in 20min sessions, and the PP1 just holds up better (and is safer).

I have 2019 GT with PP1 and Magneride. (I liked PP2 but I had to have that A10, plus I didn't like how the PP2 front wheels poke.) The only suspension change I made was to add CB005 cradle lockout, and swap the sway bars to GT350R. Perfect street manners, and very neutral at the track (square set of 275 PS4's on 9.5" all around).

EDIT: $5200 upcharge for PP1 is now shameful. It's not like the value of the standard parts taken off the car had no cost to Ford.
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